msupra1

anyone running fpr with stock rail?

I ordered a Fuel Lab FPR -6AN inlet -6AN return port, and fuel pressure gauge. I'm also looking to order about 3 feet of -6AN stainless fuel hose, will this be enough? Now what I would like to find out about the fittings to put it all together, - what kind of fittings should I be getting for the fuel rail? I've read that they should be 90 degree bend. The outlet is -6AN but what is inlet size that bolts into rail? - I will need (1) -6AN to -6AN fitting to run line from FPR to rail ? Cheers

I'm not too sure, I am running Pump Gas + 50/50 methonal/water mix. Which from my understanding is fine, and that's injected directly into the motor through intake manifold

Luckly I have a Ridox front end which really exposes the intercooler

I'll have to go do some more research about them. What is involved to install one? Adjusting the FPR just increases the injector flow = resulting in more power? I guess what I'm trying to figure out if the injector flow is left at the standard setting if that would suffice for my power. I guess it's hard to tell.

I guess last question would be about Fuel Pressure Regulator, Any reason this would be needed?

Good to know ^ I was reading about lots of guys doing big numbers on 3". This current downpipe I have now is my 3rd I've had fabricated, which involved welding a new flange size to the turbo. So another reason why it's just easier to keep things as is, unless necessary. I think I'm going to leave my setup as is, put the cams and meth injection kit in and get it tuned. When I get around the 660-690bhp range +/- it will suffice for my goals with this car.

I have a few questions that I'm looking to get some insight on, so just making one thread for this. My J-spec 6-speed is getting new GSC S1 269 cams put in along with AEM water/meth kit, I have the parts ready to go in. Current setup is AEM V2, borg warner s366 turbo, sard 800cc drop-in injectors, walbro 400lph pump, hks 3.75" carbon exhaust and 3" downpipe. After the new cams and depending on my boost level, I'm aiming for 580-600whp. Dyno's here read In WHP, so +15% that should be around 660-690bhp I think. So my questions are, - I'm running stock fuel lines and stock fuel rail. I have drop-in Sard 800cc Injectors, along with Walbro 400lph pump with 14v wire mod. My performance shop told me my system as it sits should suffice for my power goals. And I know the Injectors and pump should be fine, I'm just trying to see what the true limit of the lines/rail? I'd like to avoid touching it unless necessary. - I have an ARC 2 row intercooler and not sure if there would be significant power gains going to a 3 row setup. Would mine be fine for my power goals? - The downpipe is 3" that goes down to an HKS Carbon 3.75" exhaust. Would there really be any point going to a 4" for that power? I'd rather avoid doing that but just something to consider. Tuning is not cheap, so I want to make sure my setup is good before I have that done. Cheers

I guess I'll be pulling to stereo and try and get to it, how does it look?

I removed my active front lip assembly, I also (cut) the socket that plugs into it (just tapped it off with electrical tape). I have now sold the active lip. The dashboard button has also been removed. I did some searching and seems like its pretty standard for the warning light to stay on once removed. Just wondering if there is a particular fuse I can pull, or I have read about there being an ECU for the active front lip located somewhere behind the dash? and if that's unplugged that will solve the issue? Where exactly would it be and how does it look? I just want to get rid of the (!) WARNING light. cheers

I bought some StopTech slotted rotors, and now I need some pads. I was thinking of running the OEM brake pads but I want a setup that gives a bit more of initial bite. Any input? They will be used 70% for general street, and 30% for spirited driving or a couple track days per year.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't get the meth kit then? vs. putting it directly in the fuel tank? with the kit I'd be able to retain my existing fuel system, just have the kit added. sorry for all the questions! -_-

I agree and that is the plan, but having said that, I am limited in power regardless of how good the car may drive on pump gas. The most common thing people do here to run a bit more boost is get the meth kit, since I can't run lets say 22psi on pump gas. So with making this thread, the main thing I am trying to find out is it's safe to run. Based on the responses and all the research I've done it seems like it is with the proper fail safes in place. Race fuel is pretty expensive and I wouldn't be willing to ship barrels, I have a E85 station 1 hour away so at that point I might as well run E85 but it's still not practical for me, plus its almost double the cost compared to pump. I want simplicity, and meth injection seems simple, anything else Id rather just get less power do straight pump.

I may have worded myself wrong, but no, no one is really running higher boost than 1.3bar on Supra's here on pump fuel.

the tuner told me and I remember it quite clearly that the engine "was starting to get some knock at 19psi" , 1.3bar. the car had quite a bit of dyno time with a full tune, detonation was just a word I used but I thought it was same thing more or less. There is no issue with the car its simply not high enough octane fuel to support the boost if I decide to go over 1.3 bar, it becomes unsafe. May I ask what boost level you guys are able to run there on straight pump gas?

Hmm, is there anyway to check if the fuel pump is running out? I figured the walbro 400lph alone was good for like 550whp easy Wouldn't it end up being quite pricey putting meth directly into the tank as apposed to having a meth kit? I don't really know much about this stuff. someone recently opened an E85 station here but its not ideal to run as its quite some distance from home. I'd really like to stay on pump for simplicity and seems like the meth injection Is common thing to do here.

