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Supercharger Project


madmarf
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Stick a 1UZ V8 in it with a Bullet Cars manifold kit. Much easier to fit the blower in the "V" :) (I know, the point is to create something unique. Although I know of only one blown UZ Supra project in the UK).

 

Costs peanuts.

Drops on to the Supra crossmember with Soarer V8 engine mounts.

Autobox is basically the same as the Supra auto, or there are plenty of manual conversion options (including the Supra W58 5-speed).

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Stick a 1UZ V8 in it with a Bullet Cars manifold kit. Much easier to fit the blower in the "V" :) (I know, the point is to create something unique. Although I know of only one blown UZ Supra project in the UK).

 

Costs peanuts.

Drops on to the Supra crossmember with Soarer V8 engine mounts.

Autobox is basically the same as the Supra auto, or there are plenty of manual conversion options (including the Supra W58 5-speed).

 

FFS, he's supercharging an N/A because that's what he wants to do, a V8! totally different ball game and he's well into the project now! :rolleyes:

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Stick a 1UZ V8 in it with a Bullet Cars manifold kit. Much easier to fit the blower in the "V" :) (I know, the point is to create something unique. Although I know of only one blown UZ Supra project in the UK).

 

Costs peanuts.

Drops on to the Supra crossmember with Soarer V8 engine mounts.

Autobox is basically the same as the Supra auto, or there are plenty of manual conversion options (including the Supra W58 5-speed).

 

FFS, he's supercharging an N/A because that's what he wants to do, a V8! totally different ball game and he's well into the project now! :rolleyes:
Hence the smiley and the comment that "I know, the point is to create something unique." :)

 

 

Finding space is obviously the problem with the straight-6. Would a TT-style inlet manifold and possibly a bonnet bulge create more clearance with both the inner wing and the exhaust manifold (and more expense, of course)?

Edited by garethr (see edit history)
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im spring loading dampers on the mounts. thats why i need the tilt degrees of the engine.

 

 

Hi marf,

 

Kudos for taking a chance on this build mate, hope it all works out well for you.

 

With regard to the engine tilt problem, what about fitting denser engine mounts along with an engine damper to minimise engine twist. Unless you fitted solid mounts there will still be a degree of engine movement but it might be achieve optimum set up within the acceptable (known) operating range of the supercharger damper springs.

 

Just a thought.

 

Best of luck.

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Very interested in this thread mate as I went for a different route when I supercharged my Skyline. Was the first in the country and everyone told me that a 2.0 sohc rb20e engine was useless to do anything with etc etc and well I got it all up and running for 400 euro and knocked over half a second off my quarter mile time.

 

Its going to be awkward, I've been looking at S/C'ing my Manual SZ too but using a smaller charger just more for a bit more power (maybe 50-70bhp or so) just for when I bring it out on track and for reliabilty reasons too. I noticed my eaton charger was actually not that bad regarding heat at 0.5 bar. I didn't even need my intercooler but I still used it regardless as its the way I had it plumbed. A few things I'd recomend though...

 

Whatever you do make sure the charger is bolted to the engine itself, preferably the block as the engine with rock left to right under acceloration and what will happen is the belt with either slip or snap. Its very hard to get the belt perfect. Mine looked bang on straight and It still slipped sometimes at high rpm

 

Make sure you've got a big enough bov or even a bypass valve if possible. The one I had was too small and when I layed off throttle at high RPM the charger used to stall as the air didn't empty out quick enough and it chewed through belts every 800kms.

 

I haven't looked at my supras fueling system properly as I only have it a month or so. But I found it was easier to just use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and the charger instead of all these extras. You'd be suprised what the engine is capable of with the standard bits. My mate had a e36 318is with a simular charger to mine and we fitted it and a adjustable reg and it was great. Car produced 207bhp too :D

 

Keep us updated with the pictures anyway, I look forward to seeing how this goes :D

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Hence the smiley and the comment that "I know, the point is to create something unique." :)

 

 

Finding space is obviously the problem with the straight-6. Would a TT-style inlet manifold and possibly a bonnet bulge create more clearance with both the inner wing and the exhaust manifold (and more expense, of course)?

 

yer at the moment if i top mount it, to get the clearance i would need a 19" scoop. if i use the TT manifold it only drops to 16", still a bif old lump to look at. i dont htink it willl look right

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Hi marf,

 

Kudos for taking a chance on this build mate, hope it all works out well for you.

 

With regard to the engine tilt problem, what about fitting denser engine mounts along with an engine damper to minimise engine twist. Unless you fitted solid mounts there will still be a degree of engine movement but it might be achieve optimum set up within the acceptable (known) operating range of the supercharger damper springs.

 

Just a thought.

 

Best of luck.

