4packet

'Mytyres' have always been the best for me or if you are VAT registered use Yourtyres.

Are you sure? I thought I saw it on a BMW Z4 last week, but it may have used some artistic license with the font.

I was forced to try it when I was struggling to diagnose an intermittent IACV VSV and needed the car to perform. No other mods to support it mind. I found it disturbingly noisey at certain revs and couldn't understand why the car had so much lag for such small turbos. I also remember being paranoid about the rattle. I soon switched back to sequential.

Jeez and you drive it! Maybe I should thumb a lift from MK instead of commuting weekly..... How do you cope with the M1 roadworks?? Its bad enough for me and I can use the white line.

Especially when you consider cost/time of commuting to London from Leicester!! Thats commitment mate. It's true the point you made of London. You can feel pretty poor when you look around despite being on a seemingly good sum of money. It's all relative though....

Your turbo is fine - the rattle is from the valve. Stick it back to sequential and forget you ever tried the mod. IMO it's a bad mod for many reasons. Most have been documented fully on here.

I think the main issue is that all cars boost differently once modified, so you need a means of trimming the boost (hence the RR). It also seems necessary to adjust the exhaust restriction between Winter and Summer conditions as the boost differential is quite large. If only the wastegate was bigger on the J-specs....

Wasn't convinced I had a question?? The 2nd cat does not appear to be much of a restriction, hence on a J-spec TT car where you need to run with a restriction in the exhaust, why would you bother with a free flowing cat and then stick a dirty plate infront of it to hold back boost? The only reason I can see to remove the 2nd cat is if the cat will overheat and the ceramic begins to break up at BPU power.

I'm confused regarding the need for a sports cat. The OEM 2nd cat running with a 1st decat doesn't provide enough restriction to hold safe boost on a J-spec TT, therefore what is the requirement for a free flowing (sports) cat? I've had to fit my 2nd cat back in over the winter (and imminent MOT) to compensate for the colder climate as it was overboosting with a 1bar(?) restrictor ring. It still makes around 1bar boost atm. If come Summer time and I need to up the boost I would just file the RR out/remove to compensate (should I wish to keep the Cat in place for the Ring).

That's what kept me in the sport for so long. I liked to jump....

I tried to contact you by PM/mail about it recently, but assumed by your lack of response you were not selling......

Depends what age the Passat is. Most modern turbo's are VGT and use this to control their boost. It isn't unheard of for the vains to fail and seize like you describe. Should flag a DTC which the dealer can diagnose. Martin

Cash, but nearly got mugged leaving the bank! Nipped out at lunch on the push bike to Ealing and found a pair of unsavoury looking gents hiding round the corner and my tyre slashed! Had to dump my bag back into their safe and walk home to get the car back into work the little b'ggers!

Sean, if you don't mind me asking what caliper/disc combination are you going for? I'm looking to do a similar thing shortly with some Brembo calipers. Martin

Edit - Ignore me, I have a spare rack not a reservoir

Yep been using the FMS and have a vague idea. Had the ol Lama buzzing away for quite a while, but twice it just rotated round and headed for the ground rotor first without any additionaly inputs. Seemed to make a noise as if blades were meeting blades as it plummeted. The final crash may have been battery related as I think it slid out of position (no doubt due to the previous 2 crashes) and pulled the heli over backwards! Just built up the Cessna EP400 plane today as the heli is grounded.... just not built up the courage to fly it!

We're in the process of mastering a Lama v4 (outside). Yesterday took 6 blades out of the inventory! Just put in an order for 40 from HK, hopefully that should last another week or so...... I'm convinced the stabilizer is coming adrift though as all the crashes seemed very sudden and random. Metal upgrade parts have been ordered so hopefully less crashes or at least less excuses!

Modern diagnostics def keep things interesting! Don't discount the option of steam cleaning (remove parts first obviously!) the EGR/inlet tracks. Hesitation and other related running concerns being the prompt. I hope your TDCI engine is otherwise serving you well Kranz?

I think alot of people will suffer issues with modern EGR equipped engines. There is no thermostat on the cooling system for the recirculated exhaust gas. If it over cools the gas, deposits (like a gum) form on the valve mechanism and seat. In extreme cases this can even begin to affect the airflow through the inlet manifold. Modern engines rely on much heavier quantities of EGR to pass emissions legislation and surpress noise in the case of diesels. EGR serves to reduce NOX by reducing in cylinder combustion temeratures. Thats why the cooling is necessary. Drive cycles play an important part to how quickly these deposits form because the EGR is only used during certain operating conditions. Having seen the effects of EGR I would be very tempted (should I ever own an EGR equipped vehicle) to limit or stop completely any EGR entering my engine. Blocking the vac pipe will work if the valve is seating OK, but some are operated by a motor. An industry test for diagnosing EGR concerns is to slide a blanking plate between the EGR valve outlet and inlet manifold (only sure way of stopping the flow of gases). Martin

If it's the international circuit you'll struggle to haul the thing up on std brakes and get the power down on the way out (see below). The extra loop is very tight, whereas the rest of circuit is brilliantly flowing for cars like the Supra. There are also rumours about the offline grip being inferior due to aviation fuel deposited by the local aircraft. Not entirely sure on this, but it’s the excuse I use as to why I somersaulted my CBR into the gravel trap at Coppice in 2006.

Thanks for the response Chris. I consided this, but assumed that if the outer CV joint moved with the hub (even with the hub nut off) then it must be tight and the play was coming from somewhere else? The CV joint moves a huge amount! Not so much doubting your diagnosis, just struggling to understand the mechanism of the symptoms as the diagrams in the workshop manual are a little difficult to relate to. Will be in touch with you regarding those bespoke bells once I have resolved this issue!

Any suggestions greatly received guys..... When I bought the car I noticed the passenger side rear hub had some play in it. Didn't notice any of the usual bearing noise signs, but there was always a slight metallic knocking noise (when the wheel hits a bump etc) which I have been trying to diagnose also. I changed the bearing (Genuine Toyota) with the help of a local garage to press the new one in place. I was surprised that the old bearing appeared in good shape, but did not notice any unusual wear anywhere else. Everything was tight to remove and the shop made no comments regarding the push on force for the bearing or hub (I observed the whole operation). After fitting the bearing I appear to have made no improvement. I still have the same play and metallic knock. I have checked that the hub nut is tight recently too. The play can be seen on the driveshaft so it seems the wheel/hub/shaft all move together relative to the carrier. I cannot see any other play in the suspension and with the handbrake on the play is not there. I appear to be getting pad push back (discs recently skimmed) also. Any ideas or experiece of this issue? Cheers Martin

I used to keep mine in the area (between north acton stn and Ealing Common) during the week, but have switched to the motorbike as a commuter now. More luggage capacity!

Hi, I have a question regarding the effect of running with an EBC on the 1st turbo boost level. My observations show that running with the EBC off with a 1bar restrictor ring I will see roughly 0.55bar boost from the 1st turbo. With EBC on I will see roughly 0.8bar from the 1st turbo and the car is noticeably quicker. I understand that in the single turbo phase the boost level is controlled by the exhaust bypass valve, so is the EBC inhibiting its function and hence pre spool is non existent? Thanks Martin

Just to let you know I have sent you a pm. I would be interested in having this. Martin