Chris and Alana

I agree, and you wonder why hes being funny, LOL. Anyway, dont worry about it, just think your at home relaxing with his daughter while hes at work having to do something for a change

Hi guys, Could any of you kind people that have already calabrated your G-readdy FCD please let me know what setting it needs to be on to take fuel cut out upto 1.2 bar. Im getting one early next week and it would save me farting about with it (Im not lazy or anything:d ) Thanks guys

Yes they come with instructions on how to fit the dials, you need a little super glue aswell to keep them in place. but as for wiring it just says connect to a live, it doesnt give you a clue if you can use your original dimmer switch or to use a big chunky live or if a little weedy live will do. The one I used was quite thin but so was the cig lightrer wiring which was my other choice. If you use the cig lighter wiring it doesnt work with the original dimmer switch though and then you have to use the switch that came with them Oh, when you finally get everything in dont touch the back of the switch that comes with the dials because when you touch the bare soldered joints and flick the switch you get a nasty shock, I know it's only 12v but for some reason it smarts.

LOL, there's that much bird crap on my car I couldnt wipe every individual one off it needs a good wash, it was gleeming this morning aswell after a good wash and polish yesterday (I knew there was no point doing that but I did anyway, Il learn)

I done mine this way because I didnt want that ugly switch anywhere in sight and as I only wanted my dials blue and never green it made sense for me and like I said works with the original dimmer switch aswell. I just wrapped the swith in pipe insulation and tied it behind the dash, job done.

Car cover may be useful and Iv thought about buying one until I seen how expensive they are but I may have to bite the bullet (or maybe the birds will) Oh and I dont park next to trees but there are alot of them a couple streets away which seems like where they are coming from. Oh well off to tesco soon . . . . . again

Hi guys, I fitted new dials today and noticed the buld housing for the warning light was gone so I stole the one from the petrol low indicator and when I put everything back together the warning light is constantly on. Iv had a search and some usful stuff but does anyone know what it could be. It did have a active spoiler but not anymore as it has a top secret front but I disconnected the switch, would that be enough or do I have to disconnect the wiring from the active spoiler ECU? The air bag light is always on aswell, could this also be a cause? Iv lived with the air bag light since I bought it because it didnt bother me. There are no other lights that come on with the warning light apart from that.

does anyone else hate it when bids shit on your car? there must be thousands of birds that roost or something near my house because EVERY day at about 5pm thousands of them fly around and shit everywhere (most of it hits my car ) and Iv got to wash it everyday Iv give up hand washing it now I go down to Tesco and blast the stuff off with the jet wash and then spary wax all over the car ready for the next assault. Just had a thought

I got the dials from the group buy on here, there also on ebay, there from visual performance.

I took the power supply from the light for the sig lighter for my dials. It may not be the best but my dials dont come with an inline fuse and it doesnt tell you what they draw so I figured take it from a half decent size wire with a low fuse. They also work now with the original dimmer swith.

I paid 10K for my GZ 8 months ago

I have a first decat and a blitz nur spec r (the second cat is still in) and I overboosted to 18-20psi before fuel cut kicked in. Iv got a restrictor ring in now amd a nice steady 15psi. Anyway my point is is that you can overboost and still get boost creep (like me ) with one cat still in.

Hi psymon, is this still available

here you go http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=uk-en&FC2=/uk-en/tailored/shell_for_motorists/fuels/vpower_p/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/uk-en/tailored/shell_for_motorists/fuels/vpower_p/vpower_p_about_ga_1602.html

Im sure V-power is 99RON, the old Optimax was 98RON and it wouldnt make sense to change to a lesser quality petrol unless they just changed the name but Im sure I read it was 99 aswel, Il try and find it somewhere

hi guys, is there any FCD that raises the 1.0bar limit but doesnt remove it completely apart from the TRL (Thor) one?

I heard or read I cannot remember which that V-power was 99 RON also

Hi guys I know BPU questions are getting a bit boring but I keep reading that you cannot 'class' yourself as 'BPU' until both cats are removed. Take mine for example, I have Standard j-spec Turbos Stock air box with apexi panel filter HKS SSQV NGK BKR7EIX (iridium plugs) Walbro GSS 342 fuel pump Thor FCD Whifbitz 1st decat pipe Blitz Nur Spec R exhaust restrictor ring Now Im running 15psi which is just over 1bar, now even with the second cat in I could reach 1.2bar by just widening the hole in RR (I know because it boosted over 1.2 bar before I put the RR in) but I want to buy a EBC in the near future so I have some control over boost. oh I also have a new Miami GT SMIC coming soon. Anyway Im not bothered about saying 'Yeah Im BPU ' but from what Iv read 'your not BPU until both cats are out' why is that true if for example I can create the same boost and probably the same power but still have the second cat in? Sorry Im bored so thought I would ask. Oh just to clear up further I know you have to be at about 1.2bar to be BPU but like I said I know it will boost to that and Im not going to go out to my car and fidle with my ring for hours just to say I actually have 1.2bar so can we just pretent for this question.

RR sizeing is a pain in the arse, I hav a Nur spec R and a 2.5" 1st decat and I was overboosting and getting boost creep with the second cat still in so I put a 2" rr in and got 12 psi so I took it out filed it a bit, measured the size for future reference and put it back in but 7 attempts later I couldnt be arsed measuring the size and eventually got a steady 15psi. Anyway not to helpful but my point is I think its trial and error or in and out if you like until you get it right but what a pain . .. . . Good luck.

well i have a 265/35/18 on my rears. thats with a 9" width alloy so your current profile sounds about right. The wider the wheel the smaller the profile to keep the wheel and tyre as close to stock as possible. Try a search there was a thread or a link somewhere about what tyre size to use compared to wheel width. As for the tyres I dont think I would change mine from the F1's s but Iv heard the toyo T1'r is supposed to be good aswell but Iv never used them.

Alot of people including me find the Goodyear Eagle F1's with the GS-D3 tread pattern one of the best. I use them and the grip in the dry and wet is very good and they dont wear out that quick either, mind there not cheap.

PM'd

hi guys, does anyone have any polished pipes to replace the standard black hoses going to the SMIC. and into the throttle body. Cheers

Thanks everyone And yeah I got my first real kill too, I posted that this morning but I got my kill last night, close enough though. Iv got a couple new parts for the soop coming hopefully in the next couple of days aswell, cant wait for the postman

oh, sorry, its Chris Alana never comes on here, she reads threads now and again but its always me that post's. Thanks anyway Charlotte