Shane

Not really a "Was it you" as we stopped and chatted briefly. Lovely looking car you have there Lyndon and welcome to the club. Hope to see you at Pod.

Hey JB, we will probably be there and I will most likely pay to use the strip, but I dont really want to this far in advance as I may be working away in Deauville that weekend and dont want to pay for the strip if I can't make it due to work. As soon as I know I will make payment assuming there are spaces left. Although there is important racing in Deauville that weekend and the boss normally goes, it also Ramadam and we are hoping he wil clear off home for that instead this year, in which case we will be there.

For a while I had really rubbish idle on my NA and couldnt get to the bottom of it with no fault codes being stored either to give me a clue. Then one day it got really bad on me and cut out at some lights, but this time it did store a code, cant remember which one though...maybe 43...but when I looked it up it was something like "TPS signal lost for more than 1 second", dont quote me on the exact wording or time but it was along those lines. Anyhow, cleaned and re-tensioned the connections to the TPS and it not only cured the fault code but also the idle issue. In your case if the intermittant signal from the TPS is below whatever the preset time is required to store a code, this could explain things. Have a good look around that area.

Loving this thread! Must parking sensors are ultrasonic BTW, so think you can take them out of the equation! But the other kits mentioned here are reckoned to work. Hey Dude, I read about another bloke who shared your views the other day.....think his name was Raoul or something:d About a year ago I got given a section 59 driving asbo for using kickdown in a built up area! We reckoned I am probably the oldest person to be given one:)

Glad you got it sorted David. You have to ask what testing they do though.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q220/shaneg7ewl/Broken%20it/IMG00254-20100530-0909.jpg OK here is the one I made, it's rough and basic and took less than half hour to make. But it works!

As annoying and frustrating that must be, you had a lucky escape David. Hope they cough up.

Don't think there is a cheap one available off the shelf. Will post a picture of the rough one I made when get a mo In a Parisian bar just now. It's Bastile day!

Mate you need to make a tool. Once you have you will wish you did it from the begining. I used 2 peices of angle iron (from an old bed frame) in a Y form simply bolted at the join, though welded would be best. The longer part of the Y rests against the driver side chassis section in the engine bay. The V part of the Y sits across the pulley and requires two holes drilling for the M8 bolts to pass through into the threaded holes of the pulley which are either side of your favourite bolt. Big breaker and probably a pole to get the leverage and it will come out without the need of power tools, heat etc. I foolishly battled for a couple of days with mine until I spent half hour making a tool and then 5 minutes cracking the bolt. Honest, when they are as tight as that, IMO you need a tool, especially if it's an auto.

Quite likely to have dry joints on the small PCB that the bulbs are soldered too. Try giving it a good tap on top of the light cluster and see if that one comes on or flickers as that may give you a clue. If it is that then its and easy soldering fix.

I have one, OEM untested £20 + p&p

OK ta, the member I got them from said they were facelift ones and the lenses do look oem but the LEDs certainly are not and have been hot melt glued in place and pretty badly soldered. Thats why he sold them as half of one ring was not working. When I stripped it down this was because the soldering was so bad, so not a problem. So maybe I should wire them as rear lights and retain the original brake lights. Thanks again.

I have just made a good set of rear lights up for my car using my old ones and a set I bought from another member. Both red lights each have a set of 12 LEDs around the outer edge. Looks nice but wonder if the LEDs (bear in mind thats 24 each side) are bright enough for daytime use as brake lights? At the moment because I am unsure, I have left one normal brake light on each side connected but that ruins the effect of the leds imo. Toying with the idea of fitting a small relay and switch so I can have the normal bulbs connected as well during daylight. What do others with a ring of LEDS do?

I agree. What I can tell you Phil, is that I have only just BPUed mine and so far from the "pop and bang" point of view it doesnt. Mines an auto too. I would have thought most cars with electronically controlled fuelling cut fuel on the overun so this is something you wouldnt get.

Sorry Craig mate but that doesn't sound right at all. Obviously it will all depend on the engine loading anyhow. However in my case, I have been up for hours and got it all sussed I think. Firstly, my mannual boost controller adjustment is horrible and very very course/critical. I guess not all are the same but the thread on the adjusting bolt on the one I have is course anyhow so that cant help. But, I have now found a point where in this morning's temperatures I have it sitting just below 1 bar. What I should have done is mount it a bit further away from the engine to make adjustment that bit easier. Ouch! Swampy, yes mate I will be getting a EBC asap now I have played with this one as I can see this one will be a real PITA requiring constant adjustment to allow for ambient temperature change. Regarding my holding back/missfire, it was down to the plugs. There was a set of PK20Rs in there and comparing the gap with the new Densos was like comparing Jordan's love tunnel with Mother Theresa's, although I imagine hers is looking a bit worse for wear now as she has been dead for years:d But sure you get what I mean. The plugs had not been changed for years going by how the grey clips that secure the harness inside the plug cover just fell apart when I touched them. Anyhow, the IK22s cured the holding back at higher boost levels and also now fuel cut comes in bang on 1 bar. Maybe the ECU gets tied up with other stuff trying to work out what's going on when it's missfiring and thats why it was getting over 1 bar before cut came in. Just a guess though. So, all in all it was a good few hours work and pleased with the results. Car feels good and strong and everything seems to be ok. Just had a call from work and looks like I may have to go in so will have a nice 90 odd mile drive each way to really try it if so. Just need to buy a EBC and FCD now. Sorry for the long post.

