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Everything posted by Delboy52
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Photobucket really did pull a fast one by blocking all image hosting unless money is coughed up. I've updated my old links as I when I find them to a different host (http://www.flickr.com) but it takes a little time to do it. Using a phone and burping photos straight up onto Facebook gets your instant dopamine hit a lot quicker and easier, but more hassle to find some info that has been said after some time has passed.
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guys help a girl out....stock fuel pressure at idle...urgent!!!!!
Delboy52 replied to tephanie's topic in mkiv Technical
Info from USA Supraforums Toyota GTE Service Specs... Fuel Pressure at Idle w/vacuum hose disconnected is 33-40psi (2.3 - 2.8 kgf/cm) Fuel Pressure at Idle w/vacuum hose connected is 24-31psi (1.7 - 2.2 kgf/cm) Correct fuel pressure at idle doesn't necessarily confirm a correct fuel pressure at boost. Fuel pressure should always be 36 psi. above the intake manifold boost pressure at all times. example...10psi boost =46psi FP, 15psi boost=51psi FP, 20psi boost = 56psi FP Toyota GE Service Specs... Fuel Pressure at Idle w/vacuum hose disconnected is 38-44psi (2.7 - 3.1 kgf/cm) Fuel Pressure at Idle w/vacuum hose connected is 28-34psi (2.0 - 2.4 kgf/cm) -
The time & day day is clear for me to get there at the moment, hope I can make it https://london.acecafe.com/meets/?cm=4&cy=2018&ct= 18:00 - 22:30
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This is another source for part diagrams. I checked for the shifter to see if it was covering the tiptronic version and it is. The parent directory is here The tiptronic valve body separator plate looks to be part number 35406-14010
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I've looked into how this happened to mine and a guy on Pistonheads had the same thing happen. Thread I didn't notice part of the instructions on the CTEK charger and that probably contributed to the demise of my battery. If running an Optima or Odyssey dry cell battery the charger needs to be in option 3 AGM mode. This will fast charge the battery and allow it to discharge some before charging up again, preventing prolonged heat build up which these battery types hate in particular. Attached a pic from the CTEK 5.0 manual. Full instructions here Have replaced the busted battery with 2 of the same brand and type for a larger charge capacity wired in parrallel, and will use the same CTEK charger as before, as it's very good. This time it'll be in AGM mode for this type of battery
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David P has a transminssion group full of info. There is a thread specifically about identifying gearboxes here: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=153&do=discuss Regarding paying for membership, is it in your profile settings? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/usercp.php
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I have a CTEK 5.0 battery charger keeping my Odyssey battery in shape whilst the Supra is not in use. I don't think it's a failing of the charger, but more the 4 year age of the battery and one too many full discharges over it's lifetime whilst away from home for extended times. Woke up yesterday to a strange eggy smell in the house and found it to be coming from the garage (integrated) where I found a very warm battery along with the attached 0 gauge leads. The battery was expanding like a muffin! The charger was indicating half charge at the time but as the battery was so warm I guess it was still trying to cycle charge/discharge the battery? Worth checking up on the trickle charging batteries to make sure everything is still fine.
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Here's is a thread with some updated dashes. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?341600-Dash-pictures&p=4213670#post4213670 And a Defi dash project http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?346400-Defi-dash
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£100 - Collected from Milton Keynes, or can arrange a partway exchange. My old wheels are available since being replaced. They are not buckled and ran fine on my car, have some kerb scuffs. Not the prettiest as have been sprayed satin black by the previous owner, and the paint is flaking. All with tyres but they are mostly old and near the end of their usefulness. Still legal though. Tread is 2-4mm on the fronts and rear left, 6mm on the rear right (it was a new one). One hub cap is missing Front: 2x 8j 18" +35. Tyres, 235/40/R18 Rear: 2x 9.5j 18" +35. Tyres, 265/35/R18 What they looked like on the car in 2011
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Here's a boot lid: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?342611-Boot-lid I think a rear crash bar popped up on the Supra parts Facebook page a week or so ago. It took me ages to source a 2nd hand one when I needed it though. As Rider said, easy to get a new one from Toyota that isn't rotting already. I weather sealed and waxoiled mine inside and out which I'd recommend doing whether you find a used or get a new one. Copper slip the bolt threads too so they don't rot. Water can run down and all over those bolts.
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I have an ECU but no switch. - Active spoiler ECU - £25 + delivery - 89750-14010
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It's a little bigger than the M112 in litre capacity so should have more scope to make numbers and less heat build up trying. The stock figures on the 5.0 Mustang are 440rwhp, tunable to 550rwhp (source). What it can do with a litre less displacement from my engine is yet to be seen. The manifold is a shortened 1UZ VVTi lower section. It was made by Chuck Fast in west Canada who has done others before on the non VVTi motor including his own. I have to think for a moment, what is still original to the car.. Back seats and the parcel blind I think I left the car and 4 brand new wheels and tyres with Chris so he would hold all the geo settings.
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Thanks everyone! Yep, really happy with it and just what I wanted. Finishing off on a few things should occupy me until the weather improves this year. I'll keep it NA until my joblist is clear and I've actually driven it about for a change. I had to keep moving the car whilst photographing it yesterday as a wedding was in progress and guests would turn up every 5 minutes. One in a 4x4 kindly found a puddle to splash up one side as they passed. Nice! Your NA box valve body is now in my hybrid. It was in very good condition and perfect for the job
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To celebrate my 1000th post to this Supra club , here's some pics of the final appearance revision of my Supra. It was glass-out resprayed in September this year, and just got the car back from Chris Wilson who has setup the geometry and upgraded the brake/fuel lines. Me and DavidP practicaly replaced all the front suspension components for new so it could be setup correctly, and a whole heap of other work throughout the year. I bought the wheels on Christmas day last year so it only took me 12 months to get them on the car Has had a few disguises in my ownership There are plenty of niggles to sort out still, but I'd like to bring it to some shows in the new year. The car has been in so much turmoil of ongoing work it looked a bit of a mess for long time and was on and off the road. Next big step forward, standalone ECU and this GT500 M122. Thank you to everyone that has helped me along with this project, especially David. All the best for 2018 everyone
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Looks to have been well looked after. Lovely car, well done finding such a clean one!
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Thanks everyone The wheels are Work CR-2P. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?341064-Test-fit-of-my-custom-made-Work-CR-2P-wheels Well spotted It took me a long time to find one, and then persuade the owner to sell it to me Not many about, I really like the style being a sleeker OE look.
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The bodyshop (can I name them here?) have published on their FB page more work-in-progress pics not seen before and also the finished article. Itching to get the Work wheels on for a good photo session and maybe a Suprapod 2017 appearance before the drizzle and dank become a permanent fixture for this year. Once the damaged wheel replacement arrives (still on a romantic cruise from Japan to UK) and the new tyre swapped on, I then need to get the rims Feynlab protected. After that, the suspension gets adjusted to take the new wheels. Am hoping Chris has an opening this year for that job.
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From the album: Supra Build
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From the album: Supra Build
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From the album: Supra Build
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From the album: Supra Build