Marty

When bitcoin runs altcoins get nailed relative to their btc value - alt usd figures are generally worked out from the btc/alt pair value, so if bitcoin goes 10% in a day and your alt is up 5% (usd) it's a bad trade, you're down 5% in bitcoin value. The cycle generally goes like this. Bitcoin runs, alts suffer - you don't want to be holding them. Once bitcoin tops and consolidates (like what its doing now), you want to be all over alts, the alt/btc pairs start to play catch up and you can really make strong profits. Eth is the leading indicator of the fabled alt season. High caps go first, then mid and lastly low caps and micro. Alt seasons are short lived, a few months, before bitcoin moves again. There's always exceptions to the rule but generally that's how it plays out. Like i've said previously, if you don't want to trade the cycles you should be holding at least 50% btc at all time, at least 20% eth and maybe some ltc. Rest in alts, that way you've got exposure to all the cycles. You don't need a lot of exposure to alts to make massive profits, never go all in them. They'll do -90% once the bear market returns, maybe -100% and never recover. Eth being the exception i'd say. Don't be surprised to see eth at $10k at the end of this bull market, which, if previous cycles are anything to go by, will conclude by the end of the year, This is an handy indicator to be aware of .. https://alternative.me/crypto/fear-and-greed-index/ Extreme greed - take profits, volatility due. Extreme fear - buy the blood.

Coinbase is the most user friendly and safest, fees are very high though. Binance is good, plenty of selection and low fees, has an app too, that's where i do most of my trading. It's been a crazy past month for the alts, plenty of multiple x'ers.

Well done Dunk, glad you made bank Although XRP is always good for a pump, even now and will probably deadcat bounce, i'd personally shift a bit of focus to Ethereum and litecoin, too much uncertainty with XRP now, poor risk reward. Neither Eth or Ltc have broken their previous ATH and it's only a matter of time, imo of course. DeFi is driven by eth and only makes up 5% of total marketcap of alts, i expect it to go much higher during '21. The polkadot ecosystem, and it's associated alts, is also something worth looking into. Another very good bet for '21.

With regards to exchanges, stick with the well known high volume ones, coinbase, bitstamp, binance, bittrex, kracken. The likes of plus500, etoro etc are CFD, you don't own what you're buying. XRP is such a shitcoin, sorry dunk, no offense, but the notion that the bitcoin rally is driven by people exiting their XRP position is ludicrous. Not only do the volume profiles not match, but if that was the case XRP would've hit zero well before BTC broke it's previous ATH. Personally i wouldn't touch XRP with 3 bargepoles glued together. The rally is driven by institutional investors, they've amassed a huge amount of bitcoin in the past few months, retail is mostly still on the sidelines according to google trends. If you guys are going to invest, it should be primarily in bitcoin, it's number 1 and always will be, without question. Should make up at least 50% of your portfolio, then Ethereum and Litecoin making up another, say, 30%, leaving around 20% for alts. Dot, rune, etc. Focus on newer alts rather than legacy alts which have too much previous price action and too many bagholders waiting to dump at the first sign of a pump. Also look into DeFi, it's the next big thing and likely to be the main focus of the next alt season, assuming there is one. The goal is to gain more bitcoin and ethereum, use alt/btc and alt/eth charts, not alt/usd charts. If you're up in usd but down in btc you've failed

Well if the click isn't from the starter you can rule that out Good suggestion by Pudsey

Personally, i would doubt it was your relay. Your starter motor is clicking, right? Means the relay is working. You could take the top off the relay and have a look at the contacts to see if they are blackened, but it's not something i've heard of being a common problem before, unlike the starter contacts. Give the starter a little tap with something, normally gets it going. Don't think i'd bother buying a whole new starter either when the contact replacement job is so straightforward I will say, i've had two supras where the starter motor contacts have failed. But they've never just completely failed so the car wouldn't start again, it always started off as an intermittent problem with starting, that got worse over time. The replacement starter, was it an OEM one?

Does sound like the starter motor to me, although seeing as you had one fairly recently it would be unusual for it to pack in so soon. They normally last a decade or so. The repair is fairly straightforward, assuming you have a good trolley jack and some axle stands. There is even a how to guide on here somewhere. The solenoid contacts are the point of failure, you can buy replacements from toyota for around £30ish, takes an hour or two to do.

Any idea which adaptor you are using bud? Thanks mate. Have those settings in Still nothing. Tried with 2 adaptors on two different vvti supras with no joy. Which adaptor are you using?

Thanks for the answer bud, from what i have googled, it is j-obd2, the reason i ask is plenty of people have actually got it working with a cheap ass elm327 bluetooth adaptor and the torque pro app with added code in the advanced section. I'm not sure if the new elm adaptors running a higher firmware are the problem. Tempted to just buy a jobd2 reader and be done with it tbh.

Has anyone had any joy connecting one of these Elm327 adaptors to their facelift cars? I've got 2 different adaptors, one with elm firmware 1.5 and the other 2.1, no matter what i do i cannot get either to connect. I'm using the torque pro app with the additional settings inputted in to the advanced section, still nothing. Not sure where i'm going wrong? I don't have any issues with the car, would just like to get it set up should i do at some point. TIA

I've got a costco one, pretty much exactly same design just different branding. Overall they're good and far better than the cheap halfords type 2tonners, although a couple of criticisms... They don't fit under the sides of the supra unless you drive the car onto wooden blocks first. They're bloody heavy to lug around.

I've got a slight hankering for a 997 turbo I also really like the alfa giulia quad but depreciation costs put me off that one.

I miss Ewan, LBM and Michael

They do, jap spec don't. There's no adverse effects to not having the sensor fitted. It is normally tied out the way when the car is bpu'd anyway.

A jap spec second cat will fit a uk spec, it'll also likely pass with just the one fitted, most do. Chances are slim you'd find a uk spec first cat, they're like hens teeth - i threw mine in the bin after i sold the car

There is always this method too...

I've got the full gearbox manual, scanned from somewhere. Attached are all the part numbers with prices at the time. Unfortunately some are fairly hard to make out. If you're nice to me i'll upload the whole lot:d

The USA is the difference i'd say. They never had access to skylines straight off the production line like they did the supra. The liners are now at the age where they are importable to the US, so they are being gobbled up by them, the prices reflect that.

https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:Du5tp-9DqnkJ:https://www.platinumautos.co.uk/used-toyota-supra-princes-risborough-buckinghamshire-2626117+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=uk

I did a car vx one the other day and there was sod all on there of any interest for my supra. No mileage history, import pics, etc. The only thing i learnt was it was imported into the uk in 2003.

The stitched ones from interior innovations look pretty nice. https://interior-innovations.com/product-category/1993-5-1998-toyota-supra-mkiv/

Works fine for me? Although i am using my laptop.

I have a pre facelift clock wiring diagram if you need it. Clock.pdf

Steves old car http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?341388-1996-Single-Turbo-6-speed

Guys, enough. If you click on each others profiles there is an ignore option. Click it.