Tricky-Ricky

A turbo d N/A running lean is not an encouraging statement, could have det damage, i would say your better off just waiting for the right buyer.

Dont agree with the valve seat that Morphus was suggesting, a valve seating that badly would have resulted in a much lower compression reading, and as for any valve or seat debris going through the pump i really don't see how as anything would have passed through the exhaust port. The fact that your now saying that you could hear a slight tapping sound even before the FMS went leads me to think that maybe something was starting to fail, so given that the oil pump pick up was partially blocked i would hazard a guess that oil flow/pressure was restricted to the mains and big ends so perhaps a shell has picked up or spun and failed, i am surprised that the mechanic did not check for crank end float and main and big end play when he replaced the pump, especially since you had mentioned a slight knocking sound, its easy enough to do with the sump off.

Not really enough to worry about, piston slap on a std engine would be unlikely the noise sounds half engine speed to me so if it doesn't prove to be cam or ancillary belt/tensioner, or contact with a cover it may be worth pulling the cam covers and check that it hasn't spat a lifter shim, although again unlikely, and also worth checking that the cam timing is correct after the experienced mechanic had had the crank pulley off he would have needed to ensure the engine was re timed correctly.

Loosing a liter depending if it was full to start should be fine and no danger of starving bearings of oil, the "can see oil pumping through filler cap" is rather worrying as looking for oil there is not going reveal anything other than you will always see oil in the top end unless its dry, certainly not a positive check of oil flow, did the oil pressure idiot light go out when he checked? yet another reason for fitting an oil pressure gauge. The fact that the motor was not making odd noises before the mechanic fitted the oil pump would be a good reason alone that you should take it back to them for further investigation.

Your not having a good time of it fella, only just seen this, i know that this all started with the FMS but did you ever have very low oil level as a result, as otherwise a cant see it being big end or other bearings, since you trust your mechanic i wont ask did he fit the oil pump correctly or us too much silicone gasket Anyway as already said have all the belts, pulleys etc been checked, and have the belt covers been fitted properly have seen similar on other cars where something is contacting the cover, i presume he never removed the cam covers?

No testing needed fella, your worrying too much, you will get various recommendations as to what oil to put in the motor, as everyone will have their own idea as to whats best, some because some tuner recommended it some because they understand the engine, My interest was mostly based on how the oil system handles the higher viscosity oils that seem to be the favorite these days, as i have said all along just put in some known make 10w40 semi or fully synthetic and change every 6k miles/six months and don't worry, my only must have recommendations are an oil pressure gauge and oil temperature gauge especially since you have already become paranoid due to the FMS failure, which is understandable, after mine i also fitted a super bright LED to the oil level indicator, which is what saved my engine.

If its Titan or PHR the only difference is that they claim to be std but ported, but this can only increase flow if the corresponding oil galleries are opened up as well, and AFAIK they still use the std PRV springs so shouldn't produce any more pressure, which isn't always a good thing as i outlined earlier. My pump was PHR which at that point was not even ported, just the excess oil drain enlarged, and they are supposed to be fettled and parts matched, but mine was locked up solid when it arrived and had to be dismastled and rechecked to get it to turn smoothly, so IMO a std pump and open the drain is all that's needed.

Thanks Greg, that very similar to the pressures i was getting using a 10w40, although i have never seen sustained pressures much over 100psi which is what i think the std PRV is set at, 116 to 130 seems a little excessive.

Thanks Greg, so 72 to 100PSI but at what sort of RPM?

You see that's what i have a problem with, i was not aware that any decent fully synthetic of any grade would take any higher temps, AFAIK they all are pretty capable of dealing with higher temps than mineral anyway, i ran a semi synthetic 10w40 in my single and never saw any temps over 117C and the oil was capable of dealing with 130c with no problem, now that temp was recorded with no oil cooler fitted, OK it was road work but occasionally driven hard, once a cooler was fitted i never saw more than 110c. Now going on the premises that thicker oil can deal with higher temps better without thinning what is a 10w50 or 10w60 max temp range? as all synthetic oils are meant to take much higher temps before breaking down, so what the advantage of going higher viscosity as in theory all grades of that type should have the same resistance to shear and temps, we all know that oil thinning can lead to lower oil pressures but as the 2JZ pump is more than capable of providing a decent pressure (even when fooked as mine proved) so why the need for thicker? as i said all i can see is the PRV working overtime and more load on the pump especially at higher RPM. Anyone care to give their oil pressure and temps at higher loading/RPM and the grade of oil used, just in the interests of discussion and to get a clearer picture?

