Wez Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 Firsty I would run the car and see if you have any ignition problems, then if needed I would look at either converting to something like the TT ignition system or upgrade the stock coil for a newer higher powered unit from the likes of MSD http://www.msdignition.com/info.aspx?taxid=6&taxid2=78 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 (edited) I am upgrading the coil, considering a Nology 45,000 volt, and the H.T. leads, and also wondering if a dual spark system would be compatible with the HKS Twin Power? Looking to give the best spark I can get. I was put off changing to coil on plug because of reports of unnaccountable missfires with a few of the N/A/T's that had been converted. Nevertheless, I have chosen my route, now I just need to find a few last bits. That's why I'm asking on here. Edited October 24, 2009 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 If you are already upgrading the coil then the HKS DLI is a complete waste of money, spend it somewhere else where you can get the benefit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 I had planned to use the HKS, because of the good reports, but getting a stronger coil for now because I can't find one. When one does come along, I can compare the two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 I had planned to use the HKS, because of the good reports, but getting a stronger coil for now because I can't find one. When one does come along, I can compare the two. If you have a bigger coil (proper setup) then its not required. They are used on TTs when converting to AEM as the AEM converts the ignition from direct fire to wasted spark, this halves the coil recharge time which then reduces spark power, the DLI is a fudge to get the spark power back. If on a TT you use an ECU that doesnt convert to wasted spark then a DLI isnt require, for example I ran a DLI for years on my AEM, once I switched to the Solaris S6GP ECU the DLI was removed as direct fire ignition was restored. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 It is normal to use an AEM 30-1101 for an N/A with MAF. However, the AEM I have to use is the T.T. 30-1100, which I hope to be plug and play because my Jap spec N/A engine uses MAP, not MAF. I assume that this unit will produce 'wasted spark', is this compatible with a 'proper' strong coil set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Seems an awful lot of expense, time and trouble to gain 20 odd BHP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 I assume that this unit will produce 'wasted spark', is this compatible with a 'proper' strong coil set up? The ECU wont be driving the ignition system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 It might not be driving anything yet! Ryan G tells me that the AEM ECU is not good with Auto's, and guess what, mine is an auto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 It might not be driving anything yet! Ryan G tells me that the AEM ECU is not good with Auto's, and guess what, mine is an auto. Auto and aem dont work well together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 This information has thrown a spanner into the project Please excuse my ignorance, but what difference does the gearbox make to setting up the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 This information has thrown a spanner into the project :roll eyes: Please excuse my ignorance, but what difference does the gearbox make to setting up the engine? The stock ECU controls the gearbox, people that have tried to use AEM on a stock auto box have always had very harsh gear changes and trouble with points of change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Please excuse my ignorance, but what difference does the gearbox make to setting up the engine? The ECU controls the gearbox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branners Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 The stock ECU controls the gearbox, people that have tried to use AEM on a stock auto box have always had very harsh gear changes and trouble with points of change. I would go further to say it has been detrimental to the life of a few auto gearboxes that I know of. The ECU may have moved on over the years, but it certainly used to be attributed to at least a few auto gearbox failures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 Mmmmm:think: Looks like the manual gear box conversion just went higher up on the priorities list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Mmmmm:think: Looks like the manual gear box conversion just went higher up on the priorities list Would be cheaper to sell your motor and buy a TT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branners Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 I do think you need to sit back and look at the costs of getting an NA up to 300bhp. It is a very noble thing to do and a proven 300bhp on an NA would be great, but you will spend a fortune on engine work along with injectors, ECU and now a manual conversion when you could simply buy a twin turbo manual and run it at stock and still be quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) This 300hp N/A project is a personal goal, which I believe can be acheived without spending huge sums of money. When finished, will have more power than a stock Jap T.T, and in total, a lot less than buying one, with insurance at half the price. I am adding the items as upgraded to my signature, and look forward to the 'Day of Reconning' on the rollers. I have accumulated all the engine parts I need, except a coil. A manual gearbox and limited slip diff swop was already on my list, I can sell what comes off to subsidise the cost, and not that it matters, but the car will be worth a grand more for the change anyway. This is my every