msupra1

Thanks for all the input, I'm most likely going to get the billet bracket. To be more exact here is the history with my crank pulley issue. When BPU, the crank pulley rubber seal broke into pieces when doing a slight drift around a turn. I replaced that with a used Aristo pulley that a friend had laying around. I was running 460whp on that pulley no problems. Then on the dyno session the timing belt was wobbling so they refused to continue tuning it. Took it back to the shop which is when we found the rubber seal in the crank pulley cracked, as well as the tensioner bracket completely snapped.

When the Supra was getting tuned last year, the crank pulley cracked and that also the stock cast tensioner snapped into two pieces. So I replaced those with an ATI (TITAN) dampener and a new factory tensioner. Its been just fine making 600whp for the past year. Now with the new tune and setup I am expecting about 700whp which is 800 at the crank. Considering I just put in a new tensioner should it be fine to run for this kind of power? or would a billet tensioner be recommended? I just spent a lot over my anticipated budget with the last phase of mods so trying not to spend on things that not absolutely necessary! cheers

Unfortunately I can't because I bought it used. The seller purchased it 2 years ago and never installed it he decided to revert the car back to stock.

nvm.

I am running the AEM V2 ecu I don't mind the cable being there, just trying to see if there is a good way to move it out of the way more

800bhp single turbo 2jz-gte

I am running the stock intake manifold and throttle body. I would like to hide or move the throttle cable more out of the way, instead of it running right across the engine and held by the bracket on the cam gear cover. Any idea's or suggestions? I have deleted and hidden multiple things on the motor and this is one of the few things remaining. Cheers

I had a Stage 3 single disc clutch, full face flywheel, steel lightened single mass flywheel. They are rated for 585tq. The clutch has 6,000 miles on it. Half of that was done making 460rwhp, and other half making 600rwhp. My pedal started sticking so we pulled the clutch. The actual clutch disc looked to be in great shape, lots of life left on it. But the issue was excessive hot spots on the flywheel and pressure plate face. Especially the flywheel surface was almost bumpy from the hot spots. So I just had a new Stage 3 disc installed, a better version which is rated for over 600tq to the wheels. I'm not quite sure how I managed to cause that damage. I only had 2 passes at the track, but I probably practiced over 20 launches on the street. Other than the launching it was just used for some hard boost cruises. Is it because overheated the clutch too often to cause what I described? cheers.

That's great to know. My Borg Warner S366 isn't hitting full boost till 4800rpm in 2nd, and 4400rpm in 3rd and every gear after. I'm on a 3" downpipe and midpipe. I'm doing a full 4" soon, which will leads to my hks 4" exhaust.

also forgot to mention, when I let the car cool off fully overnight, the next day I took it for a quick spin and the problem did not go away, engine is cold at that point so it can't be overheating the cylinder?

I have a 700bhp single 2jz-gte.. the cars been running quite flawlessly this year with no issues. I ran into my first real issue and its with my clutch. I was driving one day, and then when I was taking off from stop lights I noticed the clutch felt very weird. It was engaging at the very bottom, and instantly. I usually can smell the clutch burning after take off, since I have to slip it quite a bit because engagement is so instant. And sometimes it will just have a really soft/spongy engagement. I did some hard pulls in 3rd and 4th and it looks like the clutch is holding solid. It's a stage 3 single disc. I suspect that it might have something to do with my clutch master cylinder. Did anyone else experience these kind of issues? I was thinking of flushing it out and putting some DOT 5 fluid in there, see if that helps. cheers

Excellent More power here we come...

have a 97 RZ-S 6spd. Stock bottom block, 66mm turbo, head has upgraded gsc 269 cams and springs/retainers. It makes 700bhp. Got the car with 68k miles (mostly stock), and now has 87k miles. Had the car for 3 years and never bothered to check the compression numbers. Got the shop to check it for me. Cylinder 5 read 158psi and the rest read 160psi. Motor had to cool down a bit but was still pretty warm. Searching around I have been seeing numbers anywhere from 124psi to 180psi that are considered good. I just wanted to see if my numbers are good. Thinking to push for a bit more power but from what I've been sold motor is very healthy. And that having larger turbo/cams will affect the motor compression a bit / lower it? cheers

The Pirelli P-zero have larger sidewall than a traditional 35 series. its more like a 40. I agree I would go wider if I could but I'm fully flushed out with my wheel offset. It fully hooks in 2nd, the traction is great... just not in 1st, its grips a bit when accelerating to redline after the wheel hop over . The coilovers suspension is quite soft so it helps since it squats down on acceleration.

The car is a 1997, bushing are all original but look to be in pretty good shape, same as the rest of the drivetrain component in general. The coilovers are bilstein in good condition. It just feels like its the wheel setup, it feels like its trying to catch grip but getting some wheel hop.

I don't live in the UK I just find this a great helpful forum for a fellow J-spec owner. Exactly, I am trying to get good at launching for a good/decent 60 foot time. The rest is easy. It takes off quite nice minus the wheel hop. I'm sure wheel hop is not good for the drivetrain/differential/lsd either. Maybe I can try slipping the clutch a bit more. I also reduced my rear tire pressure to 25psi. My street setting is about 34.

