Simo2007

Sold.

Whifbitz Side Mount Intercooler for sale as I've done a single conversion now. Perfect condition, it was on the car for less than 6 months. RRP £420. £320 posted. Welcome to collect from Stevenage, Herts if you'd prefer.

Fujitsubo exhaust from 2nd cat back, very good condition, no dings/dents, few very light scratches. Taken off a TT Supra. This exhaust is fairly quiet, so it would be ideal for a track day exhaust. £200 collected from Stevenage, Herts. I can get a quote for delivery at buyers expense if needed, or buyer can arrange courier.

Thanks for your kind words mate. Yeah I hadn't planned going single so quick, it was just the fact I was getting a bit of smoke from (presumably) the second turbo. Lockdown came at the perfect time to sway my decision!

Sold.

Sold.

PM’d you mate.

Brand new, unused, bought from Garage Whifbitz to go with a Link G4+ ECU. RRP £109.20 http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/link-3-bar-map-sensor.html £90 posted. Located in Stevenage, Herts if you'd like to collect.

Brand new, unused and still sealed in anti static bag. Bought from Garage Whifbitz several months back. RRP £1248. http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/link-g4-supra-link.html Only for manual and non-vvti Supras. Going down the Haltech/Syvecs route hence sale. £1000 posted. Located in Stevenage, Herts if you'd like to collect.

Brand new, unused, bought from Garage Whifbitz. RRP is £144. http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/garage-whifbitz-link-g4-supra-box.html £110 posted. Location in Stevenage, Herts if you'd like to collect.

Some more updates, getting closer and closer! Got the fuel rail built up, ended up using loctite 5940 for the injector adapters. This is them not fitted, just sitting in there Fuel rail and injectors installed on the inlet manifold Making up the braided lines for the return to FPR and FPR drain, found a neat technique using tape and a zip tie which kept the braids together really well, left is how the line got delivered, right my technique Intake plenum back on and FPR installed Aux/serpentine belt tensioner back in, aux belt back on, starting to look like an engine again Not far away now. Need to fill up PS with Dexron III, get the radiator back in with viscous fan and air con fan, coolant, then I'll be in a position to install the ECU and think about getting it started up!

So over the past few days I managed to make a bit more progress. I started taking the front bumper off and headlights to attack the intercooler plumbing Was pretty fiddly and I had to cut some of the lower inserts to get the piping to fit correctly around the sides. Was also a bit time consuming getting the power steering cooler relocated by the side light above the intercooler piping on the right hand side Gave it a good clean in there (it was very dusty behind the bumper) and reinstalled everything! Having felt quite exhausted from rolling around on the floor for hours I was happy to get half the inlet manifold off to get closer to installing the injectors and top feed fuel rail kit. Never done this bit before so it's going to take a bit of learning on my part Also thinking ahead slightly, If I depressurise the fuel tank I should be okay taking everything from the fuel filter onwards off right? Or am I completely wrong here? In terms of the charcoal canister, should this stay? I'm struggling to find positions for my oil catch can from PHR.

Thought I'd update this, it's turning into a build thread! Used the lockdown to do a single turbo conversion. I went with the street torque kit from PHR, and got it shipped over from Real St in Florida! Went for a Precision 6266 JB 0.81AR as I'm 'only' aiming for 600bhp. Parts list: Precision 6266 JB 0.81AR Precision 46mm wastegate Screamer pipe Precision 50mm BOV Link G4+ ECU Aeromotive FPR FIC 1000cc injectors Walbro 450LPH fuel pump Top feed fuel rail kit Fuel pulsation damper delete FMIC kit New OEM flywheel RPS Max clutch Spark plugs Wideband O2 (for Link ECU) Boost control solenoid (for Link ECU) Link MAP sensor Maintenance list: Cambelt, tensioner and pulley Crank pulley Valve stem seals Cam seals Front/rear main seals if leaking Water pump Oil and filter Fuel filter Gear selector seal So I got to work a few weeks ago, started removing the rad, airbox and intercooler piping And continuing Well, you guys weren't lying about the twin turbos removal, it was an absolute pain particularly the b*tch bolt. Ended up using a 14mm stubby and some leverage. Hands were absolutely battered after but managed to get them out after removing the cartridges too And here they are, the second turbo was on its way out Found it much easier to just get in the engine bay and work So much room there without the twins in Used the SST tool from Toyota and a puller kit helped get the crank bolt and pulley off Checked valve clearances, all in spec, then camshafts out using correct undoing sequence, and the rope trick to do valve stem seals, managed to get it down to half hour for a cylinder with the practise Cams back in with new cam seals, employing the correct tightening sequence and torque. Cam belt on and time with new pulley and tensioner. Crank pulley on and torqued up to 239ft-lbs using a 3/4 drive torque wrench and cam covers back on Wastegate attached to manifold with screamer pipe in the kitchen And on the car And this is where I've got to so far- turbo on and orientated correctly, downpipe on, just need to tighten up oil feed and returns (I'll leave turbo feed loose to crank engine to make sure oil will come out before first start) Plenty left to do, need to get the front bumper off next so I can sort the FMIC out and then attack the fuelling side of things once that's all in. Challenges along the way: Getting those twins out (b*tch bolt) Sometimes had to reset the rope in the cylinder when doing valve stem seals, slows you down quite a bit Being meticulous during camshaft removal and refitting, take your time and double check Getting correct turbo orientation is quite fiddly I have my fair share of experience working on cars, I've done head gaskets, engine removals, clutches etc all on my own but doing a single conversion is definitely fun (as everything just bolts up) and I've really enjoyed it so far! Feel free to ask any questions as I have brushed over a lot.

