garethr

"Overdrive" is just 4th gear. The O/D switch changes from 4th to 3rd and back again. If O/D is on, the gearbox will automatically change into 4th.

You pointed that out just so you could do a Frankie Howerd impression, didn't you.

I think the benefits can be gauged by the fact that Toyota used it on the V8 Soarer/SC, then dropped it for the Celsior/LS, on the Mk 1 Aristo but not on the Mk4 Supra, and on the Mk3 Supra/early Chaser family, but not on the Soarer/later Chaser. It didn't take them long to realise that the hydraulic motor, associated pipes, and an ECU were just a little over-complicated as a way of blowing air through a radiator... Evidently, it was a solution looking for a problem.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?233707-Project-Supracharger

Have you tried any of the companies that rewind stators, such as Westcountry Windings in Essex?

You should still have 1st, 3rd, and 4th (O/D) with the solenoids disconnected. Autobox_Troubleshooting.pdf

KYB (Kayaba) shocks are about £55 each.

The 1UZ is also all alloy. It's the 2UZ that has an iron block.

Craig at Dyno Torque did a Supra a few years ago http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?222367-ls1-supra It's not easy to find a used LS engine in the UK, so you'd have the hassle of importing from the US. LS crate engines seem like good value, but a turnkey conversion will cost you £5K+ on top of the engine, gearbox, flywheel, clutch, ECU, and ancillaries. GM crate engines and gearboxes in the UK http://www.partsworldperformance.com/ The UZ has the advantage of dropping straight in, but a manual conversion would cost, and unless you can fabricate a turbo installation it will be expensive to increase the performance. However, if you have the skill it looks like a comparatively easy job once you have reversed the standard exhaust manifolds to point forward. A small-block Chevy would be the cheapest to tune, but it's heavy (don't know how much CW's alloy block would cost ), and you might not want to suffer a carburettor after years of nice convenient EFI, so you'd need to budget for fuel injection. Also has the advantage that an old enough block would't need a cat. A small-block Ford is a little smaller than the Chevy, but they are both smaller than a UZ, so there's no advantage in reality. Apparently, the OHC Ford "modular" engine is expensive to mod.

The IS gearbox would bolt up to the Supra engine, but you'd have to wire up the IS ECU to control the gearbox and the Supra ECU to control everything else. Even if you could make it work, the A650 from the IS is weaker than the (TT) A340, and would probably be at or beyond its limit with the standard 326bhp.

Cooling fan - either electric fan{s) or the viscous fan from the LS400 version of the 1UZ.

The Suprastick can only control the shift solenoids. It will not work with a TT gearbox, which has electronic line pressure control. David's car has a TT 'box with N/A valve body (cable line pressure control). There are other controllers. Powertrain Control Solutions, for example, have a "Toyota/Lexus A340E" harness for their controller that seems to be connected to the line pressure control pin. Has anyone successfully programmed a standalone ECU to control the TT autobox?

Compromise... LS and a Tremec in the Supra.

You won't get away without a cat test on a car manufactured in 1999/2000. http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/index.htm Other than checking that the oxygen sensor (lambda) is working, giving it an Italian tune-up , and making sure the cat is good and hot, I have no suggestions on actually fixing the problem, though. EDIT: Too slow with the Italian tune-up suggestion.

Japan 05/1993-07/2002 TOYOTA SUPRA JZA80 2JZGTE 47-03: BRAKE BOOSTER & VACUUM TUBE - HOSE, VACUUM TUBE CONNECTOR 44771-14010 HOSE, UNION TO CONNECTOR TUBE 44774-14100

Disc diameters: 2-piston front caliper = 296mm disc 1-piston rear caliper = 307mm disc

The only thing I can think of (other than stupidity ) is that someone confused the Supra calipers with the 2-piston rear calipers used on the Lexus IS and Mk2 GS300, but they are completely different. Calipers are usually bare in the UK (our American cousins have the choice of "loaded" calipers, i.e. with pads, shims, pins, etc., semi-loaded - loaded without the pads, or unloaded - caliper only).

Off the top of my head... -- R154 gearbox -- 1JZ bellhousing if the gearbox wasn't originally on a 1JZ (Toyota or aftermarket) -- 1JZ-GTE flywheel (Toyota or aftermarket) -- new flywheel bolts (Toyota or aftermarket e.g. ARP) -- flywheel bolt locking ring -- pilot bearing (6201-2RS IIRC, either Toyota or decent quality from a bearing supplier/eBay) -- 1JZ-GTE or 7M-GTE clutch kit (uprated necessary for a 2JZ-GTE?) -- clutch release bearing if not in the clutch kit -- clutch cover bolts if not in the clutch kit -- clutch release bearing hub and various circlips, shims, and washers if not with the 'box (from Toyota, or Driftmotion sell a kit) - replace the washers and circlips regardless -- rear main seal (probably worth replacing it when the 'box is out) -- gear shift extension if the gearbox is from a Mk3 Supra -- gearbox mount? -- prop shaft (not sure if you can use Toyota parts or if a custom prop is needed) http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/596-guide-fitting-a-clutch-on-the-7mgte-r154/

Bear in mind that an "import" size plate won't necessarily keep you off plod's radar. Strictly speaking, you can only use a small plate if the design of the car's bodywork doesn't allow a standard plate to fit.

It's also a lot less "torquey" than the 2JZ, so it should be correspondingly less likely to muller a W58.

KYB (Kayaba) shocks are about 55 quid a corner. They wouldn't be as good as CW's Bilsteins, but Kayaba are OEM suppliers, so they aren't rubbish.

Bear in mind that, apparently, DOT 5.1 fluid is more hygroscopic than DOT 4, and should be changed more frequently.

By "crank fillet" they mean the rounded section between the main bearing journal (or crankpin) and the crankshaft web. It's rounded to avoid the stress that would be caused if it was a sharp corner. http://www.camarohomepage.com/ls7/images/784.29b.jpg

If you cut a section out of the front dust shield you can fit it without removing the hub. (Pics are of a Soarer, but the hubs are the same.)

It's easy to find the battery dimensions online, so you can compare with the current one. For example: Bosch S4 005 Amp Hours: (Ah): 60Ah Cold Cranking Amp: (CCA): 540cca Length: 232mm Width: 173mm Height: 225mm Halfords HCB005 AH Value: 62 Startup Power: 510 Amps Dimension (LxDxH): 232x173x225mm EDIT: Should I mention terminal sizes? EDIT AGAIN: A loose battery should be an MOT failure. http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4s01000901.htm