Tee from China Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Hi Ed, have you got all the trimmed stuff back from Gibsons yet? dying to see what magic Vinnie has done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 8, 2010 Author Share Posted April 8, 2010 Hi Ed, have you got all the trimmed stuff back from Gibsons yet? dying to see what magic Vinnie has done Well, everything is trimmed and most of it is with me. Only the doorcards remain at Vince's place and they're done too. Not seen them yet but he reckons they're some of his best work. Anyway, a few fitting issues have popped up so I'm gonna drop the car down to him as soon as I've sorted the clutch and a few other jobs. I can't wait to have it looking like a car again inside. Oh, and there is a little something extra happening but that I'll keep for the pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkR Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Well, everything is trimmed and most of it is with me. Only the doorcards remain at Vince's place and they're done too. Not seen them yet but he reckons they're some of his best work. Anyway, a few fitting issues have popped up so I'm gonna drop the car down to him as soon as I've sorted the clutch and a few other jobs. I can't wait to have it looking like a car again inside. Oh, and there is a little something extra happening but that I'll keep for the pics You big tease Hurry up!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 What's up with the clutch Ed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 8, 2010 Author Share Posted April 8, 2010 What's up with the clutch Ed? Well, nothing up as such. Tried bleeding the bearing and all is working, but the piston seems to have 'moved' further back from the clutch fingers, oddly? I remember shimming it properly so there was only enough room for the required feeler gauge gap, but now there's a huge gap. As a result, the clutch pedal is right at the bottom of travel before you get any resistance, so I'm thinking I'll have to remove the 'box and add some shims (as I recall there's about 10mm or so to make up!). Unless I made a huge error in the retainer measurements, I'm not sure whats happened. Very weird and somewhat annoying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 The clutch master cylinder *should* push the slave out more on each pump of the pedal until contact with the release fingers is made, or the piston pops out, the slave piston shouldn't retract back again more than a few thou. Still shouldn't be a huge gap, but short of the piston coming out of the concentric slave it should work. If the master cylinder had a blocked fluid transfer hole in it it would do as you are saying. Odd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 8, 2010 Author Share Posted April 8, 2010 The clutch master cylinder *should* push the slave out more on each pump of the pedal until contact with the release fingers is made, or the piston pops out, the slave piston shouldn't retract back again more than a few thou. Still shouldn't be a huge gap, but short of the piston coming out of the concentric slave it should work. If the master cylinder had a blocked fluid transfer hole in it it would do as you are saying. Odd Very odd. I thought maybe I needed a different master cylinder, but then not, as the piston is moving a lot, enough to work the clutch I think. I still need to bleed it out a bit, so I'll have another go there first before I dismantle it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Lever the slave piston (bearing) fully back into its bore and jam it there whilst you bleed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 9, 2010 Author Share Posted April 9, 2010 Right you are, I'll give that a go on sunday. Thanks for the tip Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 Elation from initial start up of the engine has now descended into a new low - I have a mysterious oil leak Spent 3 hours today trying to find where its coming from. Very hard to see due to lots of stuff in the way, but it appears to be a very slow drip coming from the sump. I couldn't see anything coming from the block and there's no apparent oil above the sump level. All the bolts seem tight, but I need some different sockets/tools in order to get in there and be certain. I'm hoping thats all it is. I started the engine to see if it got worse under pressure but there was nothing initially, only when I turned it off and got back under did I see it start to drip very very slowly. Also, the oil light went off after start up, but had come back on when I went to turn the engine off. The orange oil level indicator had come back on even though there was plenty of oil in it (I'd topped it up and checked the level before starting). Hmm..? With regard to the clutch issue, I think I've cocked up on the measurements for the clutch retainer plate (CW, you'll know what I mean here). I was thinking about it today, re-tracing what I did, etc, and I don't think I fully tightened the clutch plate when I measured. Therefore, the clutch fingers have moved back a bit after all the bolts have been properly torqued, and thats why the bearing is so far away from them now. What a numpty mistake, but at least I know what's up. At least I think thats what it is. I'll have a spacer made if so to make up the difference, but it will mean a gearbox off job. The word 'bugger' seems to sum up today nicely. I just hope I don't need to take the engine out in order to find/sort this bloody leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 If ever need an extra pair of hands, just shout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 These things are typical of a new build, and strengthen one's personality If the cover bolts weren't fully tightened the fingers would indeed be a lot nearer the gearbox... Oil pressure warning lights on when an engine is running are never a good sign, that is a bit worrying. Could the oil pressure switch be leaking? Is it a new one? Toyota switches can leak... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 If ever need an extra pair of hands, just shout. Thanks Gav, may well do, cheers These things are typical of a new build, and strengthen one's personality If the cover bolts weren't fully tightened the fingers would indeed be a lot nearer the gearbox... Oil pressure warning lights on when an engine is running are never a good sign, that is a bit worrying. Could the oil pressure switch be leaking? Is it a new one? Toyota switches can leak... Yep, you're right there. What doesn't kill you and all that. I can't believe I didn't fully tighten the bolts on the cover plate and I also can't believe that I didn't have the engine test run as soon a I got it. 20/20 hindsight eh? As for the warning light, it is worrying. The pressure switch is one Lyndon had lying around so not new, but its not leaking either, or do you mean leaking pressure? Could be I suppose...