Kirk

Fair enough. The term 'build' in general means new rods and pistons, possibly a new crank, so if your not doing any of that then i wouldnt realy class it as built ??

Wait is this now a project thread?

If your building the engine then why put in used TT pistons? Would make more sence to replace with new TT spec pistons.

Ah sod it then... im tinkering with other ideas now anyway so you can have it chris if you dont find one Its fully stripped of its valvetrain though. Dont know whether this would matter

Think of the cost of going single on a TT and there you have the answer

Ive got one on the kitchen table as it so happens chris But id need it back eventualy

Yeah sure no problem

Yes he was a member on here and ran 500+ with a full standalone.. forget his name but 500 has been achieved. Think he wrote the car off though

Only one way to find out for sure is to measure it properly. A rough guess would say around 9:0:1 which id say is a good medium to build on. Never fit a TT HG with TT pistons!

I like that Got to like a porsche although i much prefer the round headlamps

Dude i think your avatar is awesome

Probly drop it to around the high 8s mark i suspect. Its impossible to tell without actualy working it out properly. I maintain though when lowering CR it should always be done through the piston and not the HG

Totaly off topic but what is that shiny tank in the back of your car?

22% And i thought we had it bad

The NA HG is less than 0.5mm thick compared to the TT 1.3mm HG As i said in my most recent post my opinion on that has changed after looking more closely at it. If you were to skim the recess out then yes you would need a TT hg, perhaps even thicker HG to get it back to NA CR depending on how much needs removing but now I now dont think this would be a good idea looking at the angles on which the cooling passages are drilled. A fair bit mate sadly

equaly as funny! J you just been told

Although as i said a single cross with harness bar and a fitment onto the top of the rear struts is what would interest me

Bit of a bump.. This afternoon whilst i was bored i took some measurements with the limited measuring equipment i have a home i.e. a digi caliper guage Intake valve is 33.61mm Exhaust valve is 29.26mm Intake port is oblong and measures 48.54mm wide and 36.87mm in height (to its highest point) Exhaust port is round and measures 35.50mm wide. Headness thickness top to bottom is just shy of 5" at 4.8" Now prior to what i said before i dont think the head will skim flat as there are coolant passages that are drilled at an angle and i suspect they would start walking very close to the combustion chamber. Also id hazard a guess that you would then need a thicker HG to make up for the piston to valve clearances as i suspect they would be to close but again im no expert on these things as im still learning but im just going off what i can see and what i know (which isnt alot )

Very interested as ive started looking at vvti for something im currently looking into

I keep that dealership in business! Without me it wouldnt be there nomore

As I said whenever I go in for bits a get a huge amount and he gives some cracking discount. If I went in for just pads I'd probly get 15% off at most

I also might ad be also good to have removable front bars for when not using on the track Just a few ideas i thought id throw your way

Ah well that wont solve the problem then, sorry mate

See i would say a single diagonal with harness bar would be better Also id say change the bolting of the rear from the side of the seat to the top of the suspension struts but going through the 1/4 trim like the cusco ones do. Looks far more cleaner IMO