paul mac

any expoxy would do, Araldite etc, make sure it will do aluminium, handle a bit of temperature and the inevitable hydrocarbon exposure, i picked up a decent one recently from Halfords for my throttle body project, Unibond Repair Power Epoxy Metal it ticks all the right boxes

a suitable epoxy would do for what your asking, i can vouch for JB weld i stuck all my bonnet together with it due to the ally being so thin welding would have destroyed it, when using structural adhesives surface area is everything, the more surface area glued the stronger the joint will be, go for a slow curing adhesive and clamp the items well, the fast set stuff usually compromises a bit of strength for the cure time, roughen the surfaces and clean with celulose thinners, oh and follow the instructions

the front "crash bar" in reality is a bit of very light weight aluminium designed to crumple in the event of a low speed shunt and protect the end of the chassis rails and the radiator, in the event of a life threatening frontal impact it will do absolutely nothing so from a safety point of view i would not worry about it, to have any effect it would have to be as substantial as the rear crash bar which is built to brick sh*t house proportions and is designed to protect the fuel tank in a rear end impact

i have often though about this and could probably be driving a Ferrari with the money i have spent on the Supra , but then again i enjoy modding so i'll stick with the Supra for now

i did a bit of research on it and it equals (and in some cases exeeds) all the standards the "cool" named synthetics have, i am sure i read somewhere its produced for Halfords by Shell and as its tried and tested in my car (which now has some pretty high miles) i'm not paying over the odds for some fancy named oil made by a niche manufacturer with very small production runs and hence an inflated price tag

this thread is so old, its now 9 years and still going strong with Halfords, mind you it is about £32 a pop so its not exactly cheap, just worked out i have probably used about 100 litres of the stuff and about 20 Lexus V8 oil filters over the years

you should get 500hp on a 2.5" system, my car made this with HKS superdragger which has a section in it less than 2.5"

like the idea with the twin thermocouple Dan, where did you get it from and does it have the juction in the tip

that doesn't include the hydraulic pack and you will also need the SMG ecu, main engine ecu, steering wheel paddles, shift lever, drivelogic control, longitudinal acceleration sensor, dash display and a steering angle sensor, not that i'm remotely interested of course

he's a busy guy, telephones one millenium, tuning engines the next

noooo this is how the FPR gets its reference, buy yourself a good book such as "forced induction tuning" by A.Graham Bell

the problem with weight saving i feel is its all or nothing, you either put your car on an extreme diet or not, the half measures inbetween are really not noticable, you will only get noticable performance increases once you are dropping something like a 100kg + from the car which unfortunately takes a lot of comittment

i'm sure this has been at least talked about before (if not done) there is no reason why you cant do it, however you might get to the point where the flow loss through all the pipework and bends actually outweighs the benefit of the larger frontal area of two smics, there are cars on the board running 600hp on a single smic so how much power are you looking for

spot on, didn't realise we were talking stock twins

thats more like it, or better still with the money you have saved on a turbo timer buy something usefull and fit an oil temp gauge, then you know exactly how long you need to cruise before shutting the engine down

i have to say, as someone who once called your Castrol affair "one of the worst cars on the forum" that is looking pretty damm tidy, vast improvement

really cheap http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3-Pc-2-5lb-CLUB-HAMMER-AND-BOLSTER-CHISEL-SET_W0QQitemZ390083968114QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ?hash=item5ad2d0fc72&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

sorry mate these coolers are cheap for a reason, ie they're crap, they are a very poor design and as far as i can tell are really a supliment to a "big ol V8" pulling a Winibago, i do have one on my car but its still there because i couldn't be bothered ripping it out, i now have it in series with a decent mocal oil cooler which probably does about 85% of the cooling, dont be fooled by the fact these are labeled a "transmission cooler", an oil cooler is an oil cooler regardless of what kind of oil its cooling, the very first thing you need is a temperature gauge on the transmission to see whats going on

i'm glad somebody got my reference to 34D

i can feel another project coming on and a point of interest the BMW SMG gearbox is built by Getrag

yeah me to

holy moly just had a look at the BMW SMG hydraulicaly controlled manual gearboxm, in "race mode" it can change gear in 0.08 of a second , these boxs (in relative terms) are not that expensive, i wonder what power they could hold

in the correct context theres nothing wrong with a 34D

this would have been exactly what you want http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=183500&highlight=th400 i hope its for drag racing as its not going to be very pleasant to drive on the roads

i dont think you can use a harness bar and still retain the use of the rear seats