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Booked in on Friday at EVO tune Durham, looking forward to see what I’m making. They do a 3 power run or a tune up option. I’ve got a greddy oled BC don’t think I have it tweaked correctly so I’m probably gonna do the “tune” option. I’ve used them years ago with a few lads off here but was just stock and did the power runs. Hopefully they can set it up and check to see if it’s running lean as I’ve got a aem air/fuel wideband. Will upload the results.

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What else have you done to car, intercooler upgrade ? Cats removed?

 

Hi John I’ve got a double decat s/s and toyo sports cat back exhaust s/s. Changed out my original side mounted Intercooler with a really good shape, low mileage stock IC. New plugs, oils, fluid, filters etc every year.

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I thought 1.3 was the max to go to on stock turbos/manifold

 

You can run what you want, but how long you want them to last is another matter lol Littlenum use to run 1.5 bar :D I run a range from 1.15 to 1.5 bar, depends on the situation, and if Rosie is driving our car like a loon :rlol:

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I was under the impression you got bugger all gain but created lots more heat hence no point in

going over 1.3

 

Exactly what I was taught on here and believed, until I was educated differently by Num ;) The thing flys at 1.5 Dunk, trust me lol

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Be interesting to see what the actual difference was in hp and torque and how much hotter the egt gets

 

Oh I imagine it gets hot! lol But bum on seat feel you can feel a difference, Rosie felt it going from 1.3 bar to 1.4 bar on DB last month. I wouldn't advise it to anyone else, I just enjoy pushing and beating my car. Not bothered if it breaks/blows up, it's just an old girl to me now, and I'll just fix and repeat, whatever goes bang, it's worth it for the smile it puts on my face, and mainly to see Rosie smiling :)

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I was under the impression you got bugger all gain but created lots more heat hence no point in

going over 1.3

 

Yes dunk I’ve got it set to 1.4 bar But usually see 1.35 on full wot. It feels rapid but I still think I’ve not got the BC set up hence why I’m taking it for a hour to tune it. Hopefully they will get the best out of it at safe levels.

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Be interesting to see what the actual difference was in hp and torque and how much hotter the egt gets

 

I’ll see if I can change my settings dunk and will upload results. Maybe try 1.3-1.5 and check results. I’ve got an hour on the roller so will see.

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I’ll see if I can change my settings dunk and will upload results. Maybe try 1.3-1.5 and check results. I’ve got an hour on the roller so will see.

 

That would be good, i'd be very interested to see the results and have a figure before

its corrected at the wheels

 

My UK auto was 347 WHP on a hub dyno at 1.25 bar, with fmic, de cat, bc, fcd

 

Doing some very approx maths if my car made 400 hp at the crank then every

0.1 bar of boost was approx 12 hp, or is that bollocks :rolleyes:

Edited by Dnk (see edit history)
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I read that Uk can handle 1.4 bar efficiently, will see on Friday :)

 

Yes UK turbo s can handle 1.4bar steel blades jap imports are ceramic not recommended to go over 1.2bar, but to get best out the full bpu set up at 1.4bar you need sort fuelling etc.

Best luck with dyno day anything over or close to 400hp/tq really transforms the car over standard stock.

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Only as different as comparing one rolling road to another. I think for the sake of this thread it makes little difference

 

I disagree.

 

Inertia dyno's work on the principle of the acceleration of a known mass over time. Their rollers are the known mass. Weighing in at over 1100 kgs +.

 

The car gets strapped down to the machine and the dyno collects it's data. It is able to calculate horsepower by measuring the acceleration (in RPM) of the rollers. This is why gearing can affect the dyno results which leads to over reading.

 

Now that the dyno has recorded the horsepower curve, it can take the integral of that curve and get the torque curve. Since the dyno’s power calculations are based on the acceleration of mass over time in regards to RPM gearing is very important.

 

A vehicle with a lower gear ratio can accelerate the mass to a higher speed using less engine RPM so it will show a higher horsepower number than a car with a higher gear ratio.

 

If a car is able to accelerate the dyno’s rollers from 200rpm (roller speed) to 300rpm (roller speed) in 1500rpm (engine speed) then the dyno is going to record more power than a car that did that in 2000rpm (engine speed).

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From a fueling perspective alone, the UK's are better equipped for 1.2 Bar +, given they have a highflow fuel pump and 550 injectors.

 

Most Jspecs I've played with using a standalone showing that the 440 injectors are starting to reach 90-100% duty cycle around 1.2 bar, which isn't ideal in the longrun.

 

You should be able to hit 400hp/420 ish ft.lbs at the flywheel with 1.2 Bar + on a healthy UK spec imo

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From a fueling perspective alone, the UK's are better equipped for 1.2 Bar +, given they have a highflow fuel pump and 550 injectors.

 

Most Jspecs I've played with using a standalone showing that the 440 injectors are starting to reach 90-100% duty cycle around 1.2 bar, which isn't ideal in the longrun.

 

You should be able to hit 400hp/420 ish ft.lbs at the flywheel with 1.2 Bar + on a healthy UK spec imo

 

 

Hope so mike, we will see if she’s healthy :thumbs:

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