Dnk

http://www.kasthurimmc.com/tap-drill-chart.html

Are you sure about the thread pitches, i've never checked them but they don't sound right to me

Ok, what i'd do now. Check both the new & old stats are 82 C and they open and close, put them in a pan of boiling water and use pliers to lift out and you'll see them open and then shut as they cool. Once checked if the new one is okay re fit it, fill up your system and run the engine with the rad cap off, top up the rad to the filler neck, once the engine gets to normal temp the stat will open, pop the heater on full hot and top up the rad as the air comes out. Once the rad stops popping out air check the heater is nice and hot, keep checking the temp gauge on the dash while bringing the engine up to temp. Pop the rad cap on and fill the expansion tank to the max level, check this once the engine has cooled as it should drop as the coolant is drawn back into the rad. Once cool take the rad cap off and check the rad is full Keep an eye on the temp gauge during this process and if everything is okay it shouldn't overheat while you do this

Engine re build ?

When did you first get the problem, has it overheated on the rd whilst driving ?

Try taking the stat out and running it. Does the bottom hose from the rad get hot

When you say it gets very hot what do you mean exactly ? Is it actually reading high on the temp gauge in the dash

Just connect the outlet pipe to the inlet pipe so the diff oil is pumped round in a loop but not going to the cooler

Stay away from fibre glass as its a pain in the ass Stock with nice wheels and lowered a touch is the way to go

Toyota brake pads work just fine If not done recently i'd do a fluid change and a thorough inspection of the calipers when you have the pads out. Check the outer seals for splits or holes as this will let moister and dirt get down the side of the piston and cause them to seize. Check the pistons move in and out freely Spray tin brake cleaner (Halfords) and a tooth brush (Boots) work wonders to shift all the brake dust etc

Well i just checked AXA's t & c's and they won't cover any cat rated cars Each to there own but for me its a non starter

Use my UK spec reg if its any use, dealers i use get in the system with that L143 JFU

I have used them for radiator re cores and they have always done a very good, not had an intercooler done though, they could be worth giving a call and see what they say

I'd imagine the hissing is the coolant leak and advise you get it fixed rather than drive it, normal driving is as bad if you have a coolant leak as the water temp will still rise along with the pressure and you will just keep losing coolant. The mkiv has an aluminium alloy head and if overheated can warp and become scrap very quickly

I guess it depends on what you call white or perhaps blueish whitey grey even

White smoke i'd say was coolant rather than oil and the autobox relies on the ATF for it to work. Try the key in the passenger door unless you already have. The remote isn't possibly opening the doors due to the cars battery being flat

I'd check out where you stand insurance wise as some insurance comps wont cover Cat d's or c's. AXA who i've just insured my Landcruiser with wont Personally i wouldn't touch a cat c with a long stick but that's just me. Re sale value is massively reduced as well

http://www.readyrads.co.uk

If its the original rad its more than likely done its day, you could try removing the sensor and re fitting it with a new seal or sealer to rule that out before buying a new rad just in case its that.

Put them up for £300 and see where it goes.

5W-30 In the WSM

Don't do this on any car

Seems more appropriate

CV joint or diff perhaps if you have ruled out wheel bearing and sticky brake caliper

Bilsteins win hands down for me, over 100k on mine before a rear decided it wanted to retire. They can do track days too Speak to Chris Wilson as Toyota are £186 + vat each