V8KILR

BL. By stock I mean originally OEM rather then a TH400 or similar.

Perhaps everyone except the only modified OEM auto Supra in the world that does 8's (see 1320ms on Supraforums USA or his website) and he runs a BL auto. I'm running a TH400 as it is stronger then any of the upgraded autos. Only 3 gears but I was manual before so no real choice.

Sorry, no parts to sell at this time but I can get you a new MasterPower turbo at a very good price, which will be way cheaper then any Garrett turbo. I run a MasterPower T70 and have only good things to say about them. Also check out cast manifolds as they spool a lot better then the tube ones and are good to 800+ hp.

At what rpm do you get to 20psi boost? The BL auto seems to be a bit stronger then the Titan one. Not sure how price compares though.

No, the Christchurch one is my mates "V8 KLLR" Supra. My "V8 KILR" Supra is in Auckland. It really depends on whether you want to drag race it or not?. The 0.70 should help it spool okay, but it will not be close to the factory twins on spool or launch. Justin got 20psi boost at 4100rpm with a T04Z 0.96 single entry housing to give you an idea of how quick it boosts. I would expect the 0.70 divided would get 20psi by 3500rpm.

Just to clarify, the stock TT auto will handle 500-600bhp, but the NA auto will grenade well before that. It will be cheaper and better to get the TT engine, auto and ECU as the NA auto will not handle any decent power. Also TT is awesome for having virtually no lag vs any single setup.

Yes, 500rwhp (373rwkw) is really the max limit of the factory auto without modifying it. Also probably not a good idea to drag race it at that power level. It would not be any quicker at the drags then the factory twins due to more lag off the line, unless you get a high stall for it. A friend went with the Garrett GT3540R (61mm) turbo on his factory auto and it made 320 rwkw (430rwhp) at 22psi. A 67mm T04Z is capable of around 400rwkw on a stockish engine, so it would leave a bit in reserve if you ever wanted more power for a strengthened auto or manual setup. That turbo comes with whatever exhaust housing you want for it. A 0.70 divided would be best if no high stall. Check out http://www.mkiv.co.nz and email me if you need more info, as I'm in NZ too.

155k km (96k miles) since I bought it in Feb 1998.

The Link G4 ECU is very well featured (they have a plug in version now) and cheaper then most after market ECUs.

It was a very good test between the two manifolds and 4 different turbo combinations and well worth reading. Unfortunately the manifolds had different ID's which made the results a bit murky as regards to which is the best manifold. The HKS was 1.4x" and the FR was 1.6x" ID, so it is not surprising that the HKS spooled better. What was surprising was that the HKS produced less back pressure, but I think that comes down to the faster exhaust gas flow from the smaller runners in the HKS pushing the exhaust gas through the turbine quicker thus reducing back pressure.

I had the Garrett GT3540 (61mm turbo) in my Supra years ago when it was pretty stock. It was an awesome street turbo and around that size is what I would recommend for anyone wanting a quick street Supra. It made 360rwkw and 20psi boost by 3400rpm (120kmh in 5th). Here is my dyno sheet,

As a rough guide 264 cams are for stockish engines and 272 cams are for single turbo setups. The 272 cams can be anywhere from 9.5mm to 11.5mm lift on different 272 cams so you really need to look at the lift values to decide if a 272 is a good street cam or not. I use the Crower cams and have the higher lift 272 (they give you 3 options) cams (10.3mm inlet, 10.5mm exhaust) and you get a lopey idle at 900rpm. However with 9.5mm lift (HKS for example) the 272 are fine for a street cam.

I have been using the PowerFC for the last 6 years with the FC-Datalogit software and even although they are getting pretty old now, it works very well. I'm making 600rwhp with it on my T70 setup which idles rock steady at 900rpm with 1000cc injectors and high lift 272 cams. It is simple and easy to use with full control over ignition, fuel, etc and supports the sequential setup as well. The only reason I'm changing to a Link G4 is to be able to run a flex fuel setup with E85. Prior to that I used the Apexi SAFC II with 720cc injectors and a Greedy T78. It ran a bit rich when warming up but gave a good steady AF curve up to full boost. I would say this is a good cheaper option for the smaller single turbos and injectors up to 550-600cc in size. With the Link G4 I will be running 1800cc injectors for future E85 use, and if it can idle nicely with those on pump gas, I will be very impressed with it.

I have just bought the Link G4 pNp ECU (the Vipec V88 is a rebadged Link G4) and I will be installing and tuning it at the end of this month, so will post feedback on it then. Three other Supras I know in NZ run the older Link G2 and G3 with great success.

In NZ, the RRP is NZ $1950 + 15% GST. Here is a link to the European dealers page at http://www.linkecu.com/dealers/europe-dealers You would probably be best to contact a European dealer who can also do the tuning for you.

Link has just released a plugin ECU for the Supra 2JZ and I bought one yesterday and hopefully will be installing it at the end of June. I'm currently running a PowerFC which works very well, but I bought the Link G4 plugin ECU so that I can run a flex fuel setup with E85. As the E85 is only available at one petrol station in NZ at the moment (more are planned), the flex fuel option is essential for trips. Does anyone here run a Link ECU with their 2JZ?

I've fitted all the aluminium ones from Titan and the steel inserts at the back of the diff. Also did some urethane ones first.

Log manifolds are good for getting quick spool-up of the turbo, but will limit max power a bit compared to a nice long runner manifold. Great on a street car but really depends on your hp goals and whether you want to drag race or not.

I've organized a 3800rpm stall converter that takes much less torque to flash the converter, as the one I had in their was designed for way more power/torque then my car is making at the moment. I will be putting this in the car in the next week or two and then I'll get it tuned with that converter, which should make a huge difference.

The other option is a higher stall, perhaps around 4000rpm which would still be okay on the street.

I'm running a MasterPower T70 (69mm compressor) Q-trim with exhaust AR 1.00 and it is just way too slow to spool with the TH400 with 3500rpm stall that I have just installed in the car. It was making 450rwkw when manual and is probably around 410rwkw now. It is making around 6 psi boost at 4000rpm and full boost by 4800rpm. I'm thinking about a MP T70 Q-trim with either a 0.81 AR or a 0.68 AR exhaust to suit the auto better. Any recommendations as to which would be best?

The key ingredient there is NOS which I'm not very keen on. Graemes car is now owned by Robert and I was talking to him yesterday. With no NOS and just using the transbrake to launch on low boost (20 psi) he has done a best of 9.8s and does consistent 10 flats on low boost. I should be able to tune mine for the same hp that he is making at 20 psi (albiet on higher boost as my turbo is smaller) and I would be very happy with high 9s from this setup.

I took it down the 1/4 and it is very slow off the line. The only timed run due to timing equipment issues at the track was a 2.4 60ft when just flooring it from idle. Holding it at 3200rpm and flooring it from there didn't seem any quicker though. It hasn't been re-tuned since going from manual to auto so, I will get that shortly to see if this will get the turbo spooling up quicker. Once it gets to 4000rpm it goes really well. If all else fails, I'll put a transbrake in it.

The stock engine is safe to a maximum of 560rwhp (700hp) with the auto provided the tuning is nice and safe. I think that the turbo should make that power at around 24psi. The 550cc injectors limit engine hp to about 550hp at stock fuel pressures with more hp at higher pressures. My 2JZ-GTE fuel calculator is at http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/injectors.htm. I'd go for the bigger injectors and the AEM to make the most of the system.

If car is for track use then I definitely recommend having the oil squirters as they squirt oil under the pistons and keep their temperature down.