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I run the same as above (Motul RBF instead of Castrol). Very effective but high temperature is harsh on the exposed components (see below). http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=196463 The CW fast road pads I use for normal road use will let you down if you push them.

Hi, I'll take this please. Let me know how you would like payment? Thanks Martin

I can't make this weekend, but I'll be at the Ring from 21st to the 23rd of August if anyone else is heading down.

Probably related to the t1t that drives the red F430 in the same fashion then......

I work in Peterborough and overheard the guys talking about seeing this on their night out.

Agreed, if you swap disc or pad individually you will have a mismatch until you wear them in which can take a very long time. If you're worried about it just rub your old pads flat with emery cloth on a flat surface. Doesn't take much and will also remove any glazing that may have occured.

Fairly common problem. Providing you are not getting any steering wheel vibration and its just the pedal that is jumping up and down then they have overheated. Where the internal vanes are attached to the rotor, conduction is very good, but where there is only air behind the rotor the conduction is very poor. This uneven heating causes the disc to distort and go thick-thin. You may be able to see blue heat areas radiating from the centre of the disc inline with the vanes. Did you bed them in? You can get the discs machined true again. I've used pro-cut equipment in the past and been charged 20 quid per disc. They machine the disc to your hub whilst on the car.

I've not experimented with a stock (cat back) exhaust system, but I fail to see how it can be worse than a nasty 2" restrictor ring which must have horrific flow characteristics. A restrictor ring is far more restrictive then most exhaust components that people accuse of raising EGT's IMO.

Why? That logic suggests that the car had stinking hot EGT's with the Cat's in.

I may well come along on Sunday. I would prob meet up with your convoy from somewhere just after junc 14 though. Does that make it easy enough to get on the club stand if I follow you in? If not I'll just park with the rest of the Joe's.

My first towbar on a Supra sighting.....

Did you manage to find one of these in the end for a sensible amount? I think mine is leaking at the metal to rubber joint and Toyota have just informed me it will set me back £376!!! May see if a hydraulic hose specialist can replace the troubled section......

I can confirm this also.

I made a mount located to the back site or the rear seat. It means it can be folded up or down when required. I made it by unscrewing the 'wooden' backing and reinforcing it with another piece of timber. I then screwed a bit of 2"x2" into it with a screw in camera mount on the top. I have also screwed in a separate mic to the side of it.

Agreed. I have been taught the same. The force only acts a perpendicular plane to the instantaneous direction of motion. To put another way it acts along the tangent of the circle. The only 'real' force is called the centripetal. This essentially acts in the oppposite direction to what we think of the centrifugal force. This force is essentailly your arm holding onto the bucket.

Consult, that brings back memories from when I used to work at NTCE. My car (and half the time me) is based pretty close to Cranfield.

No, because the throttle is wide open so there is very little resistance against the flow of air and hence very little vacuum.

How did the Scammell Explorer get on(6x6 truck)? My ol' man used to have one of those in original recovery form. Had a look at your Ultima pics. Your head does a good job of making sure that roll over hoop never gets damaged...

I have not measured my exhaust gas temperatures, but I struggle to fully follow the logic of this. I can understand how an increase in boost will raise temps and also for a given gas flow (same boost) a rise in back pressure will also raise exhaust temps due to the extra work on the gas. I can also comprehend how leaving a restriction in the exhaust and raising boost with an EBC will compound matters. What I cannot follow the logic of is how placing the restriction further down the gas stream will make a difference to engine out exhust temps. To reduce the boost you are altering the pressure differentional across the turbine so no matter where you place the restriction, the pressure backs up to the engine out exhaust gas. I do agree the spool will increase, because it will take longer to pressurise the larger volume in the exhaust pipe. My other confusion is why the 1st Cat should be any worse of a restriction for heat than a Restrictor Ring. A lot of people use the RR to hold boost down to 1bar, then raise with an EBC. With the 1st Cat left in and a straight through system you can also see 1bar. So what is the difference? If you were to measure the temps post Cat you may see a rise due to the exothermic reaction in the Cat, but this would not affect gas temps upstream and hence affect the engine. This is my understanding of the system, but am happy to accept a logical explanation to the contrary.

As a young test Engineer I was conducting an oil consumption survey at an OEM on new campany cars. I had to ensure they were all bang on the dipstick line so the consumption could be measured. A couple of weeks later I spotted a manger asking a colleague for some engine degreaser to fix the mess on his drive. Turned out 'some (very embarrassed) idiot' had left his oil filler cap resting on the inlet manifold of his new 4x4.......

Not hugely descriptive with your problem there are you..... Iridium plugs will last longer providing you select the correct heat range. If you drive hard then go with IK24's. Being BPU makes no difference to the plugs unless you use the extra boost. Harder you drive the more heat you have to shift through the plug. If you stay below 4k then you risk fouling them up.

What job are they not doing? 22's lasted very little time in my BPU. 24's have held up much better.

Definitely the exception and not a car I would be inclined to keep too long to be safe..... Dealt with too many failed pumps which on strip down had petrol in them to think any different. Admitedly it depends on how persistent the user is to keep the car running and how well the petrol mixes with the diesel.

Cooking oil and petrol are two very different liquids! Modern diesel (common rail and EUI etc) fuel injection equipment will not withstand large volumes of petrol due to the lack of lubricity. In this instance the ratio is very low so should be OK.

When you say logos, do you mean on the centre caps? They could not do the centre caps for me so I landed up buying the TTE ones.