sdistc

Not to sound too offensive Lee, but a modified car is never the sum of the cost of the parts. This is why parting out is often more financially beneficial than selling as is. Also, I think given that you've had a few issues with this car you wouldn't be able to say (like for an unmodified example) that it's simply turn-key and drive away - there looks to be quite some expense to rectify the *known* issues plus potentially others that you're unaware of. This will have a tendency to scare off buyers.

I will be meeting up with Fitz somewhere near Richmond in South-East London - so I would expect we'll be on the M4 and then M25 at some time around 9 a.m. If we can rendezvous, I reckon that would be pretty cool

Well, the cat was put back in on advisement during a period of high police scrutiny of modified cars - and admittedly strangles the whole system (laggier, lower power, less responsive etc). Also, we didn't get a huge amount of time after it was finished (Dec) and when I left Australia (Feb) to mess around with setting everything up as well as could be - so potentially there is a bit left in it with regards to spool & boost threshold.

AR is 1.05, I believe. Full boost was whatever I got with a cat installed and usually about 22 psi (this is on the street), and was a bit lower RPM than on the dyno - but still 5k+ from memory (you'll have to forgive me, as it *has* been almost 15 months since I drove it last).

Very little compelling evidence that the billet 4294 is faster spooling than the cast version (which is what I have). I'm not sure that it would be at full boost before 5k (mine certainly isn't, with a twin scroll housing on twin scroll HKS manifold) - but I'd like to see what effect the twin wastegate manifold has on it.

First question is, obviously, why? Stock intake manifold is plenty good for power up to 600-700 hp. How much power do you plan to make if the standard one isn't adequate? Secondly, if you're just after looks then you'll probably end up with something shiny that doesn't perform better than the standard one unless you spend some coin for a VW, Hypertune, Veilside, Greddy or *decent* custom jobbie. Thirdly, by replacing the intake manifold you will lose drive-by-wire, traction control, and some stock sensors for IACV etc. Which will be a pain for you, if this car isn't going to make some decent power to compensate. Cliffs = don't replace it, unless you have to because it's a restriction to your power levels. Hope this helps.

I believe this guy VV said it best.

Oh, in that case you're just a greedy bastard then

Ahh, yes.. this old chestnut. I see it as "turbo foreplay" - a lower boost setting for a while desensitises you to the power, meaning high boost feels like HIGH BOOST again.

Haha Quick question - how many boost settings do you have on your map? If more than 1, do you normally drive on low boost, and turn it up to "play"?

I think a lot of people need to truly experience driving a big power turbo car before they can really appreciate its peccadillos. Obviously this is not a cheap shot at you Jevansio, just that there is a lot of BS online. Lag is an issue, especially with a BIG turbo - but nothing either a quick downshift or two (or if you can think ahead a bit, a bit of brake-boosting) can't fix. However, lag means that you have awesome fuel economy on cruise, ease of driving in urban situations like carparks and schools (no light-switch hipo V8-style tailtwitching), and ability to let your girlfriend decide to drive. Also, the boost controller is your friend. Don't want to play? Wastegate. See a Ferrari looking a bit too smug? 28 psi. In my opinion, for what little that is worth, I am more concerned about the speed (and thus, speeding fines!) than the power I have - I would drive on race fuel at 2 bar all day if I could, as the on-boost rush is always awesome no matter how often I feel it. I don't think I would choose to live with LESS than 500 whp, in any car.

It does depend on the characteristics of your turbo choice, and driving style. If it's a "light switch" type turbo (T78 comes to mind here), then you'll lose traction almost instantly on boost, which can be difficult to handle if you're not experienced. Otherwise, I wouldn't say a 500+ hp car is challenging - as long as you don't act like a fool. Generally, I've seen that Supras are predictable towards the limit. That being said, if required you can certainly keep them sideways from 2nd to 5th 180 treadwear rating would be the upper limit of tyre hardness (i.e. this is the most hard compound I would get) as you will definitely need traction. If you have good weather most of the time, you will get away with running semi-slicks

Apparently there are some doubts as to the accuracy of the timing equipment. It would seem a bit strange to me that all the fastest times are achieved at the Miami Mile, and never backed up at Texas Mile or Maxton. But for what it's worth, until there are a consistent set of rules and regulations on the running of Mile events, all "records" are questionable.

