msupra1

Yep too bad all Dyno's cant just give the same reading! But lets say we do this conversion, 85% of 650 is 552(rear wheel HP) I have been reading around, and seems like others have been making power in this figure Even if I can make about 610-620bhp I will be happy... getting up to 650 would be awesome, as that is my limit on this car. Regarding fuel lines would be great to know! and if a fuel pressure regular would be beneficial, or if tuning should be enough.

I was original running BPU, then an unturned setup on T3 housing, at just 1.1bar.. so excited to finally have a proper single setup. New setup includes: S366 66mm turbo T4 .91 twin scroll, on twin scroll manifold, 40mm wastegate SARD drop-in 800cc Injectors Walbro 400lph fuel pump HKS Ti Carbon exhaust + 3" midpipe and downpipe ARC 2 row intercooler AEM EMS V1 standalone This is a 97 TT 6-speed (non-vvti). It has stock fuel lines, and stock cams. On pump fuel here, which is 94 Octane, I can safely run 1.4bar or so. Typically with similar setups on stock lines and stock cams, guys around here make in the 500rwhp - 550rwhp range on pump gas easy. A friend made 518rwhp at 1.25 bar, very similar setup. Lets say with conversion, 600bhp is about 510rwhp (at 15% loss). Our dyno's calculate wheel hp here. I am going in for tuning really soon. I am wondering what is the safe limit on the stock lines. And how far can the stock cams be pushed? I believe these two things are the only things that will limit me. My goal ideally around 520-550rwhp, so with the conversion, that's about 610-650bhp. So hopefully I can reach it now, otherwise I am seeing what the next step is. I also don't have a fuel pressure regular, is this worth getting? Cheers!

After removing the rain guards, it has left a lot of the doubles sided tape on the trim. The trim on the car is looking also a bit dull So what's the best way at removing all the glue without damaging or staining the trim? and what kind of product should I use to restore the trim on the car? make it a deeper black basically. Figured I'd ask as I've never this specifically before. cheers

As you can see by the photos, the door cards have been removed.

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can anyone else confirm about the clips? do I just simply try and push it towards the window, and should clip into something?

As a side question, on the lower part of the windows, which are inside the door at all times (even when fully detracted)... they are very dirty and even have greed on them. Are they easy to remove? would like to clear that up.

This is how my drivers side looks: This is how my passenger side looks: As you can see by the photos, the trim is not sitting flush against the window as it should. At the front it is, it's just the back part which leads towards the middle of the door. I was taking the door cards off today along with sound deadening cover thing as I'm getting ready for some new mirrors... and noticed it smelled really bad and lots of moisture and some water drops in there. I'm thinking that's because of the exposed hole at the top. I believe it was like this when I purchased the car nearly 2 years ago, someone must of tried breaking into it or something. Anyways is there any suggestions how I can about to repair this? Would like this done before the door is put back together. Can the trim be somehow adjusted, or would I need to purchase new trim? or is it not the trim and possibly another issue? regards

Yep sent them a message, I don't have cruise control, but I'm thinking that the cruise control one should be able to work for me, as it did for you?

My currency is double what pounds is, so it wasn't exactly the cheapest to begin with .. paid express shipping as well. I already paid driftworks, so I'm hoping they can exchange for one that fits. Otherwise I will need look into this second option.

So anyways, the airbag light is least of my concerns. I'm just having a hard time getting a proper hub to fit a wheel to begin with. The HKB hub I bought from driftworks.. does not fit. The diameter on the bottom surface, it's too large, so it hits the top part for airbag socket. One of the last hubs I had, which I sold with my previous steering wheel, I remember the diameter of the bottom surface being rather small, it was just metal and it cleared the top socket part just fine. This is the one I got from driftworks, Supra JZA80 Airbag w/o warning lamp - OT-163 http://www.driftworks.com/hkb-steering-wheel-boss-hub-nissan-honda-toyota-mazda-mitsubishi-subaru.html This is a 1997 RZ-S, it has the factory Camry style bulky steering wheel. So not sure which one I need now? I will contact driftworks. this is how it originally looks (I cut the airbag plug a while ago)

I just bought the HKB before you replied from Driftworks! I got the one without cruise control as I don't have it. On your dashboard do you still get the airbag warning light? or do I still have to remove that? I figured with the airbag boss kit, it will trick the car into thinking it has an airbag in place, so the light should go off and the passenger airbag should function?

I also don't have cruise control, just factory airbag basically.

I have a 1997 RZ-S that came with the standard bulky airbag steering wheel. I bought a 'momo boss hub' and didn't work as it couldn't clear the part that has the airbag plug. So it looks like I need some type of hub that's made specifically to clear a factory airbag supra and that's more roomy on the inside.. anyone know where I can get one of these? It's for my Sparco wheel. I'm also in Canada but have no issues buying elsewhere if that's my only option.