 

 

yer i did think about fitting all that but then it pushes the cost of the project up, and then where does it end lol. thanks for your support though bud, ;)

 

 

Very interested in this thread mate as I went for a different route when I supercharged my Skyline. Was the first in the country and everyone told me that a 2.0 sohc rb20e engine was useless to do anything with etc etc and well I got it all up and running for 400 euro and knocked over half a second off my quarter mile time.

 

Its going to be awkward, I've been looking at S/C'ing my Manual SZ too but using a smaller charger just more for a bit more power (maybe 50-70bhp or so) just for when I bring it out on track and for reliabilty reasons too. I noticed my eaton charger was actually not that bad regarding heat at 0.5 bar. I didn't even need my intercooler but I still used it regardless as its the way I had it plumbed. A few things I'd recomend though...

 

Whatever you do make sure the charger is bolted to the engine itself, preferably the block as the engine with rock left to right under acceloration and what will happen is the belt with either slip or snap. Its very hard to get the belt perfect. Mine looked bang on straight and It still slipped sometimes at high rpm

 

Make sure you've got a big enough bov or even a bypass valve if possible. The one I had was too small and when I layed off throttle at high RPM the charger used to stall as the air didn't empty out quick enough and it chewed through belts every 800kms.

 

I haven't looked at my supras fueling system properly as I only have it a month or so. But I found it was easier to just use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and the charger instead of all these extras. You'd be suprised what the engine is capable of with the standard bits. My mate had a e36 318is with a simular charger to mine and we fitted it and a adjustable reg and it was great. Car produced 207bhp too :D

 

Keep us updated with the pictures anyway, I look forward to seeing how this goes :D

 

thanks bud, may have a chat about ur skyline at a meet ;)

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Hi marf,

 

Kudos for taking a chance on this build mate, hope it all works out well for you.

 

With regard to the engine tilt problem, what about fitting denser engine mounts along with an engine damper to minimise engine twist. Unless you fitted solid mounts there will still be a degree of engine movement but it might be achieve optimum set up within the acceptable (known) operating range of the supercharger damper springs.

 

Just a thought.

 

Best of luck.

 

i have now decided to put solid mounts on, and spring mount the charger, gonna be a lot easyer and im installing a second idler to take a bit away. also speaking to gates and they can make a stronger belt for me :D

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i have now decided to put solid mounts on, and spring mount the charger, gonna be a lot easyer and im installing a second idler to take a bit away. also speaking to gates and they can make a stronger belt for me :D

 

Where are you going to get solid mount's from?

:)

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Get more pics up man, I just fitted my new walbro fuel pump and ordered my adjustable fuel regulator for mine. I've decided to go a different route to yourself. Heres a pic of what I'm doing with mine

 

 

image

image

 

Basically I'm going to swap a Sc14 from a 1GGZE to the location the aircon pump is in my 2JZGE. Mounts look simuilar and it seems to be a good location.

 

I'm not going to quite the extreme gain your looking for but It'll be interesting to see how yours turns out. I'm going to try to get to a meet in the UK some time towards the end of the summer so if the car is running I look forward to seeing it:d

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Get more pics up man, I just fitted my new walbro fuel pump and ordered my adjustable fuel regulator for mine. I've decided to go a different route to yourself. Heres a pic of what I'm doing with mine

 

 

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm73/kearney-skyline/1GGZEU.jpg

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm73/kearney-skyline/IMG_0143yt.jpg

 

Basically I'm going to swap a Sc14 from a 1GGZE to the location the aircon pump is in my 2JZGE. Mounts look simuilar and it seems to be a good location.

 

I'm not going to quite the extreme gain your looking for but It'll be interesting to see how yours turns out. I'm going to try to get to a meet in the UK some time towards the end of the summer so if the car is running I look forward to seeing it:d

 

well done bud :) looks good. yer at the moment im spending time fabricating everything, got the pump and e-manage in already, once the supercharger has been mounted and runs ok then ill fit the injectors etc etc etc. should be fully mounted by end of next week (depending on how long it takes me to make the engine mounts ). will have to meet and see the diference :) but defo good luck

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well done bud :) looks good. yer at the moment im spending time fabricating everything, got the pump and e-manage in already, once the supercharger has been mounted and runs ok then ill fit the injectors etc etc etc. should be fully mounted by end of next week (depending on how long it takes me to make the engine mounts ). will have to meet and see the diference :) but defo good luck

 

You fitted the emanage already? whats it running like with it in? How much did you pay for it?

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You fitted the emanage already? whats it running like with it in? How much did you pay for it?

 

its fitted but i can only run the engine ofr a few minutes as the rad is out and all intake pipeing is off oh and a few studs out the exhaust manifold, but yer it runs ok on the "0" base map, shouldnt run any different till tuned :) im still gonna trailer it to AFR just incase though. ill let you know in more detail when its tuned if you like

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Am I missing something here? Engine mounts are made with flexibility to prevent the engine mounts ripping out of the chassis its mounted to aren't they? How do you prevent chassis damage with solid mounts? I like the mounting of the one on post 88. Its the only realistic place I'd envisaged it fitting. Its been said elsewhere but there is an altezza 300 kit with the vvti engine available. Wonder if anyone knows anyone thats driven one? Also wonder where they mounted it? Would there not be more room on that side if you took the distributor out and used coil packs?