Are you driving, and driving that car on the Ring? Or driving but hiring a Ring racecar? Or flying and hiring a Ring racecar?

Sounds like a plan, Fitzy

As per my post in the main thread - Anyone who needs a lift from London (I will be coming from Tooting) can send me a PM so we can arrange a pickup point. -Andrew

Thought I would just confirm my attendance, now that I have a bit of transport 1. JamieP 2. Homer 3. Slurpy Supra 4. Tooquicktostop (Dean) 5. Wez 6. Fitz - Dyno run 7. AndrewOW 8. Ricky49 9. AndyT 10. Pistonbroke 11. imi 12. Guigsy 13. Mwilkinson - Dyno Run 14. Scotty71 15. dandan 16. Lbm 17. bradleyh_15 - Dyno Run 18. Chingy 19. Pete_TT 20. M5W TT 21. smarty 22. Supra_Surj 23. Rob_boi - Dyno Run 24. TLicense 25. Supradoopa 26. .Supramatt 27. Sakey 28. Stonkin 29. Why T 30. Tom 31. Abz 32. Ark (+ 1 I expect) 33. m_life (possibly) 34. BOB B 35. JustGav 36. Jimojameso 37. tonytt -Dyno Run 38. Gaz6002 39. Fizzle 40. Andrew K 41. Lui 42. scottc998 43. danhicks22 - Dyno Run 44. The Plethora - Dyno Run 45. adnanshah247 46. Lurch 47. DannyB 48. darrenchaplin 49. stuartmooney 50. the punisher 51. kayla 52. miko_supra 53. Heckler (prov - will have to check on date when I get back from Afghan) 54. Supra_Plant 55. LOF7Y 56. supra_steve 57. wiggy1980 58. Suprahuman. Dyno run 59. Branners 60. Gurteen0 61. adam1983 62. GJD - Dyno Run 63. catfish man 64. AlexM 65. Sdistc As I will be coming from South London in the Aristo, anyone needing a lift can PM me

Good to see you expanding your horizons Let me know when you make firmer plans to come over, and I'll give you as much help as I can... especially if you're coming over longer term and bring the car

Looks ridiculously clean - I'm guessing your father-in-law is super anal about cleaning it, as I'm sure he drives it. Hope it finds a worthy new home.

Yeah, I was looking at the more expensive UK/US turbo upgrade, which would be almost on a par with a basic single turbo. But to say *any* turbo upgrade will run without supporting mods is very short-sighted - as this is a JDM upgrade, you'll need bigger injectors & fuel pump at the very least (assuming you have a turbo-back exhaust already), and probably ECU to run higher than 17 psi. Then there's cams or cam gears or water injection.

If you're looking at London, then forget about the trends in the rest of the country - some desirable boroughs have actually RISEN in average value since the "GFC" started, due to the relative scarcity of property in these areas. Clapham, Putney, Wandsworth, Kensington etc have all risen in price. Edit: I meant that any decent property, price lowered or not, in desirable boroughs has been snaffled up as soon as available, irrespective of the global & local economy. Now I'm not saying there may not be a drop in price ever, but it seems highly likely that London will always be that anomaly.

Sorry, I automatically thought that you were meaning the US/UK spec turbo hybrids upgrade, not the JDM blade/shaft replacement set. The US/UK upgrade with the GT28 centres are the only one I would consider for the expense vs benefit. Plus there doesn't seem to be much hard data to support the JDM upgrade, unlike the GT28 upgrade.

I'm assuming you've looked at the prices for the S4S kit and a single turbo, and realised you'll get more hp for less cost with a small single - but want to stay with the sequential setup anyway? If this is the case, most of the hybrids over here have been locally produced (and much MUCH cheaper than the S4S ones) and only very few seem to be rated well.

Nice.

I think Mike knew that I was kidding.