DSK

I do this but it always results in idiots consistently tailgaiting and pulling out into your space

We sell invoit alloys. To be honest, they are OK for the max power brigade but thats it. The alloys are actually quite heavy with the weight on side side of the alloy. (Standard or premium alloys have the weight distributed evenly through the wheel). Lastly the finish isn't that strong, its OK if you keep the wheels clean etc, but a couple of winters in and they'll be looking sorry. You may be better off going with the offering from Rota as they do an almost identical style alloy and the quality will be better. I think Paul Whiffin may even be able to work out an offer price on these if his offer is still running.

No offence, but IMO, that splitter looks foul and well out of place. However the Ridox side skirts that are offered by Paul Whiffin are very nice.

Can't beat heated seats in this weather

LOL, seen a few Supra's in Leicester and Coventry, posted up here but they don't appear to be any club members. Other than that I thought I'd see lots of you down south but in a week I saw nothing and checked the forum to see if anyone had spotted me if they were in a daily driver, works vehicle etc. Ah well, I guess I will have to spend more time down south before seeing more of you on the roads

Nice, but if he did that down my street I'd shoot him

Racking up some serious mileage, having spent a whole week in around Windsor, Uxbridge and pottering about London, I have seen no Supra's and no one has seen me. Even saw a blue Supra with some kit on it in Leicester today, didn't recognise it as a club members car, but the I gave the driver a bikers style 'nod'. Other than this I'm just up & down the motorways

Until you start hitting the 30 insurance is a bit a grey area. Your quote seems a bit pricey to me, considering the fact that I was insuring group 16-18 cars for that when I was around your age many years ago. However, I am certain, on that type of car with the 5 yrs NCB, you should be able to bring that quotation down - you just have to do it the old fashioned way .... get the yellow pages and start phoning the insurers listed in it and any others you may find on the likes of gocompare.com

Best of luck finding a solution other than locking it down. But as mentioned its not really ideal for city use, you never know when you'll come to an horrid speed bump or if you let someone else drive your car, they will bump it whilst parking upto a kerb or something.

I'm BPU and after asking for advice I ended up opting for a new Whifbitz uprated SMIC unit. Nice fit.

Nothing, as I use Garage786 right first time, every time

Keron tends to have N/A cars for breaking so sourcing a direct OE replacement shouldn't be too costly or hard. An alternative would be a stainless steel de-cat kit from someone like Paul Whiffin. (UK spec TT de-cats were about £215 from Paul Whiffin, J-spec TT ones are around £185, so yours should be a bit below that I guess).

I never doubted Ash's mechanics workmanship, only reason I went for the repairs and trusted them with BPU is they get things right first time everytime! Comprehensive testing of the 02 sensors along with a trip to an MOT station for a detailed emissions test all indicated VERY positive results so its not the 02 sensors. All pipe work is in tact as before etc. So I went on my way and after work decided to increase the gain on my boost controller. Here are the results; Previous Settings; Duty Cycle = closed loop > 45 Gain = 10 Boost = 1.25 bar The Duty Cycle was set with the addition of fuelling and other computer equipment and this was the highest I could run. So I left that as is. The manufacturer stated that the gain should be generally 10 points less than the duty cycle. TEST RUN 1 Duty Cycle = closed loop - 45 Gain = 19 Boost = 0.9 bar RESULT = much more torque, closer to what it was like standard TEST RUN 2 Duty Cycle = closed loop - 45 Gain = 26 Boost = 0.9bar RESULT = even more torque, just ever so slightly less than standard Despite a few carrigeway sprints just seeing what the revs are like, how its changing gear, hows its pulling etc, my fuel gauge HAD NOT moved and the car drove as it did prior to the upgrades TEST RUN 3 Duty Cycle = closed loop - 45 Gain = 33 Boost = 0.9 bar RESULT = much more torque! Simply stupid bang as soon as the trubo's are in you're off, no f*cking about, no spooling just plain performance. Oh and my fuel gauge still hadn't moved! So despite the wet conditions, I tried played exiting a few roundabouts seeing how brave I was and how the car handled them on/off power. Have to very very careful in the wet, you can still push it but there is NO room for error. The wollop the moment the sligest hint of pressure is applied and the car shoots forward rather than a simple strong satisfying surge. TEST RUN 4 Duty Cycle = closed loop - 45 Gain = 34 Boost = 1.42 bar RESULT = mental so eased it upto 130mph and floored it to simulate some motorway my c'cks bigger than your c'ck stuff. Simply instant and savage to the extent it made me feel comfortable whilst deploying power, so first time in history - I backed down whilst swearing at myself. Drive Home Duty Cycle = closed loop - 45 Gain = 33 Boost = 0.9 bar Car now drives like it did before the upgrades, silky smooth perfect gear changes, correct reaction to throttle inputs, lots of low down torque (at least the same as standard but feels stronger), absolute no lag on the turbos, just instant take off, car pulls itself along as effortlessly as it did before so now I am always pretty much just covering the throttle rather than having to press it at all. FUEL ECONOMY is about normal!