I'm asking this for a buddy, He picked up a 1994 NA 5-speed 4 months ago. It's only got 92,000 KMs (57k miles) It's been mostly sitting and just started up to be moved. Mentioned that it was running fine when he first got it. After starting it up recently, he described the motor was running rough and shaking. He started it up again recently, it has a really rough idle, it's shooting a lot of white smoke, and the catalytic converter light went on after the car warmed up for a few minutes. Also described that the smoke has a deep burning smell to it. Not too sure about these 2JZ-GE motors, so any idea's? could the spark plugs be done and it's not running on all cylinders? or what else is a common problem? Regards

Hey yes understood, I will get a 60mm or 61-62mm turbo soon. I would like to just stick with what I have now, since I just bought the turbo not too long ago. I am going after 550 wheep HP, so whatever that is in bhp, around 650bhp ? but I will do whatever the stock cams allow me, I will definitely be getting HKS 264's eventually

I'm also considering the .88 A/R and a cast manifold

I was running a T3 turbo housing on a T3 manifold on my 66mm turbo. I was hitting full spool at 3500rpm. Although it is fun on the low end, I feel like the car pulls weak after 5800rpm. Plus hard to get decent power out of a tiny T3. So I'm looking at a .91 divided turbo housing on a divided manifold, will this be better compared to a .88 open end turbo on open end mani? Any estimates when I should be hitting full boost? I'm running stock cams, those will be one of the next upgrades once the car is complete and running well. Looking to around 600bhp out of the car, should keep me happy.

I don't have the money right now to get some new rims and tires I am just in the process of finishing up the engine build When I run through these set of tires, which are almost new, I will sell the rims off and get some 18's for sure. I'm just trying to work with what I have now. Is there a good all-around alignment for the Supra I can try out? if I continue to rub I can have the camber adjusted and go from there. The tire is setting dead even with the fender and not past it. So I hope with a little bit of camber I can get away with it.

I'm running alignment which is pretty close to stock I believe. I had my rear fenders rolled and then pulled a while back, same as the fronts. Car was going into paint and had this done to fit the aggressive wheel setup. Rear is 19x10.5 +22 with a 285/30. I just got some softer coilovers and the rears are rubbing on the edge a bit when making harder turns or hitting big bumps on the road. The tire is sitting RIGHT even with the fender, and its rubbing right on the edge of the tire. So I believe with some better alignment I can get rid of this rubbing issue. This is going to be a 600bhp street car, and one of the main focuses is good handling, and if possible something that will help improve traction? Is there any recommended alignment specs? I guess that for the rear, I will need to add a little negative camber. Only concern with this is I don't want my tires to wear. I don't know much when it comes to alignment but am I able to run some negative camber, and the toe can be adjusted for even tire wear?

I don't have a divided manifold, just a normal one. was the .68 really that bad ? I'm coming from a T3 setup, and love the way it spool on the low end. I still wanted to keep it spooling well on the low end, the larger AR I go with the more lag and later it will spool? so I figured .68 will be better over anything larger down low, and will be good 'enough' up top ?

right now I'm running a temporary single turbo setup. Un-tuned low boost. I'm doing my final upgrades over the next month or so. In brief mods are/going to be, SARD 800cc injectors Walbro 400 pump 3" downpipe, HKS carbon exhaust ARC 2-row intercooler tubular manifold and 40mm wastegate On the fuel I have here, I'm able to run about 1.45-1.5 bar no issues on pump gas. So I believe I should be able to hit 580-600bhp or so easily on a bit less boost. I'm running a bullseye 66mm (basically a Borg Warner S366) It has a T3 .63 housing, hits full boost at 3500rpm. I bought this turbo used from another guy who ran this on his Supra. The response and boost Is brutal on the low end but at the top after 5800rpm it really dies off. I'm changing to a T4 housing now. I am leaning towards 0.68 A/R as that seems like a reasonable size to retain some lower end boost? I also have the option of a 0.58 A/R , for a A/R size like this I was wondering if it would be too restrictive up top? I just want the car to pull a pit more up top but still have good low end boost. I would change to a 60-62mm but I'll keep this turbo for now. Also I have been considering a log/cast style manifold but then I would need to redue my downpipe and intercooler intake pipe. Cheers

I bought a set of stock cloth seats, the car they are going into did not have the plug-in socket for the seats. I now had them wired up. Before this, at the top of each slider there is a bolt, if you twist them that will move the sliders forward or back. So I fiddled around with that to adjust the rails a bit, also on the left side edge there is this plastic white bolt that twists. So after plugging the seat up today for the first time, I just placed it flat in the car so I can see the bottom side. The right slider rail was on the only one operating, left side wasn't moving. I adjusted the left side plastic white bolt, which seems to adjust the tension on how fast the motor operates.. that did nothing. So I adjusted the bolts at the top of each slider to see if that would do anything, now the right slider won't move. The motor operates, but neither slider will move. I tried to adjust it many times and I just don't know what to do at this point. If the motor is working but neither slider is moving what could the issue be? just been frustrating to figure out Cheers