1. Josh42 - Staffordshire 2. blythmrk - Derbyshire/Yorkshire 3. erachter - West Sussex 4. Mike2JZ - Zimbabwe 5. Ben_harmer32 - West Sussex 6. Safcdixon - Durham 7. AdamAMG - Mars 8. Tayr - Uranus/Hampshire 9. Lewmc93 - Merseyside / The TSS 10. Mwilkinson - Hampshire 11. m12aak - Leicester 12. Kev.O - Bristol 13. Samurai 20V - South Africa, Durban 14. Trebor69 - Swadlincote 15. Drift_bear - Aberdeen 16. Harrypm82 - Manchester 17. bonus_2000 - Kent 18. Sukhy - Wolverhampton 19. Dnk - Dunk - Redditch 20. Noz - Devon 21. Jim_supra - East Yorkshire 22. Jord - Oxford 23. Style - Newcastle 24. MrGRT - Berkshire 25. kolb - Estonia 26. Swampy - Lincolnshir 27. HamzaHKhan - London 28. WayneW - Belgium 29. sebas - Poland atm 30. Annabella - Lancashire 31. Foxx - Leicestershire 32. Auzzam - London 33.->K1 - France 34. mellonman - SE LondoN 35. Darren - East Sussex 36. Hamilton- Worcestershire 37. absz-Bedfordshire 38. TheRhdsupra - Netherlands, Vierlingsbeek 39. Jongilly - cumbria 40. P_Bazz - Netherlands 41. mc92 - Hertfordshire/Cambridgeshire border 42. Delboy52 - Milton Keynes, Buckinghamshire 43. Suprakeith - Cambridgeshire 44. Jaycee1878 - Liverpool 45. JCBT - Essex 46. Simo2007 - Hertfordshire

Are you open to any offers yet?

Just by any chance does anyone has a full single turbo kit (including/excluding turbo) before I pull the trigger on a new kit?

Still available mate?

Sold.

Did a compression test at the weekend. Warmed up for 10 mins, around 10s cranking per cylinder, both EFI fuses removed, however I didn’t realise I had to do WOT when cranking... 1: 163 psi 2: 163 psi 3: 162 psi 4: 162 psi 5: 165 psi 6: 163 psi Will repeat with WOT when I can, but I think I’ve got a healthy engine!

Thanks for the reply guys. Will get a compression test done ASAP. Are you doing the forged build yourself?

I think my stock turbo seals are on their way out, so the time to go single has come early. I hear stock hybrids aren’t overly reliable. I’m BPU on a TT6 and I want to do this properly, should we be refreshing the bottom end on 25 year old engines as a matter of course if aiming for 600bhp? I’d love to be able to do a forged build myself but I’d rather leave it to the experts; I can get it down to the short block though on my own, and will be refreshing all gaskets and seals on the way. What’s the consensus? Gutted I won’t be able to enjoy BPU this year but want to do this the right way rather than the quick way. I’d appreciate any advice and/or recommendations.

If Ric hasn't opted for the intake hose I'll definitely have it!

Done mate!

I mean I’m pretty sure I mentioned about the electric heavy motor and the reliability haha! And yeah to be fair, they are comfortable!