crank pulley, thought few hours then found??,oh well

[syco]

Following on from this:

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?332497-good-ride-out-then-not-so-good-lol

 

thought I would tackle this today after recieving my new one.

 

Started stripping parts down to get at offending item. Rad cap was in this state but unknowing to me ,worse to come.

 

 

visible melting marks were the outer ring must have spun into.

 

 

then found this awaiting me when I went to bolt my home made bar into, initial thought was broken bolts from a previous removal attempt from previous owner/s. But when took a piccy and zoomed in it actually looks like the holes have been welded up. Why would someone do this??

Anyway this as complicated matters and decided to pack in and thick on it for abit lol. it always amazes me what you find bodged by previous work as a new owner :banghead:

 

 

 

[Frank Bullitt]

Any signs that the crank pulley could have perviously failed and rather than change it the previous owner did a quick fix in the hope no one noticed?

[syco]

Any signs that the crank pulley could have perviously failed and rather than change it the previous owner did a quick fix in the hope no one noticed?

 

To be honest, yes I am starting to think that , was more likely a garage than owner, the amount of bodgies I have seen by so called proffessionals never seizes to amaze me from family n friends cars.

[Pudsey]

That's studs that have snapped off, leaving the remainder of the thread in the pulley.

[MattP]

Just drill and tap 2 new holes pain in the arse but easy enough to get around

[syco]

Just drill and tap 2 new holes pain in the arse but easy enough to get around

 

Wanted to think on it first before removing rad and doing that as I have not got one of them fancy 90degree drill accessories.thought a couples of ways, just gotta see if they work.

[Al Massey]

A pulley puller should get the crank pulley off

[Fizzy T]

That looks like a whole load of fun, someone clearly snapped off their bolts in it, ground them back and left it.

[berg]

You will need to dril and tap 2 new holes for that

 

Also dont count on a 90 degree drill attachment even working, once you add the drill bit to it the rad is still in the way, been there done that

[suprasurrey]

As the pulley has now separated I would think a pulley puller would pop that off quite easily.

[renegade]

have you tried to see if it just comes off. without drilling

[syco]

Ain't sure how to multi quote so just replying generally.

Puller won't work unless I drill the 2 holes needed plus I am wondering if the bolts snapped from bar holding crank while pulley bolt was being undone or if it was from a pulley remover which would mean the pulley bolt must be seized pretty good.

Unfortunately due to my insurance and were the car needs to be kept while not being used, I can not jack it up or gain access to it from below which is also hindering my preferred removal.

 

Pulley bolt first.

As any one on here used a breaker bar locked against the floor method on the 2jz, would be my last resort method but curious?

 

Never had an auto before so might be a dum Q ,also not at home so cant check yet.

Can you use first or second to lock the crank with an auto??

 

Also anyone got the torque setting for the crank pulley as I have not got any kind of manual yet.

 

Being has I have got to drill holes either way, I am going to attempt to drill through the side at each end and insert a solid bar for leverage to undo the crank bolt and hopefully it will slide off.if not will adapt my homemade bar to fit and see how it goes lol

[Scooter]

if access is tight and a normal puller won't fit it, as its junk now you could get an inch wide strip of metal (3-4mm thick), bend it over at each end so that from above or below you can drill and screw it in to the pulley where your belt currently sits/where the outer pulley used to be. Then having already loosened the pulley bolt, you can reach in over the inch wide plate with a 22mm spanner and just undo the bolt into the plate and it'll pull the pulley off with it.

[Scooter]

Yes in your situation I would try the starter crank method to undo. Just remove one of the efi fuses and then try and start the car without the bar on to satisfy yourself it won't start! then try with the bar/socket

Edited April 7, 2016 by Scooter (see edit history)

[syco]

if access is tight and a normal puller won't fit it, as its junk now you could get an inch wide strip of metal (3-4mm thick), bend it over at each end so that from above or below you can drill and screw it in to the pulley where your belt currently sits/where the outer pulley used to be. Then having already loosened the pulley bolt, you can reach in over the inch wide plate with a 22mm spanner and just undo the bolt into the plate and it'll pull the pulley off with it.

 

Yes this what I had in mind,was gonna bolt to pieces of angle to my bar then bolt through that into the hole I am drilling in the side of the pulley, just hope that it works.

