Under body cleaning

[Krister]

I wouldnt use a wirebrush as it also removes the metal from the panels. I would use these types of brushes, it removes paint and rust but is gentle to the metal on the body.

 

 

 

If you have lots of rust, I wouldnt bother with that either, only way to remove it effectively is with water-sand blasting

[Scooter]

Krister, do you know what that it actually called? have a link?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAINT-RUST-REMOVAL-POLY-WHEEL-power-tool-bit/202033515016?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

 

I've been using, a mixture of plastic bristle brushes, (mild) de rusting chemicals, degreaser, all purpose cleaners and then on stubborn rust just a wire tooth brush. Only power tool usage has been a drill and wire brush and this has been on removed heat shields etc (although I will be attacking the rear subframe with this in time) but if the above is mild on the metal then I could perhaps use this and a drill to speed things up for me.

Edited September 12, 2017 by Scooter (see edit history)

[jackso11]

I use similar discs to that called 'Blaze rapid strip' discs. Great for taking stuff off without removing metal.

 

We do underealing at Autodoc for around the £500 +vat mark using Upol Raptor as the underseal. Very hardwearing stuff which we also use to paint the inside of pickup truck bucks. I keep meaning to take photos when we do a car so this week I did one myself and took a load of pictures. I let the before photo at work on the workshop camera but have the during and after photos on my phone so here they are. I will put them in my traders page too.

 

Obviously we can go as far as you want. We discuss with you first what components you want removing if any, if you want anything else coating or masking etc and keep you updated with pictures as the process goes on.

 

During, a lot of rust removed and treated at this stage...

 

And the finished undersealed body....

 

 

Also, this coating can be tinted so we can do it the colour of your car or any other colour if required.

Edited September 13, 2017 by jackso11 (see edit history)

[Scooter]

There seems to be so many products about! Dinitrol POR Upol etc etc etc!

 

My next stage is to crack open my Bilt Hamber deox gel and coat some hard to reach (or ceiling and vertical faces) surface rust areas.

 

I would say that diy'ing is obviously not for everyone and is very time consuming and hence borderline cost effective (I've probably spent £250 on bits and bobs so far - although I hope lots of the stuff will last for the other one), but you do learn a lot and know 100% the condition of everything and can treat each area as you see fit.

 

After another few weeks of crawling around £500 + vat might well feel more appealing!

[Dnk]

I wouldn't use sand and water I'd use soda blasting if I was going down that route, sand blasting can deform metalwork if

your not careful

[Scooter]

Well luckily I've not uncovered any significant body rust at all, so chemicals and elbow grease should suffice for prepping. The subframe I'm going to use power tools as there is more surface rust as it's not so well protected in the first place.

[phobos]

I wouldn't use sand and water I'd use soda blasting if I was going down that route, sand blasting can deform metalwork if

your not careful

 

Soda is not abrasive enough to remove rust. It is ideal for removing paint though.

[Scooter]

In the blurb on Bilt Hambers Deox Gel, it claims the particles from blasting can hinder coatings later added (but they would say that!?)

 

I'm going to try the gel on a test sample, hopefully apply tonight and then report back tomorrow night.

[jackso11]

We use degreaser, wire brushes, wire wheels, rapid strip wheels, sand paper, scotch pads, solvent wipes and a shed load of elbow grease to prep for this. If the car is particularly muddy underneath we will start with a preassure washer but then we would leave it inside for 24 hours before doing anything else so it drys out. You don't really want to be using a pressure washer to get corrosion off as you will end up having water where you want to put new underseal and there fore trapping moisture in causing further corrosion.

[Scooter]

Ok first off a before/after for the rust around the Tow hook and exhaust mount.

 

APC/Degreaser, then POR metal prep and a small wire tooth type brush.

 

The after picture is many days after it was done ie rust not instantly back. The metal prep has a phosphoric acid content (not strong) that protects the metal from re-rusting for a time on its own.

[Scooter]

Bilt Hamber Gel test.

 

I just grabbed a heat shield with varying rust on it. I had gone over this with a wire brush on a drill already.

 

I've put a pic up of before and after application. Will wash off tomorrow to see the results. On the right I've applied it as instructed, a few mm thick, middle is obviously untouched and the left i've experimented with thinner layers in places (not advised but thought i'd try it)

Edited September 13, 2017 by Scooter (see edit history)

[Iky]

The deox gel works good but usually needs multiple applications to get it all out the pitting. I've recently bought some frost rust remover liquid for leaving tools dipped in it that were rusted after flood damage. It works bloody brilliantly! It's similar to the evapo-rust they usually sell as well but were out of stock and offered me their own brand as an alternative. Obviously its no good for large parts you can't dip but i was very impressed. Next morning tools just had a black coating that just wipes and washes off leaving no rust whatsoever. Rust remover liquid from frost.co.uk =

[Krister]

If you have parts that need rust removed that are taken off the car, go and buy some citric acid from a pharmacy and mix it with water and leave them to soak in it for 1-2 days. Works like a charm.

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/Removing-Rust-with-Citric-Acid/

 

In a warm solution it works faster, but I've always used it in room temperature

Edited September 14, 2017 by Krister (see edit history)

[Scooter]

Not a success really! after photo not necessary as no real difference, need to remove more scaley rust mechanically first I think as there is only so much active ingredient in the gel so I think I gave it far too much to do!!

[peter richards]

didnt think it would work mate , read a load of reviews on it , as long as its got some thickness to it use a flap disc

[blythmrk]

I had my heat shields blasted they came up a treat then I rust cured them to make sure then refinished in silver.

[Scooter]

Tis all a learning curve! I'll get there, the main thing i'm realising is that compared to probably almost any other 94 car it's in fine condition underneath and nearly everything I've found is cosmetic (at this stage). I've got to make a decision soon to refit bits for the MOT that's due in a few weeks, spray with ACF-50 and wait for spring or, hold off the MOT and keep wading into it ie diff out subframe and steel suspension arm clean up etc etc etc

 

Veering towards the former, as I'd like to take an equally in depth look at the other one's underside to see if that's in more urgent need. In some ways there is no rush but then at times I just want to crack on!

 

I've got some time saturday morning, I will apply the gel to some light surface rust areas as I think that's more it's forte, while I clean up other bits and pieces.

[Scooter]

Ok so MOT is in a week or so, so i threw it all back together yesterday.

 

I was up against it time wise and doing lots of dirty work so no pics.

I decided to take some semi short cuts. The trans tunnel brace, fuel tank mini guard, and subframe support bars I just cleaned and sprayed with underseal, all mounting points for these and the heat shields I put a small amount of the more liquid underseal. The heat shields I painted with POR 15 silver and was impressed with this. ACF50 rubbed on the brake lines and rear sill sections just to temporarily protect.

 

So in essence i've tried the range of products I got just to see how they could be applied, and will check again in the spring on their state. The POR15 is the only real permanent coating hence why I just tested it on the heatshields.

 

Going to get the other one up for an assessment at some point.

[mwilkinson]

Was the POR 15 the paint on one?

[Scooter]

Yeah I got 6 (little) tins, x2 silver, x2 Clear and x2 black from a french supplier on ebay. I used a inch brush so not much finesse but then I didn't deem it important and was much quicker.