Kranz

Bestg hangover cure is a 0.5% saline drip and oxygen at 100%.... Doctors at A&E swear by it before starting a shift

On a non synthetic oil above 125 degrees the oil will start to burn/degrade and you'll be able to smell it. I take it you're measuring sump oil temperature? Temps higher than this will lead to siezure of turbo or engine.

Now don't go injuring yourself now just to get off import duty Mig, that's a bizzare rule... any more perks you know of? Does it apply to import parts for the car too?

On for CJ: Checking the details of a second-hand Supra is very much like making love to a beautiful woman. First of all, verify her year of origin. She may look like she rolled off the production line in 1995 but who's to say the fellow before you didn't give her a good spraying?

The post is now restricted to 2000 characters, so had to post this pic here. It can be painted, of course.

So am I. Trying very hard... very hard indeed

:rlol: And for your next trick you'll be peeing on an electric fence?

Translation by Babelfish from Drunken Gibberish to English(UK): They are used plugs out of someone else's car that were okay when they were taken out of that car.

WRVS - They're well hard nuts... & their combat baking is top notch too

Buy a TT. Plenty quick enough.

Would be worthwhile if it pumped more volume and had the relief valve adjustable to set the oil pressure.

Won't it damage the auto box?? My auto Shaguar would kill the box (pop seals?) if revved beyond 2000 rpm in P or N

Thanks for sharing

A double ended dil*o?? For... erm....errr... using in self defence during a road rage attack??

Saddo

We don't want to see your crack mate :rlol:

As Thorin has posted an excellent radiator replacement thread, which I'll be following in a couple of days, I thought I'd post up my temporary fix for the cracked radiator upper tank problem that seems to affect all stock Toyota rads at some point. Tools you'll need: 2mm Drill bit & drill Stanley knife Screwdriver (small thin flat bladed) Bucket or syringe Solvent and a clean rag 180 Grit sandpaper A pack of JB weld This is the crack that you normally see weeping coolant & bubbles out of: Copyright Thorin and blatently stolen without his permission Step 1: Let the engine cool down until its safe to remove the rad cap. Even though there's a hole in the rad it may still have pressure in it. Wait until the bubbles and hissing stop at the very least and USE A CLOTH OVER THE RAD CAP. Step 2: Check the coolant level. If its bone dry in the rad then you may have also overheated it. Can you remember what the temperature guage was at when you stopped the engine? If its still running ok and there's no mayonaise on the underside of the rad cap and in the radiator then you're probably ok. Step 3: Drain the coolant down to below the level of the crack. This is to stop the coolant getting into the glue. If the rad is bone dry move to Step 4. Either drain some coolant from the bottom of the rad drain cock (into a bucket), or use a syringe to suck it out of the top. The syringe is best as there's a bit of dead volume around the top of the tubes and the syringe can suck all of this out. If you're feeling particularly clinical about it, stuff some rag down the cap hole with the screwdriver (keeping one end of it out to pull it back out again) and dry the inside of the top tank around the area of the crack. Step 4: Take the drill with the 2mm drill bit and locate the very ends of the crack. Drill into the top tank so the cracks are on the inside of the holes (i.e. just overlap the end of the crack with the hole so that the hole is slightly further out than the crack). This stops the crack going any further across the rad. Step 5: Take the stanley knife and use the point to cut into the crack to make it deeper. Then use the blade on its side to scratch a V groove into the crack. Make it just deep enough so that the tip of the blade just starts to break through into the inside of the tank. Step 6: Use the sandpaper to sand about 1/2 an inch around each side of the crack and 1/2 an inch beyond the drilled holes. Make it as rough as you can. Then take the stanley knife and scratch it up some more. The rougher the better as this is the keyed surface for the glue to hold on to. Step 7: Clean the area with the solvent and the rag to remove all traces of antifreeze. Step 8: Mix up equal amounts of the JB Weld on a piece of cardboard with the screwdriver. About 1/2 an inch from each tube is sufficient. Use the screwdriver and dollop this into the crack. Work it in well so some goes through to the inside. Use the rest to build up the area around the crack to about 4mm proud of the surface, tapering off towards the edges. Stick what you can (little fingers if you have long small ones) in through the cap neck and smooth the glue around on the inside), then smooth the outside off with a wet finger. Stick some selotape over it to make it smooth if you like. Step 9: Wait 24 hours before filling with coolant and testing. I've done this a couple of days ago and its holding out perfectly. I even gave it full beans to get it hot & pressurised & still no leaks. Should work as a temporary fix while you wait for a new rad if the Supe is your daily transport. I'll post a pic of the finished article when I can get the camera to work

Is it long enough to fit all the way along the radiator???? Blimey

For the fan shroud draught excluder is good! What's the snake ian?? The thing that sits at the bottom of the door in the lounge??

Use Polycarbonate that's UV resistant. Its virtually unbreakable and won't go opaque with age. Prices used to be £45 for a big sheet of 6mm, can't remember where though. Be careful if its going to be used on a wind up window as it scratches easily. Clean the seals that it passes through at the top of the door skin and keep them clean otherwise you'll have a shed load of scratches on the first wind!

Your ECU will need to be powered down (disconnect battery for 10 mins) while you change it. The ECU will then learn the new MAF output values to make up new correction tables. Simple & cheap. No reason why a second hand one can't be used as long as its within spec.

Cos when you have the air con switched on & its working it collects moisture on the evaporator, which cools the air that's going past it into the cabin. At full throttle it will switch off to allow more power (like we haven't got enough) to go to the wheels. When it switches off, the evaporator warms up & all that lovely moisture gets picked up and blown out of the vents onto the windscreen. That's why when you turn the air con off the air out of the vents gets smelly and damp.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Supra-2jz-twin-turbo-sierra-Project-7m_W0QQitemZ290033567464QQihZ019QQcategoryZ10428QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Looks like some good parts, not sure about the car though

No problems.... Everyone in my group buy for Denso IK plugs was great, paid up mostly on time & were ok with the short wait while the plugs came from the USA.

Cos its better than your feet getting wet (which is what would happen if the evaporator drain got blocked)