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 No, not leaking pressure. Any external leak substantial enough to drop oil PRESSURE would be like a geyser, you'd definitely know about it. If it were mine I wouldn't start it again until I had a known good mechanical oil pressure gauge plumbed in. Sykes Pickavant and the like do universal test kits, but for a one off test I would buy a decent mechanical oil gauge, a hose kit and the right adaptor to go in where the current oil warning light switch is, in its place. You are now going to tell me it's all but impossible to get at, aren't you ? Bear in mind a leak on the SUCTION side of the pump won't be visible externally, will give terrible or even zero oil pressure, and can do damage in seconds. Has the engine had any mods or changes or fiddling with the oil strainer pick up due to sump alterations or swaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 Yeah of course it would be p***ing out wouldn't it. Thats the irritating thing, its a very very slow drip from nowhere in particular. I'll test the pressure as you say, and actually its right in the front by the sandwich plate, phew something to smile about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Raceparts UK or Demon Tweeks will have everything you need to make up a decent temporary tester on the shelf. A permanently fitted oil pressure gauge would be no bad thing either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 Great, thanks for that. I was thinking about installing an oil pressure gauge as its nice to have. Oh, by the way, I just sheared off one of the sump bolt heads while attempting to ensure they were all nice and tight. I have all the luck, me. Gonna drain the oil and turn my attention back to the clutch. I've looked at the gap again and its not as big as 10mm. I'll measure it properly, remove the 'box and I think I can install some more shims behind the piston to make up the difference. We'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 15, 2010 Author Share Posted April 15, 2010 A mini triumph today. Managed to get back to square one by removing the offending sheared bolt from the engine. I drilled a pilot hole in the stud with a new 2mm bit and then used a stud extraction tool. Worked a treat Thats all I did today as I wanted to end on a relative high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 Well done, but next time keep working longer and have some mephadrone when you finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 15, 2010 Author Share Posted April 15, 2010 I'm gonna need some at this rate. Its a cheaper hobby too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 Small update - Sorted a temporary oil pressure gauge and found that I have good oil pressure at idle (1000-1100 rpm, 65-70psi) . Didn't rev the motor but just allowed it to idle for a bit to check for leaks again. No obvious signs of any leak, anywhere . I've left it for a bit now to see if any oil accumulates around the sump seal as before. More on that as and when, but I feel much happier now that I know I have good pressure. I'll install a permanent gauge inside the car to keep an eye on this. The orange oil warning light is still illuminated however, so not sure whats going on there. New issue - noticed a slight leak of petrol from the fuel rail at all four connections (where adapter screws into the rail). Spoke to Paul W and he reckons a different type of seal should do the trick, plus a bit of PTFE tape on the threads if this has not already been done. On the case with this. Also, the exhaust sounds quieter since installing proper stainless steel bungs in the O2 sensor holes. I have four places for sensors but Lyndon thinks I'll only need two, so thats sorted and will be nicer for motorway cruising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Find the wire to the switch and see if it's seeing a permanent ground with the engine running. If it is the switch is knackered. Tip, if you are going to add a permanent mechanical oil pressure gauge put an adaptor in the hole that currently holds the switch, with -3 Aeroquip to it, and put a T piece in the hose away from the engine with a switch in it, so it doesn't see engine heat and vibration. They are much more reliable like that, and easy to get at, sited sensibly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 Find the wire to the switch and see if it's seeing a permanent ground with the engine running. If it is the switch is knackered. Tip, if you are going to add a permanent mechanical oil pressure gauge put an adaptor in the hole that currently holds the switch, with -3 Aeroquip to it, and put a T piece in the hose away from the engine with a switch in it, so it doesn't see engine heat and vibration. They are much more reliable like that, and easy to get at, sited sensibly. Thanks Chris, will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 Ordered some of these for the fuel rail issue. Bit pricey but Speedflow reckon they'll do the job. If not there may be a problem with the threads on the rail. We'll see. http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/-8-stat-o-seal-511-08-404-p.asp Also, oil leak is definately from the seal around the sump pan. I'll need to remove this and replace the gasket/seal. I reckon I can do it on the car as there is enough clearance so I'm happy about that, kind of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 Been out in the garage all day trying to get around the access issues I have getting the sump off. Just can't get in there in order to cut through the existing sealant. I don't want to damage the pan mating surfaces by using screw drivers and brute force so there's nothing for it, the motor has to come out. Pain in the butt, to say the least . Ah well, while its out I'm gonna try and find a place that can bench run it and test it properly so there are no further issues (something I should have done in the first place). I want to re install it knowing that all is fine. Anyone know of such a place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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