stevie_b

I've had kids run out into the street to watch me go past! And mine's not even modded!

My car's done about 75,000 miles. It's been checked over since I bought it (but not specifically for any steering issues). The steering seems v light even at low speeds (30-40 mph). I don't have a Thor converter. What's one of them?

No, I've got a '94 NA manual.

My steering's really light too. Every piece of grit I run over, causes the steering wheel to move. I thought it was just sensitive steering, but you've got me thinking now....

Ash, I remember now. I'd only recently picked up mine then, and I was a bit in awe of all the beasts parked up in a row!

Faye, How much cheaper are the Jap TT's against NA's? [/hijack]

Hi mate, I went through all this when I was buying, so... things to look out for: http://www.mkivsupra.co.uk/FAQ/New%20Buyer%20FAQ.htm#Are%20there%20any%20common%20faults%20on%20the%20MKIV%20Supra? Basically, for an NA, the clear plastic headlamp covers can go yellow after several years. There's also the infamous Sqeaky Boot Rubbers. Dimensions: http://www.j-garage.com/toyota/supra/spec80.html Good luck. BTW, I get between 23 and 24 MPG from my NA manual. The auto box on supras is reckoned to be very good.

Thanks Glenn! Car runs again now! I blew air down the fuel line into the tank like you said. Still didn't quite start. Then I (or an assistant actually!) sucked fuel from the tank. Then it started.

Don't think so. This affected mkIII's. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong...! I searched for common problems before buying: the main one is squeaky boot rubbers!! Much less than £1500 to fix

Sorry guys, you may have mis-read my post. I completely understand that a UK spec TT would be cheaper to insure than an NA, which by definition is an imported car. But would a J-spec TT be much more (or any more) to insure than an NA? I suppose the simple answer for me is "phone up and find out". Just wondering if anyone knows already.

- even an NA compared to a J-spec TT? I can understand why a UK TT would be cheaper to insure than any NA.

Oh yeah: look at the VIN plate in the engine bay if you're after a supra with a LSD. If the axle section has a "B", it's got a LSD. Supras were made with so many options, so not just the SZ-R ones have LSD. Insurance: try the club's insurer, Sky insurance. I'm insured with Allen & Allen, about £600 fully comp. I'm 29.

Hi Andy and welcome! I've got an SZ: I think it depends why you want it. If its for looks, then go for an NA. If performance is of prime importance, get a TT. I've never regretted buying an NA, they are still a very quick car and a lot of fun, and turn lots of heads. I get about 24mpg out of mine (town and motorway driving). Loads of debates on MPG figures, do a search if you want to know more on that!

Hi Tina, and welcome! I saw the list of stuff you're selling in a different thread earlier today! That's some kit you've got there!! As SupraStar said, bring it to Japfest so we can see The Beast!

Also, I *think* the hazard light circuit works on the same fuse as the horn. Try the horn: if that works, your hazards fuse will be OK.

I agree. I doubt Microsoft are supporting Win98SE any more (possibly apart from majorly-critical updates), so the update stream will probably stay fairly static. I would just burn them onto CD and run them from there. Here's a list if you haven't got one already: http://scottserver.net/basically/win98seupdates.html BTW, where in W Sussex are you? Anywhere near Horsham? I swing by there sometimes.

absxxxx: yep, it's got an SU carb. I don't know much about carbs, but I've checked that the central pin thingy can be moved up and down in the chamber. I presume this is what you mean? I'm convinced the spark is good, and that petrol goes into the carb, but somehow the fuel only makes it to one of the cylinders. I'll do a compression test like you suggest. Fuel into at least one cylinder seems to *suggest* that the carb is OK. Perhaps inlet manifold problem, or the block itself BTW, the car is 12 years old, with 150,000 miles on the clock!! It won't pass its next MOT anyway in October, but it would be good to be able to use it until then. GlennMR2: I agree that it sounds like a fuel problem. And I'm sure you're right about the fuel filter, after looking for one in the manual and in the engine bay, I deduced that it doesn't have one! I *think* it's got an electrical fuel pump, but I'll confirm this tonight. Good idea about the air line: I know you put air into the fuel pump outlet (leading to the tank eventually), but do you think i'd damage the carb if I put air into the carb's fuel inlet as well (to blow out any crap in the carb)? Thinking about it, I'll hold fire on blowing into the carb. Doesn't sound like a good idea of mine! Thanks guys, really appreciate the advice. I'll give that stuff a go, and let you know how I get on.

That option is fast moving up the list of possibilities!

Hi, I've got a problem with my 2nd car (rover metro, carburettor model). I was driving it from my house 2 weeks ago, and had got 500m down the road when the engine revs just died smoothly (no coughing or anything like that), until it stalled. It was as if the accelerator did nothing at all any more. She hasn't started since. The engine cranks fine, but just doesn't catch. I've done some diagnostics, and here's what I've come up with: 1) spark seems to be good. I took one of the plugs out, and could see the spark jump across to the block when I cranked it. I've also used LED in-line lead testers, and they light up as expected. 2) The air filter looks in good nick, but I've taken it off anyway (the carburettor is below it, which is one of my main points of focus). 3) I tested the fuel pump outlet with a vacuum/pressure gauge. That registers fine. 4) I checked the damping chamber on the carb. It was a bit low of oil, so I topped it up anyway. Car still doesn't start 5) The fuel gauge is over 1/4 full (i.e. not down to the dregs), and the mileage I've done would confirm this. Should be another 50-100 miles at least in the tank. I've shaken the car to try and hear petrol sloshing in the tank: couldn't hear it, but that may be due to my cloth-ears! I've also tested the outlet of the fuel pump by disconnecting it. Petrol spurted out when it was cranked, so I don't suspect a "no petrol" problem. 6) I've had a look at the spark plugs: even after 5 seconds of cranking, only one of them was wet (and it smelt like petrol). The others were bone dry. Any advice that anyone has got would be gratefully received. In particular, what would suddenly cause only one cylinder to get supplied with petrol, whilst the car is running? in advance!

Gotta agree with you Steve et al. I monitor my MPG to see what my engine's up to. I get about 23 MPG out of my NA, using normal unleaded.

Possibly... in October outside B'stoke pizza hut (mmm, donuts!) but very happy to repeat! If you were there, I was the guy whose radio/horn didn't work, and someone showed me around Suprababe's NOS installation: very nice! I haven't been to many of the meets: I'll try and keep my ear to the ground a bit better: be good to meet up with you guys.

Ditto. (the number, not the surge tank!)

Silver one, M3 southbound yesterday around Junc 6 (or whatever the b'stoke junc is). Plate ended in "WOW". Followed you in the outside lane for a bit, then had to turn off.

Quite a strong turnout in b'stoke + surrounding area!

Shame it's nowhere near me. I'd love to look it over: I need one or two bits for mine. Gav, did you get my PM about bits 'n' bobs (glovebox etc)?