 

Will keep posting as it goes but ain't sure when will work on it next.

[Al Massey]

A pulley puller doesn't require any bolts into those holes.

[syco]

A pulley puller doesn't require any bolts into those holes.

 

My homemade one does and I don't feel like spending money when I can make it.

 

But as a querry have you got a link to the kind you are referring to as I only know the ones that bolt in holes or ones which require a lip to pull against.

[xm 80]

so you just want to unscrew the bolt on the crankshaft? if so why not use the method some of the members on supraforums.com use....i know it's a bit "risky" (IMO) but it works for them. just use starter to crank the bolt open. as far as i recall they unmount the fuse for the fuel pump get the bar in place (bolt on crankshaft) and just "try" to start it a few times. not sure if this really works well, but i read a couple of times (from several guys) that it works just fine.

[JayJay1374]

so you just want to unscrew the bolt on the crankshaft? if so why not use the method some of the members on supraforums.com use....i know it's a bit "risky" (IMO) but it works for them. just use starter to crank the bolt open. as far as i recall they unmount the fuse for the fuel pump get the bar in place (bolt on crankshaft) and just "try" to start it a few times. not sure if this really works well, but i read a couple of times (from several guys) that it works just fine.

 

I can confirm this works. I wedged a breaker bar on under the chassis leg, one flick of the key with the fuel pump fuse out and it was loose.

[Al Massey]

Yep that's the method I used too

[Chris Wilson]

You can't lock an auto box up, you would have to jam the ring gear. I would use the starter method, but I would leave it so it CAN start so the twin cam position sensors can earn their keep. They mean the engine will fire in less than half a revolution and with any luck a firing stroke will add torque to undoing the bolt. Whether the snapped bolts were caused by locking the pulley against undoing torque, or pulling the undone pulley off is anyone's guess, but I have NEVER liked the use of 2 8mm bolts to hold the torque involved in undoing and doing up the crank pulley centre bolt that the Toyota official tool uses...

 

Have fun

[markssupra]

Oh dear, thats not good!

 

It might be worth you trying a screw extractor if you can drill a small hole into the broken bolts. Would be an idea to spray wd40 on them and the pulley bolt a few times and let it work in.

 

You also have the problem of torquing it back up to 324 Nm, which is rather tight, without a way to hold it.

[syco]

You can't lock an auto box up, you would have to jam the ring gear. I would use the starter method, but I would leave it so it CAN start so the twin cam position sensors can earn their keep. They mean the engine will fire in less than half a revolution and with any luck a firing stroke will add torque to undoing the bolt. Whether the snapped bolts were caused by locking the pulley against undoing torque, or pulling the undone pulley off is anyone's guess, but I have NEVER liked the use of 2 8mm bolts to hold the torque involved in undoing and doing up the crank pulley centre bolt that the Toyota official tool uses...

 

Have fun

 

Yes I agree, 2 m8 bolts is a very poor way to of done it considering the stresses involved. I have always used the cranking/breaker bar way when not been able to do it the way you should.

 

So its 324 nm what those bolts have to hold against when tightening back,thats a lot.

 

AL Massey

 

Just had another look at the pulley and it appears that a legged pulley might work as the edges of the rear of pulley are accessible, is it those pulleys you were referring to. I actually thought that rear section was recessed into the block, I should have looked closer before packing in on discovering the broken bolts lol. But still ,I would prefer to save money by fabbing one up if it don't pull off when I work on it next.

 

thanks for the input so far guys.

[xm 80]

isn't it 300Nm that hold the center bolt to the crankshaft??

[Al Massey]

Yes I agree, 2 m8 bolts is a very poor way to of done it considering the stresses involved. I have always used the cranking/breaker bar way when not been able to do it the way you should.

 

So its 324 nm what those bolts have to hold against when tightening back,thats a lot.

 

AL Massey

 

Just had another look at the pulley and it appears that a legged pulley might work as the edges of the rear of pulley are accessible, is it those pulleys you were referring to. I actually thought that rear section was recessed into the block, I should have looked closer before packing in on discovering the broken bolts lol. But still ,I would prefer to save money by fabbing one up if it don't pull off when I work on it next.

 

thanks for the input so far guys.

 

Yeah that's what I meant, sorry should have clarified better.