V8KILR
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Everything posted by V8KILR
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I ran my stock block to 8000rpm for a few years with no issues so that should be a safe limit. Also depends on how much power you want as well and how good the ECU and fuel is so that you get no detonation.
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I'm in Auckland and I have Supra mates throughout NZ as I run the http://www.mkiv.co.nz website. Where about's are you?
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Congrats on the UK spec version.
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I've had 3 different single turbo manifolds on my Supra and I have never braced the turbo and never had any of them crack. The exhaust pipe has always been braced to the gearbox though which helps.
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If it was me, I would stay with the 6766 as its a better street turbo size and would be quicker on the street. If you are chasing numbers, then the GT42 would be better.
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In the Sound Performance Precision turbo testing that they have done, the 0.81 AR makes more hp then higher AR ratios do.
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You might just make that whp with the 6766 but you would make it a lot easier with the 74mm GT42. The 7275 would also be a good option for 800whp.
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Here is a good article on my website about doing the swap: http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/injectors.htm
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And their Dynojet horses are a bit smaller then the Dyno Dynamics horses as well.
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I recommend around 700-750bhp on a good stock 2JZ-GTE engine. Several people I know have blown one up with around 850bhp. These figures are dyno dynamics bhp derived figures and it really depends on whether you race it or just street drive it.
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And the UK TT auto with 3.538 B04D http://www.supra-forum.com/articles/general/differentials/
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No, its 3.538:1. I have one in my Supra.
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Anybody with solid rear diff mounts if so how noisy is it ?????
V8KILR replied to little num's topic in Supra Chat
I have the TRD big diff with Titan complete solid mount kit (solid welded in rear diff, etc) and it is not noticeably noiser then stock. TRD is noisy on tight turns though. -
Nope, 650rpm which your rpm gauge shows is exactly correct. See my mkiv specs page and find the idle speed info about 1/3 of the way down. http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm
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Thats exactly the rpm that they are supposed to idle at. If you want it higher, then you can use the screw at the throttle body to turn it up.
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Hopefully you don't find out why I'm correct about the traction control being dangerous the hard way.
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Not allowing for the extremely bad traction control system is what I misjudged. Hopefully everyone now knows how bad it is and allows for this when driving if they have not removed it.
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It was a tarseal junction that just had a very small amount of gravel on it. Anyone who was unaware how bad the stock traction control is would have done exactly the same as me. There was plenty of room for me to pull out and cross the road before the truck, but not when the traction control kicks in and left me sitting in the middle of the road. Since removing the traction control about 13 years ago (I have owned my TT Supra for 14 years and have track and drag raced it for all that time), I have never had any further traction issues.
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No. Traction control error which all future occurances of were eliminated by its removal.
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They were tarsealed roads with a little bit of gravel at the intersection which I have already mentioned. I never said they were gravel roads. How can pulling out from an intersection when stationery be driving too fast?
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The gravel under the tires caused them to spin.
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Did you not read what I said? Do not assume that it is a cliche! I was pulling out from a side road on to a main road and the side road had a little bit of gravel thrown on to it as many back road intersections in NZ do. As I pulled out, the tires spun on the gravel leaving me in the path of an oncoming truck with no power. As mentioned only pressing the button to turn off the traction control saved my life. This was in the dry with excellent tires and suspension. The factory traction control is EXTREMELY dangerous and I would never own a TT Supra without removing it.
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I personally have had a truck bearing down on me as the traction control removed all the power and left me sitting in its path and only quickly pressing the button to turn it off saved my life. What I did to fix this was drill the two screws out on the traction control butterfly and remove the butterfly flap so that it then had no chance of it trying to kill me again. I have also done this on my wife's TT as soon as we bought it.
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Single plate clutches have a heavier pedal pressure to hold the same hp but they are alot cheaper as you have noticed. What hp does it need to hold?
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According to the flow map you could reach 650bhp or perhaps even a bit more at 2bar. This is dependent on your engine being able to easily flow that much air. BTW, there is no such pump as a Bosch 440 (or 400) so I presume you have a Bosch 044, which is more then sufficient for your needs.