I don't agree with the use of two and three viscosity's over std just because the motor is BPU or single, i would like to know just what peoples reason for using those grades other than my tuner recommended it, I have no problem with going 10w40 rather than 10w30 but why go so thick, even with a big single the RPM is generally not increased, and IMO all it does is put extra strain on the oil pump and PRV as its harder to pump and will result in the PRV opening a lot of the time, and not to mention the extra strain on the pump rotors and crank drive.

Hows the USA and if i remember correctly how is the Aviation career going?

I would agree, despite the insurance company insuring it without the cat if it came to a claim i am pretty sure its an instant get out for them as without its classed as unroadworthy vehicle in the eyes of the law therefore not insurable, so they would just claim it was an over site and not honor the claim.

Looks like oil smoke does it smell like burnt oil, with that amount its got to be turbo seals, looks very similar to when my seals failed.

LOL don't know what big single you have driven but if you didn't find it faster than BPU there was something wrong with it, and it shouldn't feel much different to drive apart from the power delivery.

Smoke on idle or overrun will likely be turbo seal.

Yes the strainer could be one of the causes of the oil pump wear as already said, and the simple fact that it could have restricted the flow would be another, the fact that there where contaminates in the oil and sump is a bad sign and as mentioned the strainer is just that its for larger particles, so anything that gets into the sump be it particles of metal from worn bearings etc or any other contaminate will first have to pass through the oil pump at least once before the filter could stop it, and if maintenance was not great in the past the filter could have been blocked and as it has a bypass anything could just get recirculated. As for the oil there is no problem with using the Quantum oil, although i would be thinking about going to a 10w40 now your BPU, most go to at least that grade but its not essential, however given the possibility that your engine may have been neglected in the past it could as a result have slightly larger bearing clearance as a result, so going one grade more viscus wouldn't hurt and may help if the resulting oil pressure is slightly low as a result. On a side note what happened with the AFR gauge? you never updated the post and it may be of benefit to others.

Doesn't that kind of defeat the object of welding larger breathers in as it still uses the same dia as std, mind you not that IMO the engine needs them unless there is stupid blow by, but they do look good.

Was the replacement master cylinder a genuine and correct one? other than that i suspect there is still air in the system.

They should be comparable being synthetic based, its just mineral that you shouldn't mix with synthetic, never heard of any hot spot scenario.

EGTs are directly related to AFRs as a richer mix will lower EGTs, so as long as its doesn't go lean at max boost pressures and load it should in theory be fine, the restrictor will be far less restrictive than a cat so shouldn't be an issue, valve an ignition timing will play a far larger part in raising/lowering EGTs after AFRs, but as std shouldn't cause any issues. I fitted an EGT gauge tom mine as soon as i went BPU and found nothing to high, then went hybrid turbos and fitted WI and EGTs where never anywhere near high.

Couldn't actually find the gauge number you list, but looking at the others they are not wide-band, so i would just sell it on and buy Innovate or AEM and get a lambda boss welded into the exhaust to take a wideband sensor, then your set up for any future mods and can know exactly if AFRs are good. https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products.php https://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/gauges/wideband-uego-air-fuel-gauges/x-series-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge

I couldn't find any reference to it on Google ether, i suppose its just possible that its a gauge sold separately and you have to add the wide-band controller and sensor, can you post up a link, that way we can give you a definitive answer.

If you want to fit a decent wide-band AFR gauge then fit Innovate or AEM, having what you call the best boost controller and other ancillaries is fine but all that matters is the AFRs, most BPU motors are usually fine because the ECU will run the injectors at 100% duty cycle when over original peak boost and/or WOT so in theory there should be enough fuel to keep AFRs within safe area, personally i always fit one, and since you have now spent all that money on your motor i wouldn't be skimping on a couple of hundred quid more and being sure the motor is safe.

If it doesn't come with its own wide-band sensor, its unlikely to be wide-band, and so if narow-band its practically useless and not worth fitting, as all it will do is tell you if its rich or weak, and not by how much, and that is only during open loop, the rest of the time it will just fluctuate from rich to weak as the ECU reads the std lambda sensor.