Adam W

You could get a pair of hybrids from a known good supplier (the guy that Leon or Paul E use for example) for that price, I would feel a lot more confident about that than letting some unheard of company do the work.

I'm already a member but think it would be a great idea for us all to join up "in bulk". If you enjoy driving, especially a big fast thristy car, then you NEED to be a member cos no one else will stick up for you!

I reckon that would be the perfect place for it simon. No good if you're 6' or over though, I find that once the sunvisor is down then I can't see past the end of the bonnet as it's right in front of my eyes!

Defi make HUD's, pretty good by all accounts. What did you make of the vette? Was it a C5? (The newest shape ones, curvy rather than the 80's "Knightrider" look). I just lurrrrve those cars, the forthcoming C6 looks damn fine as well IMHO.

What I have at the moment is "Astral Black" or "Nightfire Black" or something (factory Toyota colour), it has fine burgundy flakes in it that only show up under direct sunlight and show up all the countours and edges of the bodywork, looks gorgeous. But it's a 15 year old paintjob (lots of scratches and chips, a few carpark door dings) and I'd like something *slightly* more noticeable but the same overall effect.

They can get splurged up with old oil (if changes have been neglected) - just wash em out with petrol to clean; or maybe bent, but they aren't a replacement part IMHO. They will either have gaskets or sealing washers on each end to make the seal, which will obviously need replacing, but as Ian says . . . it's a metal pipe. Unless they've murdered them wrestling the turbos out they should go straight back on! I had the stock turbo off two or three times on the mk3 and reused the same pipe each time.

This is exactly what I'm thinking of for the spring dude. Black -> nicer black! How much?

Steve - your lowest boost level available will be with the controller switched off, you can then increase it above that point. As you say, with cats removed your lowest available boost level with jump from stock boost (10psi?) to about 16-18psi. You may need to fit a restrictor ring just to keep it down to 18psi. I couldn't comment on how much of an issue heat buildup will be with cats/restrictor ring fitted.

You should have just spliced into the connection for the SAFC feed, NOT chopped it and rewired it to the SAFC. The ECU will throw up an error code if it loses the signal from one of the knock sensors though.

The factory ECU can make a proper assessment of the signal from the knock sensors and automatically adjusts the timing to suit. Apparently it has some processing routine to make sense of the signal rather than the SAFC which is pretty crude.

Apexi don't give you any numbers to indicate what might be "good" or "bad" and it says somewhere in the manual that "due to limitations the knock display may go down as the engine knock goes up". Which means it's a totally bollocks gimmick and take no notice of it Right up there with the £50 Autometer AFR gauges

It's got about eight inches of pipe on it, leading straight downwards. It would be a lote easier to plumb it into the downpipe but I wanted the cool sound effects I've heard so much about!

I wasn't exactly blown away by mine . . . the exhaust note gets a bit "angrier" when it opens, but it doesn't get noticeably louder . . .

34psi isn't it? Probably a bit high . . . but not by much :flame Dev

I have .68 on mine and I'm thinking of changing to .81 to gain a bit more top end, it really does spool up quick with a .68. As regards drag times, theres an indian guy on SF who runs 9.8x at about 145mph with a 67 P trim. Can't remember his name, silver car with drag times in his sig. I think if you go any bigger your car will actually get slower over the 1/4 mile unless you have a raised rev limiter, cams etc, because you will spend less time in the powerband. The T51Kai has been around for a while now, and I think the garrett compressor wheels that SP and BL use move more air with less lag. I've only felt my turbo on about 10psi, and it felt pretty quick. High boost should be very exciting indeed! If you go with a 67 I think you will struggle more with traction than with not having enough power. Can you ask Kean why he recommended the P trim instead of the Q trim?

The top one has too much irrelevant stuff printed on it, and the bottom one is in that horrible Kwik Save script . . . I choose Greddy

Yeah, I can see that side of the coin as well, but I reckon it would be easier if all modded cars were compared using rwhp, and there is usually a set of dyno figures for most standard sports cars floating about. ie someone will have dynoed a stock tuscan or ferrari or whatever so you should be able to find out their rwhp.

It seems to me that converting backwards up the drivetrain is fairly immaterial - it's the only power which reaches the wheels that does you any good, so that's what you should quote/be interested in.

How often do you guys have to reapply it? I used to use it but found it worked great for a week, then it started to get crap really quickly! I got fed up with having to reapply it every two weeks, especially as you can't do so unless the screen is dry (not very likely in the "rainy season").

Good work dude, I had been wondering about this myself for a while!

It's easy isn't it? Increasing fuel flow is trivial, you just need properly sized injectors and a suitable electronic controller/ECU. The difficult bit is getting more air through the engine, but cos we have turbo cars this is easy as well. Turn the boost up and/or fit a bigger turbo. All other mods are just about enabling the engine to cope with that boost pressure, whether it's IC/water injection to keep temps down, or forged pistons to survive where the stock ones would melt. Anything else is just a gimmick So, big turbo, big fuel, big computing power = big fun

I believe the complete boostlogic kit with manifold, turbo of your choice and decent wastegate, plus some exhaust and intercooler piping, is about £2200 + a bit of shipping and any duties you might feel the need to pay. I only bought the turbo from them but everything I've read about their kit suggests the quality is excellent. I think you will struggle to beat that price but if you're confident you can beat it then go for it!

The BL67 is what I have, 3800-4000 is where it all starts happening on my setup; hoping to improve that by doing some proper mapping though! Not a big deal in my opinion, but it feels pretty dead below 3000rpm and theres 0.5 - 1.0s delay after hitting the gas even when you are in the powerband. I learned to live with it very quickly, but if you are used to the instant response of the sequential setup you might find it harder to deal with.

Not having a dig or anything, it's just that you say that response is more important than peak power to you. You will get the most response with stock twins or hybrids, even a small single turbo will have noticeably more lag and less bottom-end grunt that the stock setup because you haven't got that tiny turbo spooling up at 1800rpm or wherever it is.

I can only tell you what I've done, but I would recommend boostlogic.com for turbo, wg and manifold. I could write a thousand pages on turbo sizing and still only cover 10% of it, you will have to do some research yourself on this. Fuel system - depends on your bhp goals. Twin in tank pumps and ~850cc injectors should do you. Boost level - big turbos work best at around 25-30psi from what I've read. Be aware that you will need seriously high octane fuel to run this with any timing advance! Engine management - I'm going for the AEM, seems stupid to ask the ECU to hand four times the boost it's mapped for by "tricking" it. You will need a big IC and decent oil cooler, along with a few other bits and bobs. From your last sentance though, I would suggest that stock twins would suit you better . . .