I have an AEM V2 standalone which doesn't have TC. I practiced more launching today. I'm starting to get the hang of it. It looks like anti-lag only works if I hit full throttle, if I hit the accelerator half way then I can freely rev the engine, but the rev limiter is set at 4800rpm I experimented around 4000, 4200, 4500rpm etc... it seems to be the same story mostly every time. I slip the clutch a little giving about half throttle and its getting some wheel spin and wheel hop, as soon as the wheel hop goes away I pin it, then shift to 2nd and off. I think traction is not my biggest concern, its mostly wheel hop. The wheel hop is not really bad either but its significant. I have tried taking off quicker and the wheel hop gets worse. Maybe I can slip the clutch a little more for a smoother take off?

I'm hitting up the track for the first time next week and wanted to practice my launches. It's 690bhp 6-speed car with a stage 3 single disc clutch, on Pirelli street tires 285/35. My suspension is quite soft, and I run the lance alignment which seems to be doing me good. On the street, the car hooks in 2nd, so traction with my combo is quite good. I didn't practice launching that much yet but did some launches whenever I had the chance. I have anti-lag setup for 4800rpm, it builds 15psi but when I go up to that rpm it quicly then drops down to 5500 after hitting anti-lag. So to avoid hitting anti-lag... I rev to about 4200rpm steadily and it builds up some boost. Instead of 'dumping' the clutch, I slip it a little and once I starts rolling then pin it. By doing this it seems like it has gave me the best takeoff results so far. There is a little wheel hop if I slip it too quick, but I'm thinking if I drop the tire pressure down from the 34 to low 20's that should help? On anti-lag, I dumped the clutch and was losing traction badly. I have not tried slipping the clutch while hitting anti-lag yet. I know the point of anti-lag is to help for launches, but I honestly had it setup for shits and giggles.. I don't want to keep beating on it if not necessary. Any advice and tips? my first time running the 1/4. I'm mostly trying to figure out what the ideal rpm Is for launching...

Oh alright, I read somewhere about having to remove the fan, so its just the bolts? And how do I train some coolant before pulling off the rad hose? I've worked on my car and motor a lot but never touched the cooling system.

Hey guys.. I have a stock radiator, and the fan shroud cover has some bad scratches. I wanted to remove it to have it repainted. Just by looking at it, I'm not quite sure where to start. I couldn't figure out where it unbolts / unclips from to be removed. Any help would be great, cheers

On the drivers side beside the brake booster, that seems like the only place available to fit a catch can. In order to make that work I have to tuck the wiring harness that comes from the bottom over the top of the strut area. My fender liner was removed but I was told to put that back on (for protection) and the wiring harness can be redirected through the bottom. That seems like the only option. Any advice how I go about doing this? not sure where to start

My current coilovers are very soft, and I am having rubbing issues with my aggressive wheel setup, so I had to change to this alignment: -2.2 camber front and rear, front caster is set at 4.0 and toe is 0. I found these specs on the AU Supraforums. From my understanding it was a street/track setup. Needless to say, I was getting significant tire wear. I just picked up new tires and I'm trading suspensions with a friend to hks hipermax. So I'm able to dial back my camber as I shouldn't be rubbing on the fenders. Just wanted to check If everyone is using this alignment or have some of you played with the settings a bit more? I was thinking about adding some more camber in the front, like -1.5 but not sure if that's going to give me uneven tire wear. Lance Alignment: Front: Camber - 1.0 degrees Caster + 5.0 degrees Toe 0.00 mm Rear: Camber -1.5 degrees Toe in (total) 1.00 mm

I thought I'd mention that these are USA Made GSC S1 power-division Stage 1 cams. On my stock j-spec cams I was hitting boost a 4400rpm as well. These cams are rated to lose zero on the bottom end which from tests is true. They also make more power and out perform HKS 272's cams significantly. The GSC is a beast of a cam... they are great. So these cams are not sacrificing bottom end. The build boost up and spool is same as the j-spec cams. It will help a lot with mid range / top end power. I've been going back and forth about this. My tuner said that there wouldn't be really much difference, and a bigger downpipe is not really necessary for my power level. Well regardless, if I got a cast manifold, I would have to get a new downpipe made. So 3.5" is something to consider. I've already been a few single turbo setup's so I don't want to get in over my head, already spend too much money. I wanted to keep it simple, just change the manifold.

My 66mm turbo (Borg Warner S366) with .91 divided housing on divided manifold hits full boost at 4400pm in 3rd. It's even more lazy in 2nd and 1st. This is on a 3" downpipe and 269 cams. Instead of changing the turbo itself, I was thinking to change to a cast manifold. The Supra is making about 690bhp at 1.65 bar on 50/50 water/meth injection The goal is to make the same power at the same boost level, but spool 400-500rpm sooner. Around 3900-4000 rpm would be better. Is this possible to achieve with a cast manifold? or how can I achieve this with a smaller turbo.

I understand that on the stock untouched valve cover I can just run rubber hose to a catch can... but If I'm wanting to run 90 degree AN fitting / and braided line from the valve covers does that require drilling/welding in AN fittings? The catch can I purchased fits ideally beside the brake booster, so I was wanting to run the lines towards the firewall side. I just had the head off for cams and such.. and had the covers repainted. I didn't realize it wasn't a straight plug-n-play kind of things. Just wondering what are the options? could it be done without damaging the paint or removing the valve covers?