Rob
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Everything posted by Rob
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S'easy. You'll have to strip the dash to hardwire your snooper anyway.
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Hmmmm, well just for a moment it seems like it's gonna stall, and I always blip the throttle to catch it. I'll leave it , the next time, and see what happens.
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Chris W gave the definitive answer to no.1, when reversing at full lock, the "geometry" of the tyres turning will eventually force one to "skip"slightly on the ground, causing this knocking noise. Mine always does it in cold weather, maybe because the tyres are cold and slip easier. The judder when turning whilst stationary is also normal, you may notice your revs drop as well as the engine is trying to power the steering. It may even nearly stall. Turning the wheels when stationary puts extra strain on the system and you shouldn't really do it, but thats far easier said then done.
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My subtle hints to the breadknife that I want CW decat pipes for christmas has fallen on deaf ears, unless Chris chips in and tells me hes received an order from the wife.
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As an aside, don't you just love those adverts in Auto Trader, in the crashed section when they say, "perfect condition before accident" like that counts for something now!
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Sorry, back to the axle stands again. I had my car up on four axle stands, (3 tonners) on the jacking points, trying to change the exhaust and I thought "F@*k this, I really don't like being under here" so I took it to a garage instead. Sorry if we were all dissing you, but it's really dangerous. Michael Buerke is officially the most evil man on television, "I counted them all out, then I shot them all down as they came back in" that'll sort out the young and the beautiful.
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and some bloody axle stands. Just think of Michael Buerks voice when you're under the car.
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Basically, you are doing fine, but you will need to use more elbow grease.
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Nobody will put their neck on the line and tell you your tyre is safe to drive on, especially not if their business is selling tyres. Having said that, I once had a 8/10mm bolt go through my tyre, had it repaired and still drove like a maniac. Blew out and rolled the car though! Only joking on the last bit!
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How long till it tarnishs, d'you reckon, and needs re-polishing? Kind of important because i was thinking of taking the paint of my Land Rover and polishing the whole body (aluminium)
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Power is just tailing off at 7500rpm, then it bounces off the limiter, although I am generally not looking at the counter at this point. Very true about the 4000rpm power band, get it wrong though, like leaving a roundabout in third and you'll be looking at the backside of a Vectra 2.5V6. ...and Mr Short Sleeves will be telling his area manager how he "opened a big can of whuppass" on a Supra.
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You will probably have to remove the battery and/or the stock air filter casing. From memory there are three bolts that hold each headlight to the bodywork, two are obvious, the other is tucked down low on the "outer" side of the light. Once all bolts are out, and the plugs are disconnected, some wiggling is required which will free the light, in a sequence that is impossible to describe, yet intuitive to perform. And then...... the reassembly procedure is the reverse of disassembly!!!
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Ooh I dunno, I could never stay with the TT's on our early morning Camber Sands runs, they just used to disappear up the road, and these were country lanes.
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My TRL delimiter did that this summer, just stopped working but re-set after ignition was off for a while. Pete, are you there, put that sprog down and deal with something really important.
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I've got a mystery panel - anyone tell me where it comes from?
Rob replied to IceMan's topic in mkiv Technical
Yeah, mine doesn't go back in properly either. -
£60 sounds like a decent price to pay for a Panda.
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Put your ear to the screen, and you can hear the distant sound of Justin F running towards you
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S'true, Toyota request about £65-70 for a drive belt. When I expressed shock, the parts man said... "It is quite a long belt"
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or mod the odo to read in miles but don't tell anyone, and claim its still Km. Did I say that, surely not?
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Ahh, somebody said the NOS word. I was going to put NOS on mine, via Torque IC, to achieve 300HP, but then thought thats a £1000 for little bursts of 300HP, when for a bit extra I could buy a TT and get a constant 326.
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No that won't work, Rob's sounds like mine, the speedo face has been changed to read in MPH, max 120. He needs a new (original) speedo face plus the Betts de-limiter. I got mine from Supraman at Meopham, but it took a while. Combine it with a switch to indiglo dials:)
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First thing is, all they have done is change the speedo face, give them a ring and see if they still have the original. You will need a de-limiter from Pete Betts, as your car will be limited to 112mph(180kph). The speedo is driven electronically, the Betts de-limiter divides the signal by 5/8ths.
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This looks like what has been done, but I have no record of my car being with JIC at all.
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Yes thats it, you'll notice the main pipe has a two piece metal cover over its full length.
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Hang on, what I'm talking about is a metal shroud for the pipe, two pieces that bolt around the pipe
