Adam W

Yep, WB 02 setups are getting more affordable by the day. I'd never be without mine now.

In the runners.

How about on one of the con rods? Apparently just sticking a bolt into a spare bolthole on the head and putting the sensor on there can work. Do you mind if I ask what equipment you're using? It's something I keep meaning to buy myself.

I've got one of the boostlogic exhaust housing jackets, not quite as pretty as the one Ian posted but same sort of idea. It seems to work pretty well, but I haven't done much high boost running yet. I would imagine that the best way of reducing this problem is keeping EGT's down around the 700C mark, which is something I'm hoping to achieve.

I'm suddenly glad that I went to so much trouble to keep all my heat shielding in place . . . I've also got an asbestos-type jacket which fits over the turbo exhaust housing. What other solutions are there Chris? Big vent in the bonnet? If so, cold air in, or hot air out?

You must find out what boost you're running, with a full decat on a jap car you could be hitting 20psi upwards which would expain why your turbos keep dying! Other alternative is that a shoddy rebuild was done, get it to Leon to find out why they keep blowing and to get it fixed properly!

Cams for the Mk3 are like £600 EACH If anyone ever gets wind of a cheap set, do let me know

Take it to america and get it dyno'd You won't make that power on standard turbos, you'll need uprated hybrid turbos, about £2k plus fitting I think, plus larger injectors and pump.

Greddy make the T78 and T88 kits for the MkIV, I think they do a twin TD05 as well. I believe their turbos are made by mitsubishi. The 61, 63, 67 turbos you hear about are garrett units, there is a much wider range to choose from both in compressor wheel size and exhaust housing size if you go for a garret unit. The big supplier is an american company called Sound Performance, but I went with http://www.boostlogic.com for my turbo. Lar at SP is a good guy but he is just SO busy he can be really hard to get hold of and get any info out of. Kean at boostlogic is a good guy, fantastic customer service, and answered all of my thousands of emails very promptly. There are lots of different manifolds available, SP and BL both have their own fabricators, never did much research cos it's not really applicable to me, but from what I've seen/heard the quality shouldn't be an issue from any of the reputable suppliers.

The good thing about going for a single is that there are loads of sizes available, from 3400rpm/500bhp up to 5000rpm/900bhp, and swapping between them is pretty easy. With the twins, you're stuck with what HKS offer, which is pretty limited. I don't think you could go smaller than the 2835's if they are too laggy for you. Plus, a single setup costs half as much, and there is half as much to go wrong! No-brainer IMHO

Nope, had mine before the antisurge thing took off. You shouldn't need one on a turbo that small anyway. Sounds like a jetplane on fll boost, can't hear the exhaust over the turbo whistle, so yeah, it's pretty loud Nick: The GT Twins will be MORE laggy than most single setups, certainly no gains to be had from all the dyno sheets I've seen. Although each turbo is half the size, it's only hooked up to half the cylinders so has half the exhaust energy to drive it. I haven't wound the boost up on mine yet but you get a smooth, fast rise in the power band as the turbo spools up, rather than the abrupt kick of a second turbo being "switched on" by the ECU. Drivability: if you're worried about traction problems then RLTC is your answer, but as long as you're not afraid to work the gearbox then keeping the car in the powerband round the twisties isn't an issue. The only place mine feels "dead" is coming out of a tight hairpin at the bottom of a steep hill on my way home from work. 2nd gear = wheelpsin coming out of the corner and not much forward progress, 3rd gear left me struggling along at 2000rpm up a steep hill with no boost. The answer would be to use 2nd but modulate the throttle a bit, but I haven't had chance to practise much yet

Forgotten all about this thread I got some toluene through work (just a few litres of it) so I'll give it a try once the car's running and report back.

I've got a 67GTQ, .68a/r, standard ignition map, full boost at or before 4000rpm even in the lower gears. Perfectly usable under normal road conditions IMO, the US guys are getting 650rwhp from that turbo at 2bar boost on 116 octane fuel. I don't want anywhere near that much power, but it will move that much air if required.

You can get a pretty good idea of the lag from a medium single setup by converting to true-twin operation instead of a single. Well, what I've read of TTC matches pretty well with the powerband I've seen from my car running a medium single. I would offer you a ride but 1) It's a Mk3 2) It's in bits I think the two may be related . . .

How's a restrictor ring gonna get me to 30psi?

I've heard very few good reports on the AVCR. Overcomplicated, not that reliable, not very good at holding boost in varying conditions. It's been around for donkeys years as well. I've got the old-school 1/4 DIN blitz DSBC which works perfectly, easy to setup and adjust etc. The SBC-iD would be the one I'd go for if I had the money.

The link above was the guy I'm talking about . . . nothing ever happened to him in the end AFAIK. Anyone, consider the odds of getting nicked for having a detector against the number of speeding fines you're likely to rack up in a year without one.

I think you have it right Phil. There have been no prosecutions for use of a jammer at the moment, I think because they're so rare the police can't be bothered creating a "strategy" to deal with them so they just ignore invalid readings. Even if they did try to prosecute you there is a big grey area in the law about this, all you're doing is emitting light after all. I believe some guy in wales was being threatened with prosecution, but nothing ever came of it.

Well, they're twice the price of a big single, which would give you the same horsepower and boost characteristics . . . I would definitely speak to Leon at JPS about this; we can all regurgitate information but he's driven more big power supras than most, with all kinds of turbo setups. He runs the big twins on his (not sure how big but I'm sure he's had 2835s at one point) and tuned a load of big single cars so will be able to compare and contrast the two.

I would imagine that whether you go turbo or supercharger, you're always gonna be limited by the NA engines high compression ratio. ie you'll only be able to run 5 or 6 psi of boost unless you strip the block and change them.

Any BOV will fit. There is another thread running about external WG on stock turbos, I posted in it this morning.

Welding to the standard cast manifold is fraught with problems and unlikely to hold up for very long. It would be a pain in the arse trying to package it in there with all the neccessary piping. You'd have to pay for lots of hours labour stripping the turbos off, and a few trial refitments. And at the end, you would have gained . . . nothing.

Any water loss? Check to see if the water pump still has all its fins on it, the Mk3 units can look fine from the outside but when you take em off sometimes theres just a shaft left in the middle instead of a "water wheel" where the fins erode away. Thermostat, rad cap, check for old cooked brittle hoses, maybe bleed it for airlocks. And cross your fingers and hope its not the HG gone

Your setup is basically the same as a US/UK car which has had the MAF replaced with a MAP sensor, which is what 99% of AEM users do anyway. I would highly recommend a visit to the excellent AEM forum at aempower.com, lots of maps floating about. Most of them are for single turbo cars but you should be able to get some input.

When I put mine in . . . I guessed Most meltdowns seem to be on 5 or 6, so it would seem logical to pick the rearmost one, but I couldn't be arsed to trace the wires all the way back. I couldn't be arsed to wire it up to both in turn and then make a decision either! I figure it's more of a gimmick than a useful tuning tool anyway, although I haven't had chance to play with it. Theres a line in the instructions that says something like "Be careful: sometimes the knock count will decrease as the engine is knocking more and more". That kinda put me off relying on it too much! Thanks for your PM yesterday btw, will apply your solution at the weekend