day car, and with the current mods is averaging around 32mpg on an urban cycle, I expect this to be up to around 35 when completed. All the work is being done with my own fair hands, I am fabricating many of the parts to my own designs, and re-engineering others, it keeps me out of mischief I enjoy tinkering with my Supra Furthermore, I am sure that there are many N/A owners that could benefit from this project. Edited October 24, 2009 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallshinyant Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 looking forward to seeing what you can get out of the n/a. shame your going to have to swap the auto out though. a 300Bhp n/a auto would make a fantastic everyday car. Either way good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 This 300hp N/A project is a personal goal, which I believe can be acheived without spending huge sums of money. When finished, will have more power than a stock Jap T.T, and in total, a lot less than buying one, with insurance at half the price. I am adding the items as upgraded to my signature, and look forward to the 'Day of Reconning' on the rollers. I have accumulated all the engine parts I need, except a coil. A manual gearbox and limited slip diff swop was already on my list, I can sell what comes off to subsidise the cost, and not that it matters, but the car will be worth a grand more for the change anyway. This is my every day car, and with the current mods is averaging around 32mpg on an urban cycle, I expect this to be up to around 35 when completed. All the work is being done with my own fair hands, I am fabricating many of the parts to my own designs, and re-engineering others, it keeps me out of mischief I enjoy tinkering with my Supra Furthermore, I am sure that there are many N/A owners that could benefit from this project. Have you added all the costs up? what does it come to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 This 300hp N/A project is a personal goal, which I believe can be acheived without spending huge sums of money. When finished, will have more power than a stock Jap T.T, and in total, a lot less than buying one, with insurance at half the price. I am very interested to hear just how you plan to achieve 300BHP from the N;A? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) The bits used I will continue to list in my signature. Some second hand, some hand made and some new. If cost is important to you, I will let you keep tabs on it Edited October 24, 2009 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 The bits used I will continue to list in my signature. Some second hand, some hand made and some new. If cost is important to you, I will let you keep tabs on it Well so far i cannot see anything that could possibly get you anywhere near 240BHP (presuming your engine is in tip top shape and making the std 220BHP) Cost is not at all important, i am genuinely curious as to how you could possibly achieve this figure? Are you going to completely rebuild the engine from the crank up? You so far don't even list cams or throttle bodies? (which is the only way you stand any real hope of getting any more sensible power, along with a capacity increase. You even list an exhaust system designed for a turbocharged version, which will actually loose you power. I admire your optimism but i really can't see it happening, i have never heard of a 2JZGE engine putting out that sort of power even from one of the major Japanese tuners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) Please be patient, I can't work any faster I have loads of pieces nearly ready to go on, next week I hope, when I find the opportunity and it's not raining Busy working on an inlet manifold, (waiting delivery of sensors) cutting back the lips (done) sound insulating rear quarter panels, (done) modifying suspension (done) ready for the wheels (being re-faced) (need painting) and tyres (waiting delivery) to go on too I am busy, and as I said, the bits will be listed as they go on. Both the induction and exhaust systems are one off's to my spec, I pay great attention to detail of each component, the exhaust system for example. It is proven that for an N/A Supra, 2 ½” is best for torque and 3” is best for horse power, with 2 ¾” being the usual compromise. Ideally you need 2 1/2" for low revs and cruise, and 3" for the track. So I have designed and built a system that lets you have your cake and eat it too! Autobahn88 exhaust manifold, thermal wrapped. Blitz 3" midpipe, thermal wrapped. 3" H.K.S. cat back exhaust system. Magnaflow 200 core racing cat immediately after flange. Wideband sensor fitted into front of cat. 2 X Morosso 94501 spiral racing mufflers, 1 immediately after cat, and the other just before the back box. (1 would be sufficient for most, but I drive long distances and wanted peace and quiet on cruise) Apexi Integration 155-A025 spring loaded tail silencer at back. The manifold, midpipe, cat, spiral mufflers and back box are all 3" bore for horse power, utilizing the spring loaded tail pipe to restrict gasses at low revs and cruise giving torque, which under load opens up and lets the horses out. These components had to come from 'somewhere', so it is understandable that some are T.T. items. Both induction and exhaust systems have given significant power gains, and I continue to develop other components to further improve the induction. Sounds good too Edited October 25, 2009 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 (edited) i realy hate to burst your bubble but it realy isnt going to gain you 300hp. At most id say 250 and even thats pushing it unless your engine is 100% tip top condition engine work, imo, needs doing. Edited November 9, 2009 by Kirk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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