Guigsy

[video=youtube;-MnELifX3sQ] never realised fatboy slim played bass on that.

Yep mate. Good luck! hope you get the big 1000, turbo looks big enough! my blue uk is there ATM. You will prob see it parked up with Dragonball stickers still on it

Not difficult to make if the garage has all the equipment. Iv never seen aftermarket ones. The main ones that go at the rear are available but I wanted them all done.

Also to add I think the front section. Are no longer available from Toyota. And the garage had to make some up.

I'm up for anything now I have my car back

I wouldn't want to own a single done for 3k. I'd rather have a bpu with a new set of turbos. More reliable for one. Along with other reasons (part quality stc). Sure it's "oh wow single turbo" but its a bit like buying a car cover from halfords and calling it garage it will protect the car from the elements. But it's going to blow away eventually

great work as always gives me goosebumps

My uk car never got much over 400bhp. 500 is a long way off. And you never see a bpu hybrid turbo car that much over 450 unless your in the USA. And don't bother with uk turbos. They are actualy smaller than jspecs so they don't get the hybrid treatment. Even my small single gt35r (you dont go any smaller) makes 520bhp

its got wipers. you can see them in the first picture

Me and evinx spoke to keron about this last week. As far as he knows. They are all felt rather than plastic. The only plastic ones he has seen have been on lhd cars

Yeah. It wouldn't cost much to change that. Manual too

titan sell them. i have one. similar price iirc. https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/733845_10151509383339259_1574546966_n.jpg

just a quick bump to this thread after my issues on dragonball... https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1013413_10151643647474259_1761724317_n.jpg My fuel lines were also starting to go.

And a manual car isn't going to be a second quicker 0-60. The fastest cars down the strip when you compare like for like are autos. Unless you have a very skilled driver who has done many many runs

General driving? No need and if the road is cambered or not much grip the rear end can slide sideways. Your probably not doing the transmition/torque converter any good if you do it all the time. It's also not good car control. You shouldn't need to be on the brake and accelerator at the same time at all during daily driving. At the strip. Foot hard on brake. Pump it a few times. Then on the Accelerator until the rear wheels are about to spin. They will only take a few 1000 rpm and if you have jspecs probably even less. Then release the brake while pressing the accelerator, and off you go. Takes a bit of practice.

i like it. the area is small enough any bigger and it would be silly.

a fibreglass one would be comparitively easy to make. though id imagine getting it out of the mould without warping would be a nightmore.

leave it as they are. black wheels on that colour car would look terrible light silver suits it well

i just spent 1/3rd your budget inc labour having a head rebuild with standard valves and springs etc and without porting and polishing... and for 1000bhp your probably going to have to spend 10k on the head alone. and probably not far off building the engine. then there is fuel system. ecu is easy 3-4k on its own after mapping. so unfortunately your 10k is WAY off. 30k is a good figure. but i dont think it would get you 1000bhp. id say more like 50k

Eep. Sounds difficult to track who caused the issue and even if you could they would deny it and blame someone else. But from what you say to me it doesn't sound the fault of the last guy. Whoever that is.

Mines a good 30 deg and never has problems

Mine used to do this occasionally after being sat for a while. It was a sticky valve in the boost pipework/exhaust. After a fre runs giving it 100% throttle it freed its self up and has been fine since. Other than that it might be a blown 2nd turbo. But I'd imagine you would be getting more significant pointers towards that. I'm no mechanic though. So take that with a pinch of salt till someone who knows what they are doing posts

yeah. glad they found that pipe on the down pipe. you couldnt eve see it in the position it was down there.

i recomend the vid at the end. i love the noise hopefully ill update this with more pics when i get it to the bodyshop. i have a abflug type 1 bonnet and rear bumper to go on that have been sat in the garrage and a load of interior bits. The bay is far from perfect. its still a bit ratty and neads a clean. Im waiting on some nice red ajustable cam pulleys from Titan, and i have a clear cover for them and i have already painted the spark plug cover white.

Idler bearing is noisy and had play so a new one was orderd https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/294767_10151598313809259_794239694_n.jpg 1 x broken injector connector, 1 x broken cam position connector https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/942041_10151598313859259_1644949619_n.jpg This coolant pipe mentioned above. It had been resting on the downpipe. Only the wrap on the downpipe has stopped it melting completely and spraying coolant everywhere! Its a 4" downpipe so there isnt much space back there. https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/942476_10151600585309259_1371233132_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/320346_10151600585784259_1322619613_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/431908_10151600585884259_2011730141_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/7296_10151604040959259_472437110_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/575720_10151600585614259_158985723_n.jpg Plenum painted https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/5388_10151600585714259_264277045_n.jpg almost there https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/401865_10151600586019259_599408612_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/960182_10151604040929259_1771465810_n.jpg The cause of the fraying belt... The ati crank pully. It was a very tight fit. ATI hole diameter 34.95mm Toyota Stock crank Pulley 35.04mm The ATI had been fitted with an interference fit!!! New one ordered from Toyota. https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/969419_10151611549564259_635008690_n.jpg nice big breathers https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/942891_10151616577474259_2086121401_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/945751_10151616577524259_270594333_n.jpg The fuel rail was installed without spaces to give the fuel return line clearance. This was fixed. https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/10356_10151616577454259_248642454_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/576815_10151616577459259_44982648_n.jpg Previously the car was running 1.2 bar and that made 520 at the fly (i think) The car was then given a map tweak. This run was 1.2 bar and it hit 520 at the hubs. Click for the vid. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151693331868899 Its now running 1.4 but i forgot to ask what the final number was The car still has a little cold start niggle that Dan was sure he had nailed so im taking the car back and he will be fixing that FOC for me. Along with all the above its had a new set of plugs and a tonne of new gaskets. Also there was a couple of little oil leaks that were sorted out. But i dont remember where they were from off the top of my head. Im sure they also did some other bits and pieces. i cant remember. Ah yes. The oil pressure warning light on my SPA guage wasnt working. that was just a dry solder joint. which they fixed. and they also made my pillar pod allign up properly. So i drove the car to work after i picked it up yesterday and i it drives like a dream. Boosts great. and i feel like i can drive it and enjoy it with no feer of it blowing up like i always did before