New O2 sensors @ Toyota are around £150+vat So hoping if 1 has been damaged its just the one!

BPU should take around the similar amount of fuel unless you hammer it, in which case it should obviously take more. I got mine from Aberdeen > Nottingham on 1 tank of fuel. Driving sensibly with the odd bursts. Whilst trying to be as gentle as possible (which I did not have to do before), its taking over twice the amount of fuel it should! Very strange how such an alarming amount of fuel is suddenly being used. Going in tomorrow to have the 02 sensors tested and looksee over all the work that was done on the off chance something is spotted and then take it from there...... If it cannot be solved then unfortunately I will no longer be able to keep the car as I'm already taking a taxi to work as it works out far cheaper!

Thanks Ian_C. The 2nd 02 bolts were rusted and had to be cut off with a grinder. It was then mounted into the de-cats with new bolts. I will get this tested on Saturday. I will also print off your link. Thanks.

welcome and best of luck with your search

Ooooh I will contact him about this! May be something I may have done middle of next year.

After the work was completed and the car started up, I could smell it was quite rich but this was intially put down to a cold start. However over recent days I have noticed that it now always smells rich (prior to the work and BPU and it smelt fine). During set-up of the boost controller they had fitted an AFR (air/fuel) gadget to the exhaust and relaying it to a computer inside the car to run higher boost. No issues to indicate a weak fuel mix were reported. However I think from the smells its fair to say I am running rich.... but why/how is the question?

Even I can't get away with that just clueless as usual

No, UK has steel ones and J-spec has ceramic ones

Many thanks. The 2nd O2 sensor was unbolted to remove the CAT but was then bolted straight back into the de-cat pipe. Not sure how how this could just stop working but will ask the garage to test.

Thanks for this Ian_C :thumbsup After reading this I think I'll let the pro's handle sorting it all out. For the info, the car was 100% before and was BPU'd last week. On full chat it feels great and very powerful, but seems to lack low down torque and has started guzzling fuel since BPU even when I am trying very hard to feather it about. Prior to BOu I could get from Nottingham > Leicester, go for some high speed overtakes, enjoy the waft of torque etc and the car's fuel gauge would barely move.

I have read and linked to some external sources that the search/similar threads results threw up but I am non the wiser and some had complicated looking calculations! Been out for a steady drive this morning with no traffic. You can hear the whistle of when turbos start to spool at around 1,200rpm with the minute-ist of feathering on the throttle. This usually was the case at around 1,800rpm on inclines and around 2,200rpm on flats. With the same thing happening pretty much from idle, my car is guzzling fuel when I am just trying to potter about. I think my duty cycle on my Gizmo MS-IBC may be set too high and I need to have a go at reducing it (hoping this may make the whooshing sound of the turbo spooling to come in a little later rather than react to nearly every throttle movement of my right foot). However, I fudementally do not understand what the duty cycle is. Can someone please explain in plain simple english what the duty cycle is, and if I was to reduce it or increase it what actually happens?

Motoria s/s cat back on UK spec MK4 TT with whifbitz double de-cat.