Yes that's one of the reasons I'm trying to figure out if meth is something for me. I definitely want to run it as safe as possible. As mentioned, I won't be doing massive boost just something moderate. I'll have to see what kind of safeguards my supra builder recommends As for kits, I was looking around and it seems like the AEM is most popular and price seems good.

This is the conversion between Pump gas octane to RON 91 octane = 95 RON 93 octane = 98 RON I run 100% 94 octane... but the quality of the gas here isn't that great so I'd estimate it to be equivalent to 95 RON. Regardless, I am starting to get some knock/detonation at about 19psi (1.3 bar) and tuner recommended not pushing it further. Most people don't run higher than this boost on pump gas here. So I don't have much more boost to play with on pump fuel. The tuner himself recommended that I go with a meth kit, that's what most people do here. My fuel system has SARD 800cc drop-ins & Walbro 400lph pump, the lines are stock. I bought these injectors used and the previous owner was making 565whp on them.

Would also like to note this is a weekend car or occasional DD for spirited driving, or possibly some track days. The boost won't always be cranked up would like to have the power available turn of the boost controller.

On my 6-speed car I'm running a S366 turbo, 3" dp/4" exhaust, 800cc drop-in Injectors, AEM V2 standalone. The car made 460whp/430wtq, dyno reads in wheel HP so that's about 530bhp. It's running 1.25bar which was the most as its getting some detonation because that's the limit of Pump gas. It has the stock j-spec cams and planning to do the GSC S1 or HKS 264 next, after the cams I think that should put me above 580bhp at the same boost level. Lets say I run just a bit more boost, 1.4 - 1.5 bar, that should put me at a power level I'll be more than happy with. The only way to achieve this boost is with meth injection. So I won't be running some crazy boost, just a bit more than what pump gas allows. I have been doing a lot of reading on meth Injection and I'm really undecided. The main thing for me is to have a safe setup as the last thing I want is any major engine problems. It seems like a lot of people run it and it's good but I heard some people blew their motors from meth kits failing. Is there any recommended/best quality kits, and is running straight meth ideal or 50/50 mix? I don't live in hot climate. Cheers

It's a 66mm. It's a Bullseye turbo, rebranded Borg Warner S366. American turbo, not sure if these are known in the UK. Very popular and reliable turbo. Perhaps I will remove the blow off valve, put pipe in there, go for a drive and see what happens. A thought is that the BOV is not functioning as it should and the system is not building up enough pressure for an efficient spool-up time. When I opened my bonet, this is how the BOV looked with the engine running. Is this normal? The metal piece moves up and down of course, but this is what I've been noticing. http://postimg.org/image/bxb0tc6of/ If all else fails, and everything is good.. I'll have to sell the turbo for a 62mm. But as mentioned, on my previous housing, I was making 3500rpm full spool in all gears, excluding 1st. The spool up time I have now is straight garbage.

Yes its T4 .91 A/R divided housing I was just out with the car tonight. I did pulls in gears 1st gear - boost is nearly no where to be found 2nd gear - full boost around 5500rpm 3rd gear- full boost around 5000rpm 4th gear- full boost around 4300rpm 5th gear - give or take about the same as 4th, maybe 100rpm less I understand the boost is not supposed to come on in 1st like the other gears.. but in 2nd I'd expect it to normally. Sounds like some kind of leak? previously, my turbo would also make a constant turbo spool up sound, now you can't practically hear it until its about to spool. On my old setup when I floor it, turbo was boosting strong right at 3500rpm. I know the larger turbo housing shifts the power band over to the right but I can't live with this setup.

Previously I was running a T3 housing on T3 manifold.. on this S366 turbo. It was getting full spool at 3500rpm. Very fast spooling setup. All I really had done was changed to the new .91 twin scroll T4 housing along with T4 mani. I had a new 3" downpipe made as well. I'm running the same 40mm wastegate as before. The couplers have a certain degree bend to them, but they are bent quite a bit, especially the one running directly to the turbo which is not that visible in the photo. Is this possibly causing the issue? I made a pull today in 3rd gear... nothing happens, and then around 5rpm is starts to build boost fast and spools afterwards In 4th when I did a couple pulls it managed to fully spool by around 4200. Possibly some beat leak going on? or is this coupler issue I'm describing maybe the issue? i'll be dropping the car by a friends shop to see what he thinks

I recently made some changes to my single setup. I use to have an HKS BOV mounted right close to the throttle body. I got a new Tial 50mm, it seemed too large to put there because of the battery. The easiest place to put it was as pictured. There is a coupler running from it directly to turbo, and then a coupler running to the intercooler pipe. The couplers are kind of bent as I re-used them from my last setup. The car should be spooling around 4200rpm I estimate. Its a 66mm turbo, .91 twin scroll on twin scroll mani.. 3" downpipe, ARC 2 row intercooler. if I do a pull in 3rd gear it might not hit boost till about 5000-5500rpm. I just feel like the spool-up is very sloppy. Other times I did a pull in 4th and it did spool around 4200rpm. I can't do it much since I'm breaking the new clutch in still. Is it because of the BOV location, or is the BOV location fine? Or is it because the couplers are a little bent and not flowing efficiently? Also the IC piping is steel, and BOV is aluminum. The only other possible location I can mount the BOV is in the lower turbo side piping. Is this going to be beneficial? cheers http://postimg.org/image/i12fg8df3/

wrong section, posted in mkiv technical