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DO-Luck V1 - HKS Build Thread


Brazil

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Ok gents, a little update!

 

I received the service parts for my Gilken Clutch from Chris Wilson and it been installed and the difference is like day & night; its obvious that the previous garage were not diligent during the adjustment of the clutch on my car and there was so much pressure on it that it concave the discs.

 

The mechanical outstanding jobs to complete is to fix my fuel guage needle will only show half tank to full even though I would be on empty.

 

My wing mirror indicator is not working, the previous garage cut a wire.

 

The Syvecs wiring is really messy, need to secure it and tidy up the wires.

 

On the exterior I am having blitz side skirts fitted, my new custom spoiler, painting boot, front bumper, bonnet, blending rear bumper and side skirts, fitting red race tow bar in front of car.

 

I also changed my tinted windows to a lighter tint.

Edited by Brazil (see edit history)
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I am pleased the rebuild kit has sorted things, and in a way even more pleased it has shown you and the readers that my diagnosis of WHY your last engine that I rebuilt failed was correct and not buck passing. It's always awkward to tell someone their fresh engine died not because of an error in its rebuild, but due to installation, set up, or mapping issues beyond the builder's control. When you rang to say the clutch discs in your original clutch were "dished" and different to the new ones I supplied I assumed it was some very elderly Giken clutch I had never come across, with dished carriers, like many AP Racing clutches use to allow multiple plates to "nest" closer together, reducing inertia from the need for thicker intermediate plates, and resulting also in a reduced overall package length. I then subsequently realised you might have meant the actual friction material part of the plates were *bent*. It then dawned on me this was what you meant and is caused by an over adjusted clutch where the bearing actually presses the diaphragm's release fingers into the first friction plate. The clutch won't release properly so the person setting it up decides it needs to have even MORE movement, not less. Then the huge forces generated by the hydraulics actually bend the friction discs. As an aside the thrust bearings on the engines crankshaft are now under permanent compression, and the oil film is wiped out when the engine is started or idling. Massive heat is generated and the bearings partially fuse to the crank thrust faces. The bearings and more often than not, the crank too, is destroyed, bearing material goes around the oil system and in seconds one has a scrap engine.

 

 

The clutch makers should make more of this potential issue, but they make scant mention of it in most cases.

 

I am pleased you are now up and running again, but for those reading this *PLEASE* be sure to check your aftermarket clutch has free play in the linkage and you can lever the release bearing quite easily away from the release fingers with a long screwdriver, or similar, through the bellhousing clutch inspection plate holes.

 

 

*ALSO* never start an engine with a severe duty aftermarket clutch (or any engine for that matter) with your foot depressing the clutch. Modern cars and US market cars with a clutch / starter interlock switch that *DEMANDS* you press the clutch down in order for the starter to work are a total abortion, and result in excess thrust wear, and with aftermarket clutches, potential engine failure. If you are happy you are not breaking any local laws bypass the damned switch and allow engine start without depressing the clutch!!!

 

 

I feel this should be edited and made a sticky, I am rebuilding a Skyline engine that died through the same issues in the New Year.

 

 

All the best for Christmas Luiz, and a healthy and prosperous New Year, although the latter does not seem a concern of yours given your profligate spending habits on cars ;)

Edited by Chris Wilson
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  • 3 weeks later...
Im glad your pleased with it mate been a hard and long time coming but all good things come to those who wait and have a wedge in there pocket ;)

 

Thanks buddy, it's been a long road it really is incredible how long its been!

 

Here's the full video, I just love the sound it makes!

 

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Nice choice. Are you having them blended? only reason I ask Is i see the body shop has drilled holes on the on show part of the skirt.

 

I Will have them blended but at a later date I am really eager to drive it right now; I am foing to wait too because I plan on changing to 315 Toyo R888 rear 'from 295' and I am sure I need arch work so going to get it all done at same time when I am not going to need the car for a while.

 

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Car is out of the bodyshop and it's looking and running super! "Touch wood will keep like it till I have it ready to fully map it'

 

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Below my 4 series cabrio the supra

 

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Our house hold cars; Mercedes E class AMG, BMW 4 series cabrio and my Supra!

 

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Edited by Brazil (see edit history)
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