msupra1

perfection! have you thought about running the ridox front lip?

I have the downpipe wrapped and use a turbo blanket.. and I'm sure this helps but the engine bay still get quite hot. Is running a heat shield to protect the brake booster a good idea or necessary?

Well, I shall do the same, looks good

Thanks for the photos! It looks like I'll go with the Civic overflow. I did a search and found the part numbers. I don't mind cutting the battery tray to get it fit. I noticed yours is black. Was that painted? seems like they come in the yellow'ish plastic material. edit: I noticed your windshield washer fluid tank.. that's black. I guess it was just painted.

My JDM Supra had the small terminal post battery with factory radiator overflow tank put in front of it, ever since I upgraded the terminals to standard size and got a bit larger battery, I have been running a water bottle for my radiator overflow... which I have to empty out every few drives. I'm trying to figure out an overflow tank that will fit beside the battery. Any suggestions for any that at compact and smaller? The key thing Is it can't be much taller than 6" if I want to place It beside the battery, otherwise it may hit the hood.

have sent you PM about these and other parts

I'm in Canada and our highest grade pump fuel is good for about at the most 1.2 - 1.3 bar. I just finishing my tuning a couple weeks ago after installing cams and AEM Version 2 meth kit. My tune on the AEM V2 has a switch for 2 maps, one for straight pump gas, and one for pump/meth. The straight pump gas tune on a Borg Warner S366 turbo made 565bhp at 1.2 bar I run 60/40 mixture of meth/water and the final tune made 695bhp at 1.65 bar. That's with zero detonation/knock. We could have pushed more power out of it but it was dialed back for a conservative tune. We also did some testing. At 1.1 bar the car made about 540bhp on pump gas. With the meth kit spraying, at 1.1 bar it made 585bhp I ultimately wanted the meth kit to run more boost, as that's the only real way I can make more significant power. The pump gas is limiting. The tuner said running 100% meth is an option and it will make more power but I met my power goals so I'd rather stay safe with a mixture. All in all I'm very happy with the results. I had my AEM V2 ecu updated to the latest firmware to get some failsafe's setup in place.

PM'd

I run 2 maps, pump gas 570bhp , it hooks in 2nd with no traction issues but when I run my meth/pump map for 700bhp, once I pin it the back just kicks out and hits redline in 2nd. If its relatively warm and dry the car hooks in 3rd.. but half of the time its losing some traction in 3rd. My wheel setup is really aggressive and I was having rubbing issues. I've been running this alignment since BPU. Since then I've had some inner fender work done and suspension is 0.5" higher so I should be fine to go back to a less aggressive alignment. I have a rare Bilstein coilover setup but they don't have dampening control. These are as soft as stock if not softer, they feel good but too bouncy. I'm eyeing a set of HKS coils which ill likely be picking up. I need something with dampening control. Well after reading this thread it looks like I'm going to go with 18" I'd agree 17" feel felt the best but it's too small for my licking. 18" seems like a good size. edit: I've also always had wheel hop issues with 19's, on my previous supra and this one. On 18's it wasn't as much of an issue. I'm guessing its due to the low profile tire.

Ahh well I just find the 19's to look just right on a kitted MK4 but in terms of performance the cars feels significantly better on 18's. But besides that I'm wondering if it would be significantly improve traction? lets say same tire and size just different sidewall

I have 19" wheels and car makes 700bhp. I love the look of the 19's but I'm finding traction an issue after my new power upgrades. This is with around -2 rear camber and a decent 285/30 tire. Warmer weather it hooks fine in 3rd but usually spins out. I'm about to order new tires but I'm contemplating about dropping down to an 18" wheel. Current setup: 19x9.5 , 255/35 19x10.5, 285/30 I'm thinking of: 18x9.5, 245/40 18x10.5, 295/35 My tire choice is Pirelli P-Zero (have a discount for them). If I have the same tire, just one series thicker sidewall, and a bit wider with 295, would that make a significant improvement for traction compared to the 19" Another reason for the 18's is I feel like the Supra feels better on these wheels all around, feels a bit sluggish on the 19's sometimes. Any advice?

