Brazil Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 Guys I presume since the oil pressure has not changed returning the oil filter to oem location instead of oil relocation I can put it back to use it since the weather is very hot here just now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 what is status??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 what is status??? Living in Bel Air with a butler and a chauffeur? Last time I spoke with Luiz he was carrying on running it and watching the oil pressure and other vital signs like a hawk. No detritus in the oil, no other signs of trouble. Syvecs map altered to kill engine if oil pressure dropped below X PSI at Y RPM. His engine builder seemed happy to not strip it, and hopefully it's still running well. I think Luiz said he was going on holiday, so perhaps that's why he hasn't updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 It could be that you`re pressure relief valve was sticky before the overheat and is now moving freely, i don`t think your pressures now are too bad, there are alot of things to affect oil pressure like oversized bearings etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 (edited) Living in Bel Air with a butler and a chauffeur? Last time I spoke with Luiz he was carrying on running it and watching the oil pressure and other vital signs like a hawk. No detritus in the oil, no other signs of trouble. Syvecs map altered to kill engine if oil pressure dropped below X PSI at Y RPM. His engine builder seemed happy to not strip it, and hopefully it's still running well. I think Luiz said he was going on holiday, so perhaps that's why he hasn't updated. It could be that you`re pressure relief valve was sticky before the overheat and is now moving freely, i don`t think your pressures now are too bad, there are alot of things to affect oil pressure like oversized bearings etc. Alright gents, Here is for the latest, I did some more mapping with Romain and when cracking turbo boost to 1 bar and revving till cut out 7500 +/- RPM the car had oil pressure hit a low of 3.2 bar and car cut out. I restarted the car and it cranked up fine, no strange noises and as long as I don't rev it past 4k RPM there is no alarms and low oil pressure issues. The Car continues to constantly maintain 4.2 bar at start up 'cold' and on temp 85 to 90 degrees idling 1 to 1.2 bar of oil pressure and I have concluded a lot of miles like this including motor way speeds. I am averaging 100 degrees oil temp after a 40 min drive in an airport strip road at 100 mph and the low oil pressure does not alter too much once the car is on temp idling and after a long drive showing same figures as listed above. I am thinking of draining the oil once again, filtering and possibly cut and check inside oil filter. I am most curious to look at the crank bearings for clearance - maybe they were tighten too much and when I first increased the rpm mapping the gap did not allow for flexing of crankshaft? I can also check the oil pick up at same time too. Now- would you say if the oil comes out clean when drained and filtered is clean should I drop the subframe inspect the crank shaft bearing and its clearance and if there is a clearance problem I am able to fix it without removing engine? How long would it take to remove the front sub frame to be able to get take off oil Sump and inspect the crank bearings? Could I be loosing oil pressure through the head at all? I have a VVTI head and had a lot of work done to it and after running it in and increasing revs etc have not re-tighten cams? possible to be loosing oil pressure through there? 'check first before crank bearings? To Add - Car has no Oil Leaks, Radiator Water is free of oil, engine oil cap is free of any water contamination, car does not have any strange noises when driving. Edited August 6, 2016 by Brazil (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 Is it now on a VVTi block Luiz? I am wondering how on earth the oil pressure drops at 4000 RPM and although huge bearing clearances on crank or cams can cause a high RPM pressure drop I am wondering if the VVTi system is mapped to do something around 4000 RPM. I guess you could get Romain to alter the VVTi map to NOT alter its status at all from that at idle and lower RPM see what happens to the oil pressure. I would never recommend fiddling with sumps off and the engine in the car!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 I think i would be looking at changing the oil pump/pressure relief valve, i know it sounds unnecessary, but from experience of how the pump can behave i think its s possibility that it has problems/wear, i have had a badly worn pump maintain a very healthy pressure, while leaking like a sieve and pressurising the front main seal and causing multiple faliure, however i would at least start with replacing the pressure relief valve BB and spring and see if that helps, as its the cheapest option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 (edited) Is it now on a VVTi block Luiz? I am wondering how on earth the oil pressure drops at 4000 RPM and although huge bearing clearances on crank or cams can cause a high RPM pressure drop I am wondering if the VVTi system is mapped to do something around 4000 RPM. I guess you could get Romain to alter the VVTi map to NOT alter its status at all from that at idle and lower RPM see what happens to the oil pressure. I would never recommend fiddling with sumps off and the engine in the car!! Hi Chris, Yes its the original VVTI block and the deal is the oil pressure was fine after Romain new map increasing boost to .8 bar. It was only when I arrived home that the car overheated because of my bad crumpling of wire job. I fixed the wiring so fans were good, I then started the car and went for a tes drive was only then that the Lower Oil pressure issues started. Romain Replied This: The VVTi is a close circuit, it will move the angle of the cams but the oil pressure should not drop whatever you do unless the vvt seals is busted Edited August 6, 2016 by Brazil (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 It's surely not closed circuit? The engine oil pressure must act on the solenoid piston, but must surely also have an escape path, so the piston can return. I have never had cause to investigate just HOW they work, hydraulics wise. Is it using the stock oil pipework to the VVTi solenoid? All the above is just me thinking aloud, and as you say the oil presure *WAS* perfect before it over heated I cannot see how a VVTi issue could have been caused by over heating... All rather odd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 I am thinking its a combination more of the first time that had my rpm increased too. Along side the gated community where I live I have a long straight and I full throttle it till RPM limit too than it only been done 3 times during a quick mapping and increase boost to .8 bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 I presume you have checked the oil pick up tube in the sump is not loose and sucking in air? