V8KILR

With my number plate the same as my user name and signature, any guesses for my vote.

I connected up the wastegate hose and went for a test run today. It feels even faster off the line with the 2600rpm converter then it used to be with the 3800rpm converter. Only problem is that once I got it really hot it started sticking and it will only move between 1/4 open and 3/4 open until it cools down. I'll pull it all apart and trim it a bit more. A little leakage when closed is a lot better then having it jamb when hot. Edit: I just pulled it apart and it was the shaft that seized. I thought the engineer had made it a bit too tight. I'll reduce the shaft size a bit to allow for carbon buildup and heat expansion and hopefully that will fix it. Edit: The stainless is galling so I did some research and you can get Bostik Never-Seez nickel anti-sieze lubes for issues like this and they are good to 2400F, so I think I'll invest in some of that as well.

At the moment it is just running off the wastegate which starts to open around 6psi and is fully open by 11 psi. For my closed testing, I just didn't connect up the wastegate hose. On the dyno, I will have installed my manual boost control and will tweak when it opens.

Yes, it makes it a lot quicker and nicer to drive on the street. It feels much like when I had a 3800 rpm converter in it, before I swapped in the useless 2600 rpm one I have in now. I'll do some data logging this weekend and post up those results.

In my road tests it seems to be okay up to around 15 psi, which would be about 400rwkw. The dyno will give me a better idea though and allow me to fine tune when it opens.

The FTI one I bought is way too low at 2600rpm (despite asking for 4200rpm) and nearly couldn't hold the power either as it just started to slip at mid rpm. They offered to improve it, but my original converter stalls to 3200rpm and can hold a proven 700rwkw so I'll use that.

Yes I can do that. I need to take it back to the dyno after I change the converter to my 3200rpm one and get a quick re-tune done.

I switched to a TH400 last year and getting a decent high stall converter that can hold the power my car makes is not easy to do. As I don't want to use NOS to launch, I decided the best solution was to make my own QSV as I didn't want to cut up my 6Boost manifold just to fit a QSV that requires an undivided manifold. Almost everyone will tell you that you that cannot have a divided manifold quick spool valve. Well, yes you can! All the pics and details are in my QSV article. http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/qsv.htm Here's one of the pics just to get your attention.

The fact the gear changes are violent suggests you have an aftermarket auto.

You can remove the traction control butterfly if you want it off permanently. I personally consider the traction control to be extremely dangerous and remove it from any Supra that I own.

After mine broke, I did a web search and found that this has happened to a lot of people. Should be a 100k maintenance item I think.

I am the person (360rwkw is my name on that forum) who is having the discussion on the USA forum with Curt and I have posted a couple of more posts on that thread to prove to him that the V161 was the gearbox which featured in the facelift SZ-R, VVTi RZ and VVTi RZ-S models. If someone can post a pic of their VIN plate (engine tag) showing the V161 in an RZ or RZ-S, that would be proof he could not argue against. Just found one:

Yes the TRD is a good option for drag racing. A stronger drive shaft and driveshaft loops as well are also necessary at high power levels. What clutch are you running? What hp level are you aiming at?

The stock 16" wheels will fit over the UK rear brakes with a small amount of grinding if you need to. That allows you to run 16" MT ET Street tires.

The bracket that holds the release fork inside the bell housing broke on my Supra a couple of years ago when it was 6 speed so thats another possibility.

I'm running the 3.538 diff and its at 3150rpm at 62mph on the road. At my redline of 8500rpm, that would be about 167mph top speed assuming the converter didn't slip any more. If you have enough power to go faster at the drags, then change to a 28" tire and/or use the 6 speed 3.266 diff. If I did both those things, my top speed would then be over 200mph.

That's were I got my B&M shifter from.

I think you need the reverse pattern if you want to run a transbrake. You can have the shifter go either way as it works by cable so can be mounted in either direction. Reverse pattern refers to internals in the TH400.

The TH400 I have uses a B&M quickshifter which means the gear change is manual, so you can run any ecu.

It is long gone. I run the plug-in Link G4 which made for an easy swap.

Not yet and its winter here now so no drag racing. I've upped the power to 762whp so more then capable. Just trying to sort out a decent high stall converter at the moment.

Never heard that before. I've got the TRD in my UK spec TT auto diff and I just drove it normally.

You definitely need an intercooler. If you want a shorter path perhaps an air-water intercooler would be an option?

Yeh, they spool pretty well for an 850hp old school turbo.

I have the exact same turbo on my 2JZGTE. Here are some old dyno sheets showing rpm before I went TH400 auto. I did tweak the tune and got it spooling 200rpm quicker later on after these dyno sheets.