Noz

Ah I see, my mistake, must of mis-read your post mate. I would of thought if you cut the carbon fibre but introduced resin into the areas of damage you wouldn't have a problem. That's how I attack fibreglass when I cut it, I would of thought it's a similar process for CF to put the strength back into it as your damage the resin when cutting it. Mitchell may know? I always ask him when I have an odd question google just can't answer

I still dont under why you would get such a rare item, and cut and spray it? Surely you could still mould it without spraying and cutting it. Just mask up the CF, the carbon fibre look on actual products is nice IMO

Why would you cut and fill them? To smooth them in?

Looking good mate.

I'm up for this

looks nice mate

Carbon dip is just a paint job isn't it? Carbon weave is actual carbon fibre, carbon wrap is just plastic looking vinyl - - - Updated - - - Never seen that before, looks awesome

I work out stock gasket to be 0.18mm (2mm), 0.070" thick for a 10:1 compression ratio (86mm bore 71.5mm stroke HG bore etc). Formula states that using 1.2mm HG you get a ratio of 9:1. Using a 0.6mm gasket gives results of a 9.5:1 compression ratio. Using pistons nets you around 9.2:1 doesnt it? I cant confirm that as I can't find decent information on the dome volume of the two pistons so I can't compare them.

Ive never seen carbon archs. I wouldn't just wrap it. get it carbon weaved, will look alot better and more professional.

Looking to offer rings for facelift clocks, would the same pre-facelift ring fit in the same hole? I'm looking into what dimensions would be needed to produce these. Thanks

Further NA-T informaiton: http://thejzforums.forumotion.com/t13-2jz-ge-na-t-basics We really need a section for this NA-T stuff. It's almost as common as wheel offset threads

GE headgasket 0.2mm I beleive.

I stand corrected, I thought the HG was 1.6mm, my mistake. There is an area where this doesn't make a huge amount of difference, both engines can handle twice their power without this being an issue, so with some room for error it might not be the best way, but it won't cause the engine to starve itself completely. I do agree it's not the 'best' way to do it due to flow, but considering there's margin for error you can cause a flow issue without it being too detrimental to the dynamics of flow. I'm not saying a thick HG is the way forward, I just think there is room to lower the effectiveness of flow and still get good results. Screwing up the squish area to an extent where you cause the engine problems obviously isn't recommended, but if you only cause a small problem that the engine can handle and more than double your power then why not. You don't have to do both, it depends what your goal is. Swapping TT pistons is the prefered way of doing it, you can a standard NA gasket with some amazing results. I would rather have a compression ratio too low than have it too high. It depends on your aim and application.

THats the NUTS!

By lowering compression alone then yes your right it would be better to use pistons or both, but the GTE uses a 1.6mm gasket and toyota got that compression ratio with that head gasket, so considering the NA uses a smaller one I think it's worth considering if toyota get twinturbo compression with a gasket then why can't NA-T owners go the same route mate. If it caused knock that bad, how come so many people do it already (clearly not in the UK, as the idea is poo-poo'ed by so many people that haven't tried it, not saying you havent just people in general). This is such a topic of opinions, there are hardly any NA owners following the US NA-T design tactics and doing this, so unless people have used a thicker HG on a 2JZGE I think the research speaks for itself and its definitely worth trying dude. I wouldn't go LS1. They are expensive and not the only thing on the market. There are many other ways to do COP, some of which aren't used often on threads or forums, widen your research to other areas, and more important other engines. Toyota done a decent job of making 2JZ coils, they also designed other systems which are not as commonly looked into, since the 2JZ toyota have continued making engines which people forget sometimes.

60mph tops'ish of course Top speed isn't the issue, it's how fast you get there.

unfinished supra should of stayed matt black IMO

This is worst http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsN_9rKKijk

I'm not really much good at drifting, but I'm pretty good at driving like an idiot Here's me having a laugh with Jimmy James, tyres were nearly cooked and love how much beans that little boosted NA engine takes. Much more fun than being NA, and worth any hassle that comes with it. There are LOADS of better videos than this on youtube of NA-T's, this is purely a video I made while having a lark about. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VvWJp2poWw&feature=relmfu

Mark needs to sort it out then

If you want BPU power than NA-T is the way forward. If you want or aim for higher figures, it's alot more hassle than it's worth. Finanically, unless you do alot of work yourself going higher than BPU will become alot more expensive than buying a TT in the long run. Getting 400-600 BHP from an NA would be cheaper if you do 80% of the work yourself than going TT, but the parts won't be premium and some people would be put off using cheaper parts and the re-sale value won't reflect your modifications. We still need a section on this forum to answer this topic..

I didnt buy direct through them?

Probably the same way as a usual splitter I would imagine. Multiple mounting points, using fair sized bolts and decent washers. I'd think using small bolts and tiny washers you would have the same issue with fibregalss and carbon, not having enough surface area and possibly causing the splitter to crack on the mounting points. The location of the mounting points would obviously depend on the splitter itself. I fitted a plastic one, and due to being ductile I was able to use small nuts and bolts with a number of mounting points. I would of using with something that could crack you would want fairly decent desized washers. Some of the body work guys here may be able to be more help, or even some of the detailers they may have seen different cars have issus and their causes etc.

Thanks matey I was considering buying two to be even, but they told me it wouldn't make a difference. And thinking about having each side react evenly, I supposed its the spring that will have to settle not the damper.

Probably the most sensible thing you've ever said.