V8KILR
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I didn't mean that was the max you could get from a Bosch 044, but just that it can flow enough for 600rwhp whereas the Bosch 040 cannot. The Bosch 044 however is generally rated at around 700hp based on advertisements. Here is a flow test for the Bosch 044. It also depends on what dynos we are talking about as my hp and rwhp figures are relevant to a Dyno Dynamics dyno and other dynos such as some hub dynos give much higher power figures and it also depends on the A/F ratio you are getting at max pump flow. See my dyno comparison calculator: http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/dyno.htm . For example, a Dynapack of 778rwhp will be around 648rwhp on a Dyno Dynamics.
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Or a Garret T04Z will do as well and alot cheaper then HKS twins.
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If using a manual, 700bhp is nearly 600rwhp. The GT35R is too small to make that hp level on pump gas. You could get 500+rwhp, but you would need big cams and possibly a ported head as well. The 1000cc injectors are good for 850hp. I don't think the Bosch 040 will be able to flow enough fuel for 600rwhp (but is fine if staying with the GT35R), but the Bosch 044 can flow 600rwhp of fuel.
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Our manual gearboxes are quite efficient and even allowing 15% loss, 600rwhp would be 706hp. OEM autos are another story or course with higher losses (~40rwhp less on a BPU TT for same engine power) and if using a high stall the losses on the dyno can be much higher still depending on the stall.
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My mate broke a stock Jap TT auto torsen diff (same size as NA but 3.7 ratio) in his 6 speed Supra when drag racing. It was the torsen that broke. He was making about 400rwkw on Dyno Dynamics. If you need it to be stronger then a TRD (or similar) LSD center helps but then the crown wheel & pinion becomes the weak point. Another mate kept braking the crown wheel & pinion in his TT auto Cusco LSD at the drags with 530rwkw.
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I never bothered with it when manual but now using the built in launch control in the Link G4 to build boost on the line now that I am auto.
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Try removing the boost controller and setting back to stock.
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It has a few different meanings, but for a street car I think this is a good way to work it out. Put the car in Drive and press the accelerator very quickly to full throttle, and note the rpm at which the car actually takes off. This is your stall speed. For drag racing, stall is often defined at where you over power the brakes and spin the rear tires or if using a transbrake, the max rpm it can go to with the transbrake engaged.
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A high stall just means it has a higher stall then the factory torque converter, which stalls at around 2000rpm. Around 2000rpm is great for the sequential turbos as they are making good power by then, but no good for a single turbo that doesn't start making boost until 3000+ rpm. So with the single turbo, you get a higher rpm stalling TC so it will easily rev to an rpm range where you are making boost and thus enough power to move quickly from standstill.
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If you want to launch at 3500rpm then you will need a TC rated to between 3500-4000rpm. How close you get to the rating will totally depend on how much power (actually torque) that you make at that rpm. What turbo and AR are you running? FWIW, I've seen quite a few comments that people find it very hard to get the stall rpm from the Titan TC that they are rated at, so if you get one of these then get a higher rpm one then you think you need. I have a ~3800rpm stall with MasterPower T70 AR 0.84 and its fine on the street. I have to rev it to about 2000+ rpm to get it to move quickly from a standstill on the flat and probably 3000rpm on a hill, but thats fine for me.
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I always recommend buying a TT Aristo or Supra engine as that is the easiest and often cheapest option. It not the above, then it would be simplier to use the NA head as the biggest issue will be the coils and ignitor as the TT does not use a distributer. The TT wiring and ECU would be needed to run them (or an aftermarket ecu). You also need the TT head gasket (to lower compression to around 9.2:1) and you would need to move the power steering reservoir with the TT head. Intercooler and plumbing needed, blowoff valve and wastegate too. You need a way of getting oil to the turbos as well. You could do a split feed from a sandwich plate before the oil filter. Probably forgotten some things as well.
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Been done heaps of times for a turbo car (my single turbo has a GE block) but sounds like you will use it as an NA? Should work fine but it will have less torque then the NA head as they use a twin entry intake to boost mid range torque.