Hang on guys, I don't think he is saying he wants it to pop and bang, he just wants to know will it. However if he does want it to, then please carry on;)

A TT gets generates much more heat than a NA, something I underestimated until I got a TT, but on my old NA I cooked it at least twice, first when the core plug failed and second when the stat jammed closed. Both times I thought I had probably knackered it but to my amazement and pleasure it doesnt appear to have caused any damage as it goes on and on and never seems to be any different in terms of smoke, power or reliability. Last time I cooked it due to the stat, CW thought that maybe the top end had gone banana shaped, but that was over 18 moons and 20,000 miles ago and no problems at all. Still sounds as sweet as a nut, pulls like a train (ahem NA train) and still as reliable as hell. But, as I said a TT generates much more heat therefore more elikely to do damage. Do a sniff test and if it's ok run it for a while and see how you get on.

Ok look forward to it. Working in France Monday through to Thursday next week and then London as normal on Friday so won't be about. But look forward to a blast when I get back. Will give you a blast in the silver one and I reckon you might want one of them, be warned... Got it almost there now mechanically, couple of little niggles to sort out but am getting there. Speak soon and well done, it's good to be a pioneer eh!

Mods. Would you move this to technical please. Thanks.

Hey David, Glad to see you got it working and well done as I know it wasn'nt easy. . Sounds though you are pleased wwith the results. Look forward to a demo sometime.

Thermostat on mine started to play up a year or so ago, it's not that uncommon. Dont be fooled in thinking that because it opens in a pan of water at the right temperature it's fine either. They behave very differently under pressure. I struggled at first to get the correct one for mine locally and had to go to Mr T. However I also now know that CW keeps them.

I have just got round to fitting a MBC to mine and bit concerned about that I may not have it right. Its a ball and spring type with a small bleed hole in the main body. I have plumbed it in between the compressor housing and the actuator of the front turbo, as I am pretty sure the diagram that gets posted on here regulary shows. I have not capped the VSV to actuator pipe though, as most seem to think with a MBC its best not to. The ball bearing side of the valve is connected to the compressor housing and the other to the actuator. Think that's right? Ok, I set the controller bolt about 3 maybe 4 turns in from the start of its thread so there was very little pressure on the spring. I have only taken it for short drive so far and quickly hit fuel cut, (loss of power for bit and warning triangle) now according to my Blitz boost gauge this happened just over 1.1bar. So, I stopped and wound the bolt out about 1 turn and stil the same. It's simply too hot in there to adjust it again at the moment but will try once it cools down, I already have 3rd degree burns to my hands from the first attempt! My concern/question is, how course is this adjustment, I mean does it go from say 1.2 to 1.0 bar in say quarter of a turn? or is it as I imagined it would be, a very fine adjustment? Also noticed that I now seem to get what I can only describe as holding back when I go over about 0.8 or 0.9 on the gauge. I guess this could be the plugs or coilpack connectors and I have a set of IK22's to go in but want to get the boost somewhere near under control first. My plan was to run at around 1 bar for a while and then later fit a FCD. Also how come it lets me boost to over 1.1 before I hit fuel cut? Is the 1bar figure an approx. figure that varies between cars? Spec is: Jap spec TT 95 Double decat 3" Japspeed Restrictor ring 1bar Upgraded fuel pump Blitz boost gauge MBC http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MECHANICAL-BOOST-CONTROLLER-TOYOTA-MR2-SUPRA-TWIN-TURBO-/290452165243?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a04c527b 3" stainless exhaust, single box Any suggestions gratefully received, thanks.

There was a guy on here the other day saying that NAs will pass without cats anyhow as they are not listed on the MOT database. This was news to me but he quoted a bit of the MOT bible and it sounded what he was saying was right. I will try and find the thread. EDIT: Here you are http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=221716

Nice work, well done. Are you running a piggy back with the stock ecu? Thought it was one of the better Japshows compared to the others over the past couple of years, really enjoyed it this time and came away thinking it was worth the money this time.

Craig, just knock one up, if you want I will take a photo of mine and send it to you. Its so easy to make a basic tool and I have used mine several times on 3 supras now. It's made from two peices of angle iron cut from an old bedframe believe it or not. One piece is about 50cm or so long and the other I guess 30cms. Bolted together to make a Y form (bolted at the join not even welded) that sits flush to the pulley. A hole drilled in each part that allows you to bolt it to the threaded holes either side of the bolt. Your socket then just fits inside the V. Then in use the long part of the tool rests against the chassis on the driver side. Honest mate, once you do it you will wonder what the fuss was all about.