Rob

Yes, top tip if you're donutting, DON'T continuously yank the wheel over at full lock.

I wasn't taking the p155 out of you, I was playing up to the image of the N/A supra being so slow, as an N/A driver myself. I wasn't actually aware that the N/A came with cruise, so you've taught me something there. I don't know the answer, you need Pete Betts along here. Welcome anyway.

No, the N/A wheel can't handle the power output of the TT, plus it has a smaller diameter thickness "around the rim" as the N/A is more suited to woman, gays and mentals.

Same here, a Haicom GPS that plugs into the CF clot on my 2210. Only problem is the constant removal in/out of the car that sometimes dislodges the GPS from the CF slot and then requires a soft reset. Difficult whilst driving. So if its in-car use only, then a separate bluetooth GPS would be a better bet. Tom Tom make a bluetooth GPS receiver and a proper plug in cradle for most of the HP Ipaqs, so give their website a look

Well, I always go for SO3's and got just 6-7 months out of the last rear pair, so I suppose it's academic really as we're only talking about normal road use. Once again, Netto car park has been tainted with black rubber prior to the new tyres being fitted, but I managed to avoid breaking my PS pump this time:D :D

Don't ab flug do spoilers?

Oh Cobblers. I've just had some 225s put on the back today.

3-2-1 you're back in the room!

Have you, that must be quite a difficult thing to do, especially when you think of those first few puffs from lighting up a big cigar, that luscious, almost velvety clouds, that heady aroma. It's a most decadent luxury I'm sure you can do it though.

Spanner, socket, whatever, just lean on it and it moves down enough to remove the belt. You are only moving it, not undoing it, it's just a stiff spring.

Lets hope he doesn't like asparagus.

I don't think the Supra has an electronic brake pad wear indicator, it relies on the aural indicator.

Without me referring to the handbook, if the handbrake and triangle light come on it means low brake fluid. If at full boost I presume you mean under full acceleration, then the fluid would be moving about in the reservoir. Try some heavy braking to see if the lights come on then as well. Don't know about the groaning though.

In my experience, burning clutches smell like really heavily boiled sprouts.

Isn't the whole of F1 about reducing piston mass to facilitate an increase in RPM?

Not a 5-Zigen is it? Looks like my old exhaust, which is now used as a plant pot

Reckon they can be polished in-situ?

I recall laying under my Landy cutting the axle U-bolts off with a grinder, watching a shower of sparks bang off the fuel tank, which I already knew had a leak in it somewhere. It was a challenging and thought provoking situation.

Crikey, there's a question. Completely off the top of my head and awaiting to be shot down... if you are increasing the power output of the engine, then more force is exerted onto the piston with each explosion pushing it down the cylinder. Therefore, the con rod acts like a column transfering the vertical load from the piston head to the crankshaft. Therefore if you increase the load there must come a point where the "column" can no longer transmit the force and it buckles under compression. Would this be "throwing a rod"? I presume that forged con rods by way of their superior construction, molecular alignment etc etc are able to take a higher load than a bog standard piston. A lighter rod will also acc/decelerate more easily. Unless you are talking about gaining more power by increasing the rpm, rather than increasing the force released by exploding the fuel. At this point we can safely say we have reached the boundary fence of my knowledge.

I think that would C4's "Driven" then.

Repost I know but worth it....

Well, mine's the S6 Neo, but principles are the same. Hard wiring was just a case of running the power from near the radio, up behind the speedo area and out by the A-pillar, which is where the screen is mounted. You can then run the cable to the radar detector up around the windscreen, tucking it in the lining, and mount the detector behind the rear view mirror. Very tidy and easy. Hopefully, the B2 is the same. I put my S6 at the junction of RH dash and A-pillar, as it is in line of sight, doesn't obscure any instruments, is slightly hidden from external view by parking permit pouch etc, AND, I believe there has to be some distance betwixt detector and screen.

I know, had me in kinks last night. I hadn't read Sniff Petrol in over three months.

Cool. I think most of us, that live with a lady, understand what you're saying. It's always difficult trying to justify your latest Supra expense, especially if the wifes just blown £200 on a s@dding handbag.

As ever, I am dead keen to hear your results, as I see this as the next step for my car. Was the throttle sensor just knackered or was it an issue with the new camshaft? I know I was hassling you for costs so I apologise if that offended you