Matt Harwood

May be expensive but I think it could be worth it. It may also be usefull if/when I get some kind of boost controller. Thanks for your help guys.

Can anyone tell me where I can get a field connector from?

Errr... Now I'm confused... I thought it was an 80's song... I can feel a bad night coming on!

Aren't they words from a song?

Sounds like one of those things that we should all have. Or wish we had, after the event...

Brian, do you have the info you require? I recieved the pin out diagram from racelogic yesterday for a J-apec if it's any help I can forward it to you.

Sorry to throw a spanner in the works here, but the little marker on my temp knob lights up. not very bright but it's definately there.

My J-spec auto's been delimited with the kph-mph converter with no aparent problems at all. I've only had the car up to 155 so far but no problems with trac or other lights. My spoiler drops at around 60, gear changes seem ok, and steering gets heavier with speed. It was done by Japvillage.com in Horsham. I don't know what make it is but I know it has 5 or 6 wires and it is a small potted unit about 1" square.

Errr, Brad, check my 3rd post... And there was a hint in the second post as well

This is very common for us, working with cars and the doors open all day often flattens the battery. The noise you are hearing is the starter solenoid engaging, then, the starter motor pulls loads of power from the battery, (which, in this case, the battery does not have), and the solenoid disengages. Then the process starts again. This process happens vary quickly, hence the loud clicking noise you are getting. Get the battery checked. Are you sure that the door was closed properly? If it was only closed on the first latch, the interior light would have been held on and could have flattened your battery. Good luck

I thought you still had dash lights?

Sorry mate, I can't help you any further. I could if I could see the car... I'm stumped. the rear lights are powered from the same fuse as the sidelights, (10a in the drivers kickwell), to be honest I would have thought it would also power the front sidelights. have you had any work done on the car recently? (since noticing the rear lights are out.)

That's that one out the window then! Have you had both fusebox's checked?

Are your dash lights working?

Good, glad my lights all work... I also have an ashtray light and a glovebox light! (lower glovebox only though )

Illumination knob does not illuminate, I had it apart recently to clean the internals and theres no bulb, just a variable pot. Although if it's disconnected nothing illuminates! I only have the drivers window switch illuminated in my drivers door. Are the othersin the drivers door and the passenger door window switch meant to also? (Edited by Matt Harwood at 3:32 pm on Jan. 22, 2002)

Any luck yet Gordon?

If you've removed the top section of dash recently, make sure the top right plug is securly back in place.

Can I play... That makes 14

Dont s'pose you want to buy a 2.8i Capri with X-pack wheels (VGC!) :biggrin:

I've used Lepsons in Gillingham. I can't sing thier praises high enough. I also have a Capri, (No laughing), and I got hold of a set of 7.5" RS alloys. (Genuine rocking horse poo!). These wheels had been left outside in a field for about 7 years. They looked disgusting. Whenever you picked one up, it left a grey/green powder on your hands. Anyway, I took them to Lepsons and the chap kept repeating how pitted they were and that he couldn't guarantee how they would finnish. I got the impresion he didn't really want to do them. I collected them 3 days later and I was SOOOOO impressed. I had a set of 5, they had acid dipped, sand blasted, painted the centre spokes and inside rims, polished the outer rims and laquered the entire wheel. - One wheel had been badly kirbed. They welded some new alloy in its place and you could barely see the join. Total cost including refitting tyres £204 inc vat - They looked, and still do, brand new. When I first enquired, they quoted me £35+vat per wheel. For what they had done, I could'nt have been more impressed.

Well, tested again today. It definately pushes back. With my foot to the floor from 50 ish, it pushed back at 120 twice in succession. Again, no loss of power or acceleration and it can be pushed back down again straight after. I'm not too worried as it doesn't seem to affect anything. I was just curious as to why it did it. Not that it's a major concern as that sort of speed is rarely required. Strange. Mine's the only car to do this then?

Tell me about it! - I found that out within the first few days of ownership. Bit fierce isn't it I'm working on the RLTC thing. If you don't mind I think I'll be in touch about the correct settings as soon as it's in. I'll let you know tomorrow if it's me backing off. If it's not... Dunno what to do really! Leave it I suppose.

Perhaps that's what it is.... User fault? - Better than having something wrong with the car I suppose. I'll expriment with that theory tomorrow. I feel a bit silly if that's all it is.

It's either factory fitted or someones done a bloody good job of making it look that way. Can someone do me a favour and check their auto? - Just put your hand down under the throttle and see if you have round plastic plunger type thing on the floor at carpet level. It pushes about 1". (Mine seems to push back! :o ) It doesn't do it all the time. First time I noticed it was yesterday, had the throttle pushed hard to the floor for about 10 seconds or so and it pushed up after about 5 seconds. No loss of power that I noticed, the car still carried on accelerating. - I've tried to do it again today several times and it's only pushed back twice. As far as I'm aware, I have no ghosts or pets inside, only the wife today but she only shouts when I drive too fast.