Kirk

Seriously...? people still fall for this nonsense?

decat - Just makes the car noisier and free's up a couple of HP remap - Can't be done with out some form of piggy back or standalone ecu. Even then its a waste of time and money fit turbo - Best option really but not cheap to do it right and you will be limited to the amount of boost you can make. The gearbox won't stand up to the increase of torque for very long unless you drive it like its on life support which defies the whole point of extra HP. the cost and expected increase in BHP - Anywhere around 2k - 5-6k+ depending on parts used, who builds it and how far you push it. Again engine will be limited on boost so at a guess 350-400hp at most.

Easily! Could double your money by putting the caliper covers back on ebay.

But it has brembo brake covers. Surely worth an extra 50p at least..!

It's a track car, not a road car ffs.

Question D, wouldn't it of been easier to convert to an auto rad and plumb the PS pipes into that, utilising the built in cooler? A bit late now granted!

Easiest and quickest way is to take the long bolt out of the top wishbone then pull the lot down in one (obviously with bolts undone on the shockers). The only slight niggle you have is the passenger side due to the washer bottle placement but this method does save having to remove the drop links.

Havards has been running on super 3000 5w40s for the past year with no issues. Supras are spec'd at 5w30 from factory so if it was a bit smokey running anything thinner than what you currently have I'd say you have weak seals. Thicker oil is only going to mask the issue. Edit: Link to article mentioned by Tyson http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?273699-Oil-Supra-TT-Castrol-EDGE-10W-60&p=3451348&viewfull=1#post3451348 Its completely unnecessary for a bpu in my eyes.

Agreed!

Don't listen to the voices mate. I've been close to doing it myself but financially its not worth jumping the gun! Patience Hulk...!

A horrible one..!!

Did we? Shows how little attention i've been paying as of late..!!

Ah, I assumed wrongly that you were much further along! Now when I say jack it up I meant wind the jack up directly underneath the ball joint. I know the entire assembly will just push up when jacked up but it's usually enough to prevent the joint from spinning away. Obviously this doesn't really work for the upper wishbone

Alternatively a technique I used to use when working on the deck is to get yourself a small scissor or bottle jack(assuming you're doing it on the floor) and jack it up on the ball joint. Should be enough pressure on it to prevent it spinning.

Hovis.

Nice work John. You're a braver man than me!

Of course! He's not all that well equipped, a bit dodgy looking and also I hear he's quite the extortionist!

Because in this modern age there's mechanic's and then there's "mechanics"

Wise choice.

Hello Peter from Manchester, I am Martin from Manchester.

Wrong way round Tim. Did the slave first, turned out to be the master cylinder and most likely the problem you are experiencing.

Why did you remove the hub? The drive shafts come away without the need to do that.

It's an auto..

Chris what is it you use to lock the flywheel and how much would one of these tools set me back as I seem to of misplaced mine.