Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Ultimate Pro street Drag supra!


StuartW
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 550
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Okay i have finally broken up and got rid of the TT Shell, Thus gained some workshop space, funds and parts!

 

I have sourced some of the following and would appreciate

Anyones thoughts before i go ahead and commit.

 

CP +0.20 Pistons Around £500 new

carillo Rods

ARP head and main bolts

Clevite bearings

 

Does anyone have experience of Eagle rods over Carillo

 

Carillo's cost around £1000 or a used set for £350?

Eagles around £350 new?

 

Any other reliable piston choices?

 

So i guess the BIG Q is has anyone tested Eagles to distruction?

 

Thoughts appreciated...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you are REALLY considering building a serious race engine and putting in some Chinese rods??? I would definitely go for branded rods, and new ones. You just don't know what over revs a rod has had bought second hand. Carrillo, Farndon, Tomei, Cosworth and Arrow all make known good rods, either custom or off the shelf. There are a lot of Eagle copies around, too, if you decided the "real" Eagle rods were worth a go.

 

It's a shame no one seems to make a forged piston for the 2JZ engines with a coolant channel in the crown, like the stock cast ones. Tomei do them for the RB series, but not the 2JZ lumps. They pull a vast amount of heat from the crowns and the ring packs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you are REALLY considering building a serious race engine and putting in some Chinese rods??? I would definitely go for branded rods, and new ones. You just don't know what over revs a rod has had bought second hand. Carrillo, Farndon, Tomei, Cosworth and Arrow all make known good rods, either custom or off the shelf. There are a lot of Eagle copies around, too, if you decided the "real" Eagle rods were worth a go.

 

 

It's a shame no one seems to make a forged piston for the 2JZ engines with a coolant channel in the crown, like the stock cast ones. Tomei do them for the RB series, but not the 2JZ lumps. They pull a vast amount of heat from the crowns and the ring packs.

 

Carillo's it is then! I really appreciate this sort of feed back...Saves Massive £££££££££'s in the long run:cool:

 

Can the channel be copied from stock and created by a really good machinist?

Can you give me a heads up list of good quality pistons please :innocent:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree Jun/Cosworth,

 

but not speaking from personal experience more of an unorthodox standpoint, would it not be better - certainly cheaper to rag an oem block to its death (depending on the power output required) each time than to build a overly expensive block thats bound to fail anyway?

 

I never was of that opinion until a member on here Robbie mentioned that his 3.2 L Jun block threw up various problems, he ran a very low time on a full weight sup, let alone a full drag car

 

You could easily spend 3-4K on exotic parts for the block alone, thats probably 8 used blocks there;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree Jun/Cosworth,

 

but not speaking from personal experience more of an unorthodox standpoint, would it not be better - certainly cheaper to rag an oem block to its death (depending on the power output required) each time than to build a overly expensive block thats bound to fail anyway?

 

I never was of that opinion until a member on here Robbie mentioned that his 3.2 L Jun block threw up various problems, he ran a very low time on a full weight sup, let alone a full drag car

 

You could easily spend 3-4K on exotic parts for the block alone, thats probably 8 used blocks there;)

 

Very good point and along the lines im thinking now, Ryan is mapping my stock engine to 2bar on race fuel friday, lets see how long that lasts;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definatly carrillo rods and I would use better pistons too. As Chris has said before the cp's and made of crapy material and the rings are generic and need fileing.

 

With the money going into the build I would use Jun/Cosworth or HKS, the Malhe pistons are very good. If you want to buy cheaper pistons then wiseco would be a better choice over cp anyday

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very good point and along the lines im thinking now, Ryan is mapping my stock engine to 2bar on race fuel friday, lets see how long that lasts;)

 

If it gets by the mapping session probably longer than you think;)

 

2Bar's a little excessive lol, but you get the jist, even with a broken block it could probably be sold on in bits anyway, so not a total loss, a good set of forged conrods would add a little reliability if need be

 

I'd love to see the results of that t67 at 2bar:d

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well i defo need a built head (ferrara valve train) all in with machine work approx £700) To allow me the revs needed to achieve 800-900hp, therefore i do not want a rod to let go and write off the head parts?

 

Also after a well serviced season of drag and track (With small NOS 60hp dynoed shot) My std engine is breathing heavily and loosing compression fast...The point being with the 2k higher revs and increased stresses i don't think i can realistically look at pushing more than 600hp tops:search:

 

Unless anyone else has a success story?

 

The car is well mapped and shows good AFR and EGT's and always has (Although maybe a little rich may have caused bore wash and premature wear?)

 

That would make a pretty sedate halfback Houser Race car!...But points of view taken on board.

Edited by StuartW (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would like to have got the water injection on before the you start running 2bar but we will see lol :)

 

All interesting and my brain is like a sponge ATM.

 

Interesting