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Engine Specifications: Master Power T70 turbo with 3.5" exhaust with AR 1.00 6Boost exhaust manifold (twin entry) Turbosmart 60mm external wastegate Crower 272 inlet and exhaust cams (10.5 exhaust, 10.3 inlet), currently set to zero degrees Street head porting and port matching to manifolds Brian Crower 1mm oversize valves Brian Crower rods with ARP 625 rod bolts CP 86.5mm forged pistons with factory crank ACT XTreme +50% pressure plate with vacuum hydraulic clutch (to reduce pedal pressure) TRD clutch plate with factory flywheel 600mm x 300mm x 100mm non-brand name intercooler Twin 14" electric fans with 60mm thick custom aluminium radiator Four factory blowoff valves (Yes, 4 of them!) Custom intake manifold with 80mm throttle body Huge K & N Pod filter Custom cold air box and twin cold air feeds to it Running a 3.5" downpipe to 3.5" mandrel exhaust system with two large mufflers making it reasonably quiet Fuel, Tuning & ECU: Rochester top feed 1000cc injectors with a Link Electrosystems 6 ohm resistor pack Titan Motorsports fuel rail Aeromotive A1000 -10 fuel pressure regulator with std fuel lines Removed the factory fuel pressure pulsation damper Single Pierburg 800 fuel pump installed in tank. These pumps are good for around 530rwkw at 11:1 A/F. Performance: Max power - 680 whp @ 25psi Meremere dragstrip - Best 60ft time is 1.554 sec on 23rd March February 2007 Meremere dragstrip - Best 1/8 mile ET is 7.042 @ 102.71 mph (165.30 km/h) on 31st January 2010 Meremere dragstrip - Best 1/8 mile MPH is 106.68 mph (171.69 km/h) on 8th April 2011 Meremere dragstrip - Best 1/4 mile ET 10.949 @ 129.79 mph (208.88 km/h) on 7th November 2008 (60ft = 1.697 sec) Meremere dragstrip - Best 1/4 mile MPH is 129.85 mph (208.98 km/h) on 29th April 2007
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From the album: 1994 Toyota Supra RZ
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I keep thinking about doing this as well but I think its best to have a quiet muffler setup (as I have at the moment) and use one of these as an exhaust bypass that opens into a dump pipe or bypasses the muffler instead. That way its not under any high pressure so won't break easily.
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It's totally up to the driver at what hp a Supra is dangerous. If you are a good driver then 600-700whp is fine on the street as long as you drive it to suit the conditions and the power it makes. If you are not a good driver, then sell the Supra now before you crash it.
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Pros/cons of using divided manifold with undivided turbo?
V8KILR replied to rwdwiganer's topic in mkiv Technical
Not just the divider. lol. With high enough EGT to melt an exhaust turbine, I'm surprised the manifold was not just a puddle under the engine. A divided manifold and non divided turbo is a good safe combination. -
Pros/cons of using divided manifold with undivided turbo?
V8KILR replied to rwdwiganer's topic in mkiv Technical
Yes, it was in this thread below where they tested two different manifolds. The Precision 6266 CEA Journal Bearing Undivided T4 .81 A/R was the one that was spooled extremely well by the divided manifolds they were testing. See my post #138 and post #144 in this thread and the dyno graphs at the beginning of the thread. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?672553-Hks-full-race-t4-exhaust-manifold-test-results -
Pros/cons of using divided manifold with undivided turbo?
V8KILR replied to rwdwiganer's topic in mkiv Technical
I'm very sure you will get more spool from using a divided manifold (with undivided turbo) based on dyno sheets I have seen with people using this combo. In fact on one thread in the USA it spooled the undivided turbo almost as well as if was a divided turbo. -
If you are running stock NA or TT pistons then it would be a very good idea. If running forged pistons then they are not necessary until you get to very high hp. To do this you need the TT oil pump and an oil feed to the gallery the oil squirters get their oil from. On an NA block this gallery is dry, so you can either get oil to it by: 1. drilling across the front of the block to feed the front of this gallery from the oil gallery on the intake side. This is a PITA, or 2. drill a hole in the turbo side of the block where one of the oil feeds to the TT normally is as this is just a blank on the NA engine block. Then feed oil in to this hole from a splitter where your oil filter or aftermarket oil cooler is. I went with option #2.
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I don't think the injector ms vs rpm makes any difference, as when you are at 100% injector duty cycle, then its still 100% duty cycle no matter what the rpm, so you never run out of time to deliver the fuel. All that matters is if the quantity of fuel delivered at 100% is sufficient for the maximum fuel requirements of the engine, irrespective of whether that maximum fuel requirement of the engine is at 6800rpm, 8000rpm or 10000rpm. Friction losses however do play a big part at high rpm as the friction losses increase at about 2 ^ 2.84, if you double the rpm. i.e Doubling rpm will increase friction losses by 7.16 times. Because my calculator uses whp and the engine is producing bhp and using fuel for bhp, then the engine losses do make a big difference to my calculator, as the extra fuel required to cover the extra friction losses increases very quickly at high rpm. Have a read of the link below (this is page 2 but you may need to read page 1 as well) where I was educated on how much friction losses do occur inside our engines. http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/a80-mkiv-discussion/79385-12-injectors-vs-6-injectors-400rwkw-na-2.html
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A set of MT ET Streets will get you off the line very quickly and drop your ET by up to 1 second over normal street tires.
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OK, I've had a go at allowing for the extra friction losses at high rpm. Ian, does this agree with your logging as I don't have any suitable data logging to compare to. You may need to refresh the page to see the rpm option. http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/injectors.htm BTW, this now puts my injectors at 97% as my max power is around 8000rpm.
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The calculator use WHP and AF ratio as the two main inputs and what RPM this power is made at is ignored by the calculator. Thinking about it, you make a very good point that at higher RPM, there will be more internal friction inside the engine (mainly from the pistons) so that the BHP figure would be higher then it would be for the same WHP that was made at lower RPM. As it is BHP that is made from the fuel (not WHP), I will need to adjust the calculator to take this in to account. Thanks for pointing this out. Are you able to send me some data logging (dyno type, injector ms, rpm and whp) that shows your increasing fuel usage with rpm? I'll have a go at incorporating RPM in to the calculator this weekend.
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Very good. My Supra injector calculator allows for base pressure and fuel type as well.