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 I presume you have checked the oil pick up tube in the sump is not loose and sucking in air? No, I have not pulled engine out yet. Am taking to my mechanic on Monday. I noticed when driving yesterday that when I acelerate hard the oil pressure had a tendency to drop/dip pressure before increasing. And if I acelerate slowly gradually it's less likely of that happening and the oil pressure raised above what normally it would go to. Why do you think that could be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 If oil pressure is dropping under hard acceleration, it could be that there is either not enough oil in the sump, or that it needs a baffled sump due to the oil mass moving away from the the oil pick up and its sucking air, or even partially blocked with some debris/sealer, or its loose on the fitting and sucking air occasionally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 How common is a baffled sump on a supra? Don't hear of many with them which surprised me a bit, but then not much need on motorway cruisers I suppose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 (edited) Would have to be pretty low oil level wouldn't it to be suffering from surge in the mkiv sump ? There is a baffle plate between the two oil pans Edited August 7, 2016 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 *Could* be a blocked pick up strainer gauze, or the pickup itself is leaking where it bolts to the upper sump casting. I also get to see upper sump castings that have cracked around the pick up through hole due to the wrong O ring being fitted between the sump upper section and the engine block, or too much sealant being used. This is obviously worrying you, so I guess it's time to pull the engine out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 *Could* be a blocked pick up strainer gauze, or the pickup itself is leaking where it bolts to the upper sump casting. I also get to see upper sump castings that have cracked around the pick up through hole due to the wrong O ring being fitted between the sump upper section and the engine block, or too much sealant being used. This is obviously worrying you, so I guess it's time to pull the engine out. Thank you for your time helping me troubleshooting this problem I am going to drop car at the garage tomorrow and hope they can prioritize the work needed on the car and find out what is wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 Ok guys might have had a lucky escape but need a forward plan. I just drained the oil through 2x filters and we collects a lot of rubber sealant must be from the oil sump. That day would of been the first time the oil would of had boost operated oil temp since we mapped at .8 bar and it was enough to disintegrate it and block the oil pick up. So what do you suggest I rectify this problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 This is a classic sign of far too much sealant being used, I see it all the time. Drop the tin sump and see how much sealant has oozed into the the inside of the sealant joint. Expect ALL none gasketed joints to be the same. Clean the strainer after posting a photo of just how much silicone is traped in there. You MAY be able to pull some excess off the upper sump to block joint through the gaps. If they have used silicone on the pick up pipe to upper sump some will have gone through the oil pump. It may or may not have eaten it without damage.... I posted a thread on this very subject a while back. About a Skyline RB33 GTR of a customer's that had bearing failure through the strainer being full of excess silicone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor69 Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 I was concerned about this a while ago when I sealed my sump so when I'd applied the sealant I pressed the pan onto the upper sump then pulled it away for a moment while I removed the "ooze" from inside and then bolted them together, totally dry with no leaks and the added peace of mind knowing "inner ooze" would not be an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Here you go: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?326100-Sealant-its-use-and-misuse&highlight=sealant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Hopefully its that simple mate you deserve a break with this car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 I was concerned about this a while ago when I sealed my sump so when I'd applied the sealant I pressed the pan onto the upper sump then pulled it away for a moment while I removed the "ooze" from inside and then bolted them together, totally dry with no leaks and the added peace of mind knowing "inner ooze" would not be an issue. Yes, that's a good way to see where it's likely to end up, nice idea. You need surprisingly little to effect a good seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 Is it possible to remove the pan to clean the bottom of the sump and oil pick up line without removing engine? Has anybody done this before, is there any threads about it on here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 You can, yes, you may have to either lift the engine off both mounts with a bar across the engine bay and a threaded rod and hook, or you can just about drop the sump enough to undo the pick up strainer bolts and remove the pick up, then wangle the sump past the cross member. Or you can drop the cross member instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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