98HT

Without a doubt log style. Cost, strength and easily supports your powergoals.

I'm a big fan of cast manifolds, especially for your powergoals. Arnouts manifold would be my nr.1 if you can find one. The modified SPA manifold by FSR is also really good and proven for well over 900whp. A little cheaper are the treadstone manifolds. Make sure to get a genuine one! Needs a little bit of porting at the wastegate area, but nothing serious. Very well made.

Just to add, since their are so many singles in the UK, maybe someone can give you a ride? This way you can experience it first hand

This was in the Netherlands ps: US figures are spot on and backed up a trillion times with trapspeeds. Cars with almost the same setups seem to make similar numbers over here, just saying.

The s366 is waaaayyy overkill for you hp-goal. Look into a s360 (83-75) or s362 (88-75) instead. A S366 will make over 800 whp on a good setup! It's a great turbo if you're looking for more then your goal though. Over here a s360 made just over 560hp (flywheel) at 17psi on 97RON and cast manifold, stock EU/USDM cams and 3inch dp and exhaust. AFC aswell for the naysayers

Borg Warner Airwerks 83-75 with a cast manifold will get you there.

Well since the 6466 already did 900 to the wheels with a cast manifold and 10:1 compression 3L, stock head and 3in downpipe/exhaust, I would suspect around the same numbers with a stroker. Can't see it push out much more imo. All the tt Supras in the States are non vvti, that's why you don't see a lot of these around. Every usdm turbo vvti supra is converted. I agree with JP, a 3.4L vvti must be an epic combo. Prefer a little higher compression like 9.0 or maybe 9.5 for our fuel. Small quick spooling turbo like a 6466 ot 6766 would be awesome. I think there is a time attack supra in Sweden with this exact combo. Or like Arnout built a few years ago: vvti big single + compressor = almost no lag

Yes I mean the inside. But sometimes you can see it from the outside aswell, where it kind of deformed the wheel well. Not sure how to say it actually, English isn't my first language sorry!

Like I said I'm not here to change your mind. Just stating my opinion. Show me one mkiv with rolled fenders where it looks factory. From inside the fenders ofcourse. With cutting this is much easier to do imo. I don't doubt your work at all! And I'm damn sure there are some clean cars around whith rolled fenders. Just haven't seen them on MKIV's yet. We are here to help each other out on this forum, and I'm just noting another option that might work well for the OP.

Lol that's one of the most well respected bodyguys around. People travel thousands of miles to get their car done by him. He knows his stuff period. There is a reason almost everyone in those topics prefer cutting. I've seen the window treatment here as well, so it's bs to say the cars in the states are crap. I'm not here to change your mind though. Since I'm sure you didn't even search for comparisson pics or topics on about this subject... Have fun rolling your fenders

Just cut them till the spotwelds. No welding needed. There are plenty of threads about this topic all with the same result where cutting is preferred. Since this topic has been beaten to death, I will just copy and paste exvelocity: '' Rolling is usually preferred to keep structural integrity of the panels avoiding the possibility of developing corrosion issues,especially for the guys up north. There are few negative points to rolling quarters on MKIV,the way the inner wheelhouse and outer quarter skin shaped and welded together makes the final result not smooth,if you'd look down the side of the car,you will notice waves and ripples right along the wheel arch, and no matter how careful it's done,the waves will be there, the second downfall is that rolling creates something I like to call a "window-treatment" effect, photos below will clearly show what I mean. The reason the "window treatment" effect happens is when the lip is gradually folded,the leading edge of the wheelwell arch is very rigid and placement of the spotwelds makes it tougher, the spotwelds will create resistance in the areas where they are and causing the leading edge to be slightly higher than the area between the spotwelds.For some odd reason MKIV is the only car I have come across that has this issue, I've rolled quarter panels on countless, sometimes I get 3-4 fender rolling jobs per week and can say all other cars is a cake and the results are smooth,wider quarters,because the structure on other cars is more flexible,so while rolling the lip, the whole edge of the quarter gets pushed out, not so on MKIV.I've also had metal split at spotwelds while rolling,I just can't remember if the quarter on that car has been replaced or it had factory welds.'' Pictures speak for themselves. Search.... In the end it's a personal preference, but I like cutting much and much better than rolled fenders. Even perfect rolled fenders don't look right to me. ps: the picture above is missing the plastic trim in the back.

DON'T ROLL, but cut the fenders. Much cleaner and factory looking. Ask exvelocity on sf.com, he is the bodyman to talk to. Very helpful guy. One of the trillion pics floating on supraforums:

I think Krister is talking real hp (to the wheels). A local maxxed out his bosch at a little more, ~630 rwhp on pump 97ron. Awesome build btw, love those twins

First: With proper offsets you can fit a 295 or 305 (differs per brand) without a cut/roll. 10.5-11 inch width. For the correct offsets search or ask in the threads I've posted above. As abtin90 mentioned, CCW offers good supra offsets. However I'm not sure if the offsets from CCW with the 11.5 inch wheel fit without a cut/roll. Second: Don't roll your fenders, but cut them to get a factory finish. Plenty of threads on this topic as well. Stefan (exvelocity on SF) is the man to talk to about this. He is a body-expert when it comes to MKIV's and works on these cars daily. Pretty sure he wrote a 'how to'' on SF.com. You can always send him a message, he is very helpfull

Supraforums.com is probably the best source for these cars. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?558091-Wheel-Tire-Size-Offset-Thread-Search-here! http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?286652-*official-Rims-wheels-Post Good luck!

Nice results!! Planning to take it to the strip? Should be a 9sec car with ~150mph traps

Edit: xxxxx

In for more info. Would like to see how it compares to the latest Proefi, Infinti and the new MOTEC M1.

BPU= downpipe, exhaust, boost controller, intake, bcc (fuel pump & RR adviced on j-spec) BPU++ = Cam gears, fmic, fuel control etc. Every plus is one addition. APU = hybrids, single. Time to bookmark these pages: mkiv.com supraforums.com

Definitely make a post in the review section of sf.com, since he is very active over there. Why didn't you go with your friend in the first place? Ever considered Motec?

AEM infinity?

Right.... you are proving you never been in a properly setup piggyback/afc car. FYI most of these cars have been dead reliable and are daily driven. It's all in the tune really. A local blew up his motor and that was a standalone To be clear again my comment is more directed to syvecs bpu cars and large intake manifold cars with ''low'' hp/tq goals. That's over the top. You can agree with that or not, I don't really care. Every topic on this forum is the same... Someone wants a single turbo setup ---> result get a syvecs/standalone or it won't work properly. It laughable really. The alphabet soup has proven itself for plenty of years. Just because there are very good standalone systems on the market, doesn't mean the simple old school setup don't work or are not reliable. EDIT: if someone has the budget, than a syvecs is a no brainer ofcourse.

Patrick, I've got your pm but for some reason I can't pm back...

That's exactly what i meant

Chris, don't take it as an insult, because it's not meant to be. Just by judging on the post from the OP, I'm pretty sure he is on a tight budget. That's why I suggest USDM injectors for a 400-500hp goal. They are cheap (just clean them if buying second hand) and are proven to work well, even on the j-specs. Just like a stock ecu with an afc works perfect. Like I said stock driveability and reliablity. I'm from Europe, not sure why that's important? Like I said before, it's not meant as an insult. Just my opinion. I'm a fan to keep things simple. Like you said stock twins would be fine as well, but that might be pushing it... Edit: I know piggybacks and afc is like cursing on this forum. Guess nobody has good experience with them?