Adam W

I can barely hear my open WG, the exhaust is too loud! The new setup should have the dump pipe routed just behind the front wheel on the drivers side, I might be able to notice it it then

It works by measuring the rate that the engine rpms accelerate. It sounds like a horrible system to me, there are a few bugs in it, and even when they do get it working I wouldn't want to rely on it! Lots on infoon the AEM forums.

Another vote for boostlogic here, I've spent loads of money with them and Kean really knows his stuff. Excellent customer service throughout.

Suprastore are a bunch of cowboys. STEER CLEAR!

No problem there at all. It's one less thing to leak!

It depends whether you're running out of fuel pressure at the top end or if your injectors are maxed out (ie >90% duty cycle). There are threads on here about when the standard pump runs out of juice, can't remember eactly when an upgrade is recommended. An FSE won't do any good if the problem is your fuel pressure dropping off due to the pump being weak.

I think a 10.5 is the widest that will fit under the stock arches. I just thought though, it's difficult (impossible?) to find any tyres wider than 245 in 16" sizes so this may not be a great course of action after all . . . even if the wheels do stay in one piece!

This is something I've read about on supraforums, wondered if it could be done over here and if it was a good idea! I like the sleeper look of the wheels I have on mine (16x9 rears, stock J-spec TT) but I could really use some more rubber on the road (big single, no traction control!). If I could get them widened to 16x10.5 or something (I'd need to research exactly what would fit under mine) then I would maintain the sleeper look and could run a nice wide tyre with a high sidewall which is ideal for straight line traction. I know nothing about what the process involves or whether it is a safe route to go down and wondered if anyone knew anything about it. I know it can be done though!

In an ideal world the fuel pressure should always be base pressure + boost pressure. Remind me what your engine management setup is? Perhaps the mixture problems with the stock FPR are to do with the ECU reverting to settings it's learned to compensate for the faulty FSE or something? If you had a fuel pressure gauge in the cockpit it would be a lot easier to see what was happening

But if it was a full-throttle run then yes, that does sound too lean to me. What are your EGT's like? Edit - just read your EGT fitting thread 12.15 probably isn't "instant engine death" territory, but it's usual for cars to run a bit leaner on the road than they do on the dyno from what I've read. This is why people try and aim for a conservative 11 or 11.5 max. Seek specialist advice from someone who knows about it, rather than has just read about it like me

You want to aim for somewhere near 11:1 under boost, 12:1 is too lean for safety and 10:1 is too rich for max power. When you're off the boost the car will sort itself out and aim for around 14.7:1

You've tried swapping form the FSE regulator to a stock one and it made no difference right? Could be a problem with the vac feed to it, try tracing that line back all the way to the manifold nd making sure it's got no crud in it or anything. The vacuum should be trying to drag the pressure down at idle though, so a blockage would cause a rise in pressure . . . unless it's blocked with a wodge of old oil which is airtight when cold, then allows vacuum past it when it warms up causing the fuel pressure to drop? I had a similar problem where my BOV wouldn't "fire off" until the engine had been driven for half an hour, it wasn't seeing any signal from its vac line until it had warmed up. A long shot but all I can think of right now!

I think they go on the rears, well they ought to with those tyres on! Seems a bit odd to go for a narrower wheel though. Same size as standard Mk3 wheels FWIW.

I dunno, go do some research http://www.summitracing.com probably sells what you need though

The pad shape is the same, I have read that the pad material (stock) is different though (the Lexus pad is much softer and not as suited to fast road driving). If they're selling you uprated pads then that's not an issue, you may want to check about that though.

People like NOS and MSD sell ignition retard boxes which will only activate when your system is firing (if you drive round with retarded ignition all the time then you will be losing power when the nitrous is off) but you would have to investigate which systems would work with the Supras ignition setup. Or you could buy my s/h Apexi ITC off me

If the yanks get hold of it then it will be very popular on the Supra - it ought to be bloody great for drag racing. Instant shifts and no loss of boost between them, just like an auto, but none of the transmission losses thorugh the convertor.

What are you trying to achieve?

Yep, it's the steering column which is the main difference - the main issue will be the location of the wastegate which hangs under the assembly. Also it's dumptube (if your running vent to atmo). With a cast one it should be close enough to the side of the engine for it to clear, photos would help though!

I may have read this wrong, but you don't need (or want) any sort of chip that will mess with your ECU. It sounds like a TRL mph/km convertor chip will sort out your speedo and odo, and his boost-cut controller (a separate unit) will allow you to take full advantage of your decat etc in the future. Both are well proven and highly recommended.

Cliff; if you're staying with the standard autobox and stall speed I would go as small as possible, ie a 58 or 61 as you suggest. I don't know what the stall rate is as standard but even with a 63mm turbo I've heard people whinge about really, really sluggish takeoffs. When you're talking about horsepower numbers with the american vendors ask them about the figures for "18psi on pump gas", because they will give you the figures for 30psi on C16 to make the turbo sound good This will be a more realistic figure for when you're running in "street trim". If you do put a high stall convertor in there then it will leap off the line, even with a big turbo; but then you have to think about whether the autobox will be overwhelmed or not. Leon has been through a fair few autoboxes so his input would be valuable.

I insisted on using my car for about two years as a daily driver, 70 miles a day to work and back. Anytime a job needed doing it would take time out of my weekend, and as the car became more and more highly tuned it was less and less fun ensuring that it was in a fit state to get me to work every morning. The best £600 I ever spent on the car was on the Mondeo I commute in. I actually enjoy spedning time on the supra now because I can choose when to work on it, it's not getting tired out by the high mileage and getting salt all over it in the winter, and I've knocked about £150 a month off my petrol bill. Which is nice. Do it!

Is it a twin-clutch setup as used in the Bugatti Veyron? ie one clutch plate is already "loaded" with the next gear and you switch between the two or something . . .

So are you going to tell us what was actually wrong with it?

Bit late here but I was able to run 680cc injectors (up from 440cc stock injectors) with an SAFC, had issues with the ignition timing though. I definitely wouldn't want to go any bigger than that, getting it to idle would be a pig. If you need larger injectors than that, going from piggybacks to a replacement ECU will make your life easier, not more difficult.