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Am I missing something here? Engine mounts are made with flexibility to prevent the engine mounts ripping out of the chassis its mounted to aren't they? How do you prevent chassis damage with solid mounts? I like the mounting of the one on post 88. Its the only realistic place I'd envisaged it fitting. Its been said elsewhere but there is an altezza 300 kit with the vvti engine available. Wonder if anyone knows anyone thats driven one? Also wonder where they mounted it? Would there not be more room on that side if you took the distributor out and used coil packs?

 

Probably wrong. But are the flexi ones there for comfort as well as Saving the engine twisting the chassis fixings. The more solid they are the quicker response to the rear wheels, Or in this case zero engine wobble.

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Yeah but the vibration from the engine and the twist has to go somewhere. If you bolt it through the existing setup without any strengthening how long can you expect it to last before bolt holes elongate and bolts start to wear through? The engineering design for them mounts will be with flexible mounts. If you beef the area up you'll just move the problem elsewhere. I work on helicopters where vibration is a big issue. The back end of our aircraft cracks all the time. When we beef the cracked area up it cracks around the repairs. Keep beefing and eventually it will crack back in the initial repair area. Dedicated track cars and the odd mile here and there with regular mount changes and torque checks will give some calendar time to it but no solution for a daily running car.

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Yeah but the vibration from the engine and the twist has to go somewhere. If you bolt it through the existing setup without any strengthening how long can you expect it to last before bolt holes elongate and bolts start to wear through? The engineering design for them mounts will be with flexible mounts. If you beef the area up you'll just move the problem elsewhere. I work on helicopters where vibration is a big issue. The back end of our aircraft cracks all the time. When we beef the cracked area up it cracks around the repairs. Keep beefing and eventually it will crack back in the initial repair area. Dedicated track cars and the odd mile here and there with regular mount changes and torque checks will give some calendar time to it but no solution for a daily running car.

 

Agreed! i personally think the setup he is planning to run won't last for very long, due to the reasons you have already mentioned, and also belt stress and alignment problems from the floating/spring loaded charger he is planning to use.

However he is convinced he can make it work, so who are we to stand in the way of progress.:Popcorn:

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Am I missing something here? Engine mounts are made with flexibility to prevent the engine mounts ripping out of the chassis its mounted to aren't they? How do you prevent chassis damage with solid mounts? I like the mounting of the one on post 88. Its the only realistic place I'd envisaged it fitting. Its been said elsewhere but there is an altezza 300 kit with the vvti engine available. Wonder if anyone knows anyone thats driven one? Also wonder where they mounted it? Would there not be more room on that side if you took the distributor out and used coil packs?

 

Probably wrong. But are the flexi ones there for comfort as well as Saving the engine twisting the chassis fixings. The more solid they are the quicker response to the rear wheels, Or in this case zero engine wobble.

 

Yeah but the vibration from the engine and the twist has to go somewhere. If you bolt it through the existing setup without any strengthening how long can you expect it to last before bolt holes elongate and bolts start to wear through? The engineering design for them mounts will be with flexible mounts. If you beef the area up you'll just move the problem elsewhere. I work on helicopters where vibration is a big issue. The back end of our aircraft cracks all the time. When we beef the cracked area up it cracks around the repairs. Keep beefing and eventually it will crack back in the initial repair area. Dedicated track cars and the odd mile here and there with regular mount changes and torque checks will give some calendar time to it but no solution for a daily running car.

 

Agreed! i personally think the setup he is planning to run won't last for very long, due to the reasons you have already mentioned, and also belt stress and alignment problems from the floating/spring loaded charger he is planning to use.

However he is convinced he can make it work, so who are we to stand in the way of progress.:Popcorn:

 

if your running 1000bhp through them then yes they wont last long without strengthening the chassis.

 

im not really gonna discuss much anymore guys, everyone seems to think neg, soooo lets see how it comes off yer ;) and you keep discussing as you will :wave:

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its fitted but i can only run the engine ofr a few minutes as the rad is out and all intake pipeing is off oh and a few studs out the exhaust manifold, but yer it runs ok on the "0" base map, shouldnt run any different till tuned :) im still gonna trailer it to AFR just incase though. ill let you know in more detail when its tuned if you like

 

Nice one :D where did you get the emanage??

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Nice one :D where did you get the emanage??

 

 

got it on ebay, from usa, was fitted to a 200sx, so just runa fresh map after taking off the harness with it and swapping injector 5 & 6 wire to the right location, was a good deal £200 basicly for

 

e-manage

200sx plug and play harness

greedy e-01

greedy boost sensor

greedy boost solenoid

cables

 

all but the e-manage is on ebay to get my money back :D

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