I'm not sure, I found these photos of a supra for sale in Japan

thanks, I will have to contact the seller and see what they say

http://i.imgur.com/qZUQCU3.png http://i.imgur.com/iBAyO0u.png

I have the OEM side skirts and ridox front. I figured to make a project out of it by adding a custom made extension to the bottom of the OEM side. I can't justify the cost of getting new ridox sides and painting as OE are close. The OEM look is good but feel like it's lacking a bit. Anyone have suggestions what kind of material to use? that's paintable. It doesn't seem like there's really much to it. Just needs to be straight material with a rounded outer edge, about 0.5" tall or less.. and then cut/bolted to each side with custom brackets. RIDOX: http://i.imgur.com/fe05BtW.jpg Photos I found a while back which appear to be stock sides with extension http://i.imgur.com/7A2FihE.jpg http://i.imgur.com/B0agl9y.jpg

I am putting in a TITAN dampened crank pulley, and I was told the drive/serpentine belt is shorter than stock since the diameter of pulley is smaller. Does anyone know the belt size? I believe the TITAN and ATI are identical. It would be much easier to know the size than having to figure it out by making measurements cheers

So a stock crank pulley is 100% fine for 700-750bhp correct? This is the most power my motor will see. I am not going for more. My tensioner snapped on me! probably because of the stock pulley failing. I am lucky the timing belt didn't skip and bent my rods or something... that was a close call. An ATI or TITAN motorsports dampened pulley is not that far off on price but stock one is a bit cheaper. I am revving to 8000rpm on a built head, stock 2jz bottom end.

Yeah Titan or ATI pulley are the options but I'm kind of a time crunch here. If these are recommended and stock is no good for nearly 700bhp then I'll have rush ship one here. I definitely wouldn't not want to see it fail again, can't take that risk again... but I figured a brand new one with new tensioner should suffice? I'm just guessing but want to make sure.

In the middle of my dyno session my timing belt got a lot of slack and was making noise, so after further inspection we found that my stock crank pulley cracked and the tensioner went out as well. I replaced my OEM crank pulley (which cracked on me 2 years ago on BPU) with another stock USED crank pulley. If I replace it with a NEW oem crank pulley that should be fine for bigger power? It went out on me at 630bhp but the car will be making around 680bhp once tuning is done. Just want to make sure, I can get the OEM one quickly where as anything else I'd have to order in and I'm tight on time but want to make sure I'm setup right.

Car is getting new cams and in the process I'm going to go ahead and refurbish my cam covers and whole intake manifold. I have done a lot of DIY paint projects under my belt including plenty sets of rims but I'm unfamiliar on the process for high-heat engine parts. Is there some sort prep work needed? you generally sand something down before painting it but wouldn't think this applies to something like a manifold. Just clean them good, high heat primer, and high hear paint? cheers Trying to go for a finish like this http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v99/cvc9216/IMG_5020.jpg

I don't have any photos handy but my left side upper door trim, that straight piece that clips at the top and seals the window, when the door is closed there is a 1/2" gap between it and the window. Because of that there is a significant amount of moisture getting in there and water when it rains. My car just had a new paintjob and I removed that pieces, and when it went back in now its even a bit worst than before. I believe my vehicle had some damage in the past on the front left quarter but don't believe the door was affected, everything looks straight and nothing suspicious. My driver side trim sits nice and flush against the window. Is it likely just the entire trim piece that needs to be replaced? I have fiddled around with it and trying to see if I can maybe bend it back but don't want to break anything. Any ideas

I think I would know if I'm running a standalone ECU haha It has an AEM V2. I called my tuner and he recommended that I get it as it will be easier to adjust fuel pressure. Luckily the FPR doesn't cost that much. I have a shop that handles my upgrades and another shop for tuning. If my personal Supra mechanic feels the FPR is not necessary I'll just sell it off.

Ahh too bad I didn't see this earlier. I have already ordered some fittings and some -6AN line, and was planning to just get everything else locally. The kit would have made it less of a hassle.

The car is single turbo running a 400lph pump and SARD 800cc injectors, and it will make near 700bhp, I was told by my tuner it does need a FPR.