bluecoupe46

Sold

For sale are my Mkiv supra headlights from my 1996 import. Overall the lenses are in bad condition with scratches inside and out and hazing to the outside of both lenses. The painted inside trim inserts have bubbled up due to excess heat (another car on fire about 5ft away), but the lenses are intact (just scratched and hazed from years of being stored outside with no cover on the car and not cleaned). Rear housings are fine and the inside trim could be blasted back to bare metal and re-painted easily enough. £60 takes them both collected or £75 delivered

Selling my Grams Ridox front bumper (without undertray). Technically the bumper is new as it's never been fitted to the car properly so has never seen the road, but it's been stored outside so i'll need to give it a wipe over before it's sold. Radial crack to the gel coat by near side headlight, small crack to gel coat at the bottom of the bumper. The bumper did have a base coat of colour applied however this was never finished, unfortunately a car fire on the drive caused the base coat to blister a little on the near side (see photos) but caused no damage to the fibreglass or gel coat, just bubbled up some of the paint which would need to be sanded back prior to re-priming. Collection would be ideal as it's a big item, but I travel a fair amount for work (usually between Gloucestershire, Birmingham, and further north to Warrington so I may be able to meet enroute or deviate for a fee if it's not far from my route. Price £100

Have you got an idea of what price you want for it? Would be interested for my track car.

Which rear arms do you need, there's multiple lower arms. Depending what you are looking for I may have a used oem set available.

I'll take them. Pm me your PayPal details etc... Cheers, Alex

PM'd

Bollocks. Too late!

Looks like i'm too late! I converted to wide-band knock sensors now i've upgraded my ecu, so you could've had my old oem knock sensors cheap. Hopefully the new sensors sort it for you, and it's not a wiring fault. The stock wiring loom gets very brittle in places close to the engine. Found mine with split outer casings and degraded copper wires in many many places when I stripped my loom for re-wiring to the new ecu

I have a rear wiper motor, not a front unfortunately. Guessing it's the front you're after?

I've got a GPS tracker with geofencing (if it moves out of the zone it texts me it's location, speed, direction and a Google map link every 2 minutes). I can set it to text me updates up to a maximum of every 10 seconds. It is also wired into the ecu power so I can text a code with a password I set and it will kill power to the car so it won't run. I can also listen to what's being said in the car with it, and it's battery lasts 90 days, however it's also constantly plumbed into the car battery too. So once the car battery dies its got 90 days of charge. I also plan on installing a kill switch to the automatic gearbox position sensor so it thinks the gearbox is in drive until I flick the switch. I also have an autowatch alarm/imobilizer Plus a labrador that barks if he hears anything outside at night (he's surprisingly sensitive). And I'm lucky to live in a good area in a small village. My main security device at the moment though is I have no wheels, engine, diff, hubs...

OK, speed sensor needs to be spliced between both ecu's Your link ecu should be able to run with the crank and cam sensors spliced to both ecu's too. Let me know how you get on. I suppose different ecu's will work slightly differently so may not like splicing, but I've not heard of any issues with splicing before. Im interested to see how the other guy is running his setup if you are having issues splicing to both ecu's.

Did you splice the speed sensor wire or cut it and wire it directly into the ecu? Following wires can be spliced (wired into the stock ecu and aftermarket ecu): TPS, Cam 1 & 2, Crank pos sensor. The autobox may use the tps and RPM feed (primary trigger I. E. Crank) to run fully. I'm still waiting for a final part before I can test mine again in the road.

Price request for the manifold, turbo and downpipe all together. What brand/s are all these items?

Alloys sold, ECU Sold Still available: Rear wiper motor Bonnet stay (gloss black) Oem (used) front and rear control arms 2jz Gte vvti maf sensor Charcoal canister 2jz ge manual oem ecu A340e (turbo) auto box oem accumulator pistons, steels and used clutch packs (still in good condition).

Gte pistons and Rods in good condition you should list up for with all piston pins etc would be about £200-300 max. Oem camshafts £50 440cc injectors with rail £50 Stock coil packs £100-150. Don't know about super red coils, don't know if they're better or worse?

Hi, yeah there are many different boxes, however pmc make different adapters for different bmw boxes, as not all bmw boxes have the same bolt pattern etc. So a gs39-5dz box out of an e46 330d, won't fit an adapter plate made for a bmw zf-320 box. I need to know which box this adapter plate fits, or else I'll be guessing as to which box to buy.

Hmm, I think this might require a trip down my local breakers yard! Going to be a real pita trying to remove old abs sensors to test and measure. On another note, Brantz do aftermarket sensors and pulse reducers/doublers, not sure if their sensors/systems would work alongside the oem toyota ecu with a lot of fiddling.

Do you know the code of the gearbox this was designed to fit? I'm doing a 2jz conversion in my bmw e36 track car so need to get an adapter plate, and clutch etc.. Cheers, Alex

Standalone has complete control of the engine. Vehicle speed should be spliced as both ecu's need vehicle speed info. The 12v ignition switch would usually turn the stock ecu on. This is the same for the emu black

You literally just said with GE pistons the compression ratio is 9:0.1 not 8:5.1 the op wants 8:5.1. Hence why I said use gte pistons. Can use 9:0.1 pistons fine, my Manley pistons in my 800hp gte build are 9:0.1. I won't be changing the GE pistons in my 400hp track car build either. Just the op specifically stated 8:5.1

Fair enough. I knew the piston dish between the gte and ge was different, wasn't sure how different though. I heard the gte headgasket took the engine to 8:5.1 but must've been misinformation. In that case, a set of gte pistons or aftermarket 8:5.1 gte pistons will do you fine.

Welcome to the forum! It sounds like you've got most of it covered. Log manifolds are great for spool times and keep heat in rather than spreading it round the bay. In terms of headgasket. Use the stock GTE headgasket to reduce your compression ratio down to 8:5.1 With the right turbo, fueling and ecu you'll see 500 easily enough, and likely 600 if you upscale everything. I'd recommend switching to a walbro 450lph fuel pump, change to an aftermarket top feed fuel rail with 600+cc injectors. You'll want to bypass the stock fuel damper, so you'll want to get some lengths of aftermarket braided fuel line. I can help you with sizes. Otherwise whifbitz sell a kit, but it's expensive for what you get (I went the whifbitz route, but now I've got the kit I can see what's included and the sizing of the lines etc...). Im doing similar to you in my track car. Currently got 2 major projects on the go. 750hp 2jz gte for my fully refreshed supra, and a 2jz ge (NA-T) for my BMW e36 track car. If you need any help or advice give me a shout. Kind regards, Alex

No problem, Let me know how you get on.

OK, Give me a few days to work out the best route (I.e. Whether it's better for me to get a full engine gasket set, as I'll also need a front and rear main seal) or buy those separately. Cheers