Pulley
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Everything posted by Pulley
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Loving how its all looking Just gotta get some nice bucket seats next
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Next lump
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Gotta love working on my supra
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My guess would be if the block has had no anti corrosion in it, I bet when you remove the water pump the hole will be mostly blocked with rusty crud I've seen a few blocks NA & TT like this from poorly maintained engines Had same symptoms in a customers TT and had to remove the pump to clear the blockage before it would circulate properly, and it had been flushed already
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Was silly, I had an oil cooler hose connector split/crack I have an oil pressure gauge on my dash but only noticed I'd lost pressure when the engine tone changed and then the big ends had already gone, I was pulling 1.8bar and moving quite well in top gear/6000rpm at the time The block I bought from you is going in now
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Your exhaust / downpipe at 3" would be enough, it's your head that may need porting, bigger valves
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I had exactly same problem when I forgot to connect the same earth Drive me crazy for hours till I found it
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Can be the crimps have loosened and its pushing past the crimp seal rubber gasket The top and bottom plastic ends of the rad have lots of little fingers that are crimped over to hold the ends on If they pull apart slightly they can allow coolant to seep out under pressure That or the rad matrix has rotted
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10.5 -11 max at 1.2 bar I always try and run 11s under high boost Sometimes spike a 9
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Most probably the w58 IMO Doubt it's anything to do with engine Possible the clutch
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They're oil cooled unless you buy a water cooled one that is lol
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Properly setup fmic of good core design has the potential to cool a higher flow The uprated cw side mount is wot I would recommend bpu and small singles as mentioned above is well ducted and takes advantage of wheel arch low pressure Any increase in the volume between the turbo (s) and inlet adds lag time Horses for courses If for example you were bpu but thinking of going single later on and shooting for bigger hp figures fm may be better But if the more than ample and drivable bpu is where you raining then buy a cw side mount
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This is my old setup before I relocated my battery to boot
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Or just check out my build thread?
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I thought the 2jzgte is interference And most the time I find the tensioner bearing is the part that needs renewing most
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As above, depends on crank pulley I'd recommend using a decent large ring spanner and lump hammer as breaker bars have too much give and absorb most of the shock If crank pulley comes of easily it takes me 30 mins start to finish
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Anyone know the resistance range of the innovate MTX oil pressure sender? As I need to source a replacement
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Just taken a look, they look very well made and good design, I'd go for one
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Haven't had a look at the KS plenum, does it have internal trumpets?
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Thanks, I designed and made both The plenum is very close to the Hypertune system and running 12 injectors
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So, started up, ran perfectly Some throttle body sticking issues but also I'm now reducing the spring tension on the pressure relief valve on my TT oil pump as the pressure when revving is too high
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Front n rear big brakes with floating slotted discs fitted Adjustable anti roll bars too Just need to bleed em up and it's ready for japfest
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Nearly back on the road, just gotta fit my rear brakes and uprated anti roll bar Fitted front brakes and roll bar and my heckler led sidelights now
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Refurbed brakes fun
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Aslong as the cable and pedal travel is set right it is plenty strong enough, I've tested it already I could make a stainless version
