Slutters Posted April 7, 2013 Author Share Posted April 7, 2013 (edited) Oh no! A solid crank pulley Oh no, another sheep..... I also added a new alloy flywheel and twin plate that's lighter than stock. I don't see how changing the weight on the crank at one end vs the other will make any difference. I am willing to test this for you guys, i don't mind being a test dummy! Edited April 7, 2013 by Slutters (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonR24 Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Sure we will bump into each other and i will take you for a spin. Sounds good mate, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westy Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Love the wheels...are they CCWs!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sukhy Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Great work fella.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Right guys, bit of an update since last time! Hi guys Wanted to share this set of mods with you, mostly because I was unaware of the improvements that could be made! Firstly, thanks to: http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost - lots of detailed info, even Supra stuff on there! No BS, just simple, easy to read info! http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?197330-FMIC-ducting-install – the inspiration! Firstly here is a screen shot of the issue. This was on a 20 degree Celsius day, no boost just stop start driving! 52 degrees! Ouch! The point being, this heat is going to heatsoak the intercooler before you even consider the massive load the boost will add! The sensor is located right on the throttle body so is a true reflection of what is going on. So after much reading I set about reducing my inlet temps, this is the story! This is how my single setup looked, very similar to many others I have seen! You can see the black ducting I had to the left, it was clearly going nothing. This was my previous ducting, it was a quick bodge, you can see how much air flow I was wasting when you compare it to the pic with no bumper. So, with the bumper off, I set about removing some of the ‘funnel’ to increase my expansion chamber after The ducting I made, its made from very thin steel, I will be getting it re-made but I only have a mig. It’s fairly light, not as light as aluminium but better than no ducting! All the tiny joins were sealed too. Next up I wanted to get the air filter out of the bay, I did want to get rid of the K&N after seeing just how bad they were on the MaxBoost website, however my commercial paper replacement was a little…err….too big! Whoops! So, back to the K&N for a few months until I fine a smaller paper commercial filter. Wanted some more airflow to the filter so some more came off the bumper Also, had to make a 4.5” hole in the inner wing, not what I wanted to do but I had no choice. gasket added I used this for the inlet pipe, its suitable for 100 degrees and 6 bar so plenty for an inlet i then lagged this with industrial pipe lagging and sealed with aluminium tape. No **** taking, I know it looks like a big hover… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Whilst taking this pic I noticed the second issue! Look how close the compressor housing is to the exhaust manifold! On big boost it must add some much heat to the already hot compressed air! So I looked around for something to help! I found a Saab 9-3 turbo heatshield, 2 bits of aluminium filled with asbestos! Yes! Gave it a clean Then fitted I know it looks a bit silly but function of form! Covered the inlet pipe also Now the intercooler and inlet is sorted I turned to the radiator. I had AC but never had it gassed. I have removed the rad but left all the pipes so if the next owner wants it, its just a case of 4 bolts and a re-gas. Intercooler removed showing the old AC rad, that can’t help airflow! in the next pics you can see all the gaps around the radiator, as air goes for the path of least resistance I was losing some cooling potential here. Bottom left bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 bottom right And aluminium taped up, 3 layers so its strong and forces the air through the rad instead of going around it! Also I noticed this gap at the top added some foam Started refitting up Intercooler back on with rubber seals where the ducting meets the edges just about to fit the ducting and my mate Dan has trolled me! Twat! Anyway ducting on I found a place to fit the air filter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 I had brought an engine tray and a bumper tray but with my new mods they no longer fitted. Air flow is much better with a tray and helps to create low pressure in the engine bay. This is the gap between the fmic and rad, you can see the gap at the bottom, I would be losing lots of air from there! So, some 4mm plastic sheet! the underside Due to my air filter location I didn’t want the wheel throwing water onto the air filter, and I also wanted to use the low pressue of the wheel to pull air past the filter. As my splitter has a duct in it I also wanted to use that as otherwise it’s a waste! So… Heres the new lower mud guard. You can see the rounded gap near the inside of the wheel to help with airflow another angle inside the lower splitter duct, forcing air to the filter And what’s all that work worth? Well went for a ride last night and after a long run, sat idling I had temps of…. 25 degrees! Nearly halved! Dyno next week so lets hope my new mods get me some ‘free’ horsepower! Right, with mapping due in a few days i decided to do the last few changes ready. Gave the inlet a clean for the injector bungs to be welded in HKS Fuel rail O ring! Leaking! Inlet removed TC Delete Painting up the new inlet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Moved the battery to the boot Fuel rail and injector bosses welded in New Water/Meth injection tank Water injection kit and thinker inlet manifold gaskets Old OEM vs new ones Rail painted and injectors installed And all finished! Fitting water injection kit Welded a plate to the end of the chassis leg Water injection nozzle Next up was my coil pack upgrade Old ingnitor Removing the old injectors Mojo Coilpacks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Old at the top Vs the new monstors! Full guide comes with the kit Loom in Igniter removed New loom Soldering to old loom Joining car loom to Mojo All finished and ignitor gone All was going well! Car went for mapping And well.... it blew up So the next day... Not looking great Ahh, thats the issue then... