Kranz

Its a possibility Chris, but then the compressor wheel(s) should be showing damage from impacting the same object... unless its a spark plug tip or similar? Another possibility is overspeed due to high boost peaks? Excessive overspeed (and probably over temp pre-turbine due to the high boost pressures) could cause vibration/harmonics/shaft resonance/bearing flutter (and associated loss of oil film)/turbine blade stresses; any one of which could causeone blade to brake off or chip, further imbalancing the turbo and leading to a chain reaction of total destruction?

You could always stick a "Twin Turbo" badge on your single turbo car Probably cheaper than en extra turbo

Super glue with a spray can of activator. Clean it with solvent & just dollop loads of super glue on the parts, stick them together and then dollop loads more supreglue around it to fill in any holes etc. Then spray on the activator. Like magic it sets rock hard instantly and is a tough as steel. Mine had cracked 2 of the mounts off and split in half, but doing this has it as good as new again. No adhesion problems that other glues can get.

The J spec std turbo has an O ring because it doesn't have a mating flange like all the others and this one. Your turbo looks fine mate! If you don't like it I'll have it

Or instead of Nylocs get some K nuts. They're same as nylocs but with a metal locking part so aren't affected by temperature.

Where steel turbine blades would take some abuse and just have a small chip or ding out of them it looks like ceramics just explode! Its shocking to see the #2 turbine completely gone. The forces on the turbine must have been instantaneously massive. Number 1 turbine has obviously seen lower impact forces, possibly due to a small imbalance at speeds beyond the design speed, causing the blade to vibrate excesively and fracture or chip against the housing. The greater damage to #2 its possibly to do with the spooling of #2 while on high boost to even higher boost. The acceleration forces on the turbine blades may have caused one to fail, putting the whole wheel out of balance at RPM beyond the design speed, causing the wheel to self destruct against the housing with the intense vibration. Quite a messy outcome!

How did you break the windscreen with your hand???

Try here Greg. http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/april06/nerds/ http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/march02/projectser.shtml It looks like its something worth looking into, and if it proves to be not a cost effective benefit then at least its been considered! I'll be doing this at some point on a pair of rebuilt hybrids, and also back to back tests to verify if it has made a difference. I'll let you know how it goes.

Greg, your hybrids should take more than 1.2 bar, so will be fine at that setting. J spec hybrids (stage 3's) have all the advantages of the UK spec & the J spec turbos, plus bigger compressor wheels! They have the steel turbines in common with UK spec & the bigger diameter shafts from the J Spec (bigger bearings so can take more load & are less likely to snap!). They will take a lot more boost than a J spec, and should deliver it more efficiently than a UK spec, although they will be more laggy than both. An option to improve hybrids that I'm looking at is to have both the turbine & compressor extrude honed to improve gas flow & therefore spool up time and efficiency.

LPG is a cleaner burning fuel, that's why the Goverment don't tax it highly. Problem is by the time it catches on and lots of people have switched to using it, what's to stop them taxing it the same as petrol?? It burns a lot cleaner and as such reduces engine wear (no bore washing caused by neat fuel hitting the cylinder walls and washing the oil off during cold start). It completely burns so there is very little carbon buildup in the engine. As it burns so completely the engine oil stays clean for a lot longer, so oil doesn't need changing as often. My Jag would go for 30 to 40K miles and the oil would still be cleaner than running on petrol for a couple of thousand miles. LPG is around 105 to 110 octane!! Performance does not need to be lower than on petrol. Self adapting knock control should compensate for any potential for lower perfomance when running on gas. A port injection system with low pressure gas injectors will give the same performance and MPG as a petrol system and will not be a problem with turbos as long as the boost pressure isn't too high. This is because the injection of the gas relies on the pressure of the liquified gas in the tank. The pressure difference between the tank and the inlet manifold must be positive. Space need not be a problem if a toroidal tank is used in the spare wheel well. This would hold about 80 litres. Also installation isn't difficult, but the system will need to be checked and certified by an approved installer then commisioned & tuned by them. The control systems usually use adaptive learning, so tuning is only basic during comissioning. And the best thing..... you can buy a small pump and buy propane in 90Kg cylinders to fill your car from home, so no more trips to petrol stations are needed. Its also 35p a litre !!

Been banned more than once eh? Back on topic, is there a replacement for the manual box that is easier to source and doesn't demand such a high premium?? i.e. the same type of box fitted to a different make/model??

Has it got a kevlar engine shield fitted.... to catch the flying bits before they go supersonic ??

OMFG is it running stock bottom end?? It'll either pop or fly!! Wish I could see it run.

:rlol:

S*****?????? Innit? Sounds like a West Country colloquialism for Cider? :nana:

How far is it to drive???? Road trip?

Yep, a long rope

Construction and use regs state something about the height above the road it has to be at, and vertical to?? Can't find it on the website tho....

Fish Man???? Gone all surreal have we??

Before pulleys fail they tend to start to move or fret. An idea to check if the pulley is moving is to paint a white line on the two halves across the rubber section. Any movement will show up as the lines not being inline. A quick check each service or even on the weekly fluid checks will confirm everything is in order (or not).

Depends on the engine rpm. At 4000 to 5000 I'd expect to be seeing 150 litres/min. The Mondeo diesel is 120 Lirtes/min at those speeds. The only way to determine what the flow is would be to fit a flowmeter.

Someone must have one??? Its for a pair of hybrids I'm rebuilding/experimenting with.

321 miles.... About 24 MPG. Mostly around town.

Will it not undo at all? Get a breaker bar on it after giving it a load of plus gas or WD40. Take the offending pin out (in fact do both) and stick it in a drill and clean it with some 800 Wet & Dry paper. Then grease it with silicone grease & stick it back in. Will work a treat. If it won't come out, take the rest of the caliper apart and heat up the torque plate where it screws in, then spray it with WD40 while still very hot & get the breaker bar on it. Then clean it up as above. Good luck!

Its been raining a lot lately. My bet is the underground tank in the petrol station has probably got water in it, so you've bought petrol & water mix. I once had this in a Mini. Pulled the choke out to richen the mixture and it went away. More fuel = problem solved. Probably doesn't do it at low throttle as the ECU is running off the lambda sensor so corrects the mixture to run richer and gets more fuel in to compensate for the water content. At full throttle you're probably way rich on the fuelling anyway, and the water content will supress any bad effect such as detonation due to going lean (if it does go anywhere near lean, full throttle is very rich on Supes). That leaves part throttle where the lambda sensor isn't being used to adjust the fuelling quantity, but the mixture is running mid way between stoich and full power rich. The water content is leaning out the mixture too much & quenching the flame (if it fires at all) causing misfire. Fill up with petrol from another station ASAP & use it up. If it doesn't do it after the next tankfull then it's probably this water problem If you're worried there may be engine damage take a sample of the fuel as it is now to prove your case against the garage that sold you the fuel. I can have it analysed.