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Block is now waiting for some new forged pistons! Head is scrap Just ordered all the engine parts so while i was waiting i stripped out the plugs i no longer needed from the loom before After Scrap Also took the chance to do some porting on my wastegate as it was boost creeping And added some new oil coolers! Rubber mounted Bumper trimmed and ducted Well! That's it for now, lots of updates to come, all the new engine bits are here now. Just waiting on machine work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Wow, nice build Sultters Can I please ask- when you made up the braided clutch line, do you need any special tools to crimp the end joints? I always thought any hydraulic hoses need special machines to crimp on the fittings to cope with the higher pressures involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Wow, nice build Sultters Can I please ask- when you made up the braided clutch line, do you need any special tools to crimp the end joints? I always thought any hydraulic hoses need special machines to crimp on the fittings to cope with the higher pressures involved. Made it myself mate, no need for any special tool's as long as you get a nice clean straight cut it's easy as pie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d-_-b Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Wow, what a thread!! Love it, and love the work and supporting mods you have been doing. Excellent read - keep up the great updates, hats off to you for taking the time to take all the pics and put it all up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetrashcanman Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Awesome work so far dude, sorry to hear about her going wrong after mapping is it particularly difficult to do the battery to boot relocation? Only asking as you make everything look so easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Great work but just wish to add that the ducting possibly isn't as efficient as it could be. I've attached a simple drawing i found explaining why Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 (edited) Some nice work on the ducting of the IC What FMIC is it, it looks quite narrow? A wider FMIC would make better use of the frontal area available. Are you fitting a turbo blanket? A good quality blanket (Dei) would make a significant difference to the engine bay/intake temps. Edited July 18, 2013 by Nic (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Great work but just wish to add that the ducting possibly isn't as efficient as it could be. I've attached a simple drawing i found explaining why That's true, however how can you create the bottom picture on the horizontal plane without reducing frontal area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Some nice work on the ducting of the IC What FMIC is it, it looks quite narrow? A wider FMIC would make better use of the frontal area available. Are you fitting a turbo blanket? A good quality blanket (Dei) would make a significant difference to the engine bay/intake temps. http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r532/karmadino/P1040451_zpsa3328a6f.jpg It's a 600MM wide core, on the dyno we had to turn off the fans as the inlet temps were so low and Sam needed to get some more heat into the core! A turbo blanket would make no difference in my application with regards to intake temps as the filter is out of the engine bay. I will be adding one however for under bonnet temps as you say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Nice work on the ducting, I'm thinking of mounting my coolers in the side duct instead of behind the intercooler. Looks smart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Great work but just wish to add that the ducting possibly isn't as efficient as it could be. I've attached a simple drawing i found explaining why Just to add, my duct sits inside of the orignal bumper mouth like: So hopefully that edge would prevent the loss of air, however i guess that as the molecules stack up and they reduce in speed to pass through the core you will lose some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 (edited) It's a 600MM wide core, on the dyno we had to turn off the fans as the inlet temps were so low and Sam needed to get some more heat into the core! A turbo blanket would make no difference in my application with regards to intake temps as the filter is out of the engine bay. I will be adding one however for under bonnet temps as you say. A good quality turbo blanket would make a big difference, it stops the majority of the radiated heat from the turbo, heat that increases the engine bay temps and subsequently the intake and IC piping temps. On a dyno you could get the turbo hot side glowing red but the turbo blanket would be just warm to the touch. Edited July 18, 2013 by Nic (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Nice work on the ducting, I'm thinking of mounting my coolers in the side duct instead of behind the intercooler. Looks smart Thanks mate, i did think of doing that also, however i didn't want to pre-heat the water radiator with the oil cooler's waste air. Big HP requires lots of cooling, those 2 oil coolers are both 20,000BTU so only really JUST big enough! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 A good quality turbo blanket would make a big difference, it stops the majority of the radiated heat from the turbo, heat that increases the engine bay temps and subsequently the intake and IC piping temps. On a dyno you could get the turbo hot side glowing red but the turbo blanket would be just warm to the touch. As i said, i will be adding one for underbonnet temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Thanks mate, i did think of doing that also, however i didn't want to pre-heat the water radiator with the oil cooler's waste air. Big HP requires lots of cooling, those 2 oil coolers are both 20,000BTU so only really JUST big enough! Yeah I see. My coolers are for the transmission but I don't have any engine oil coolers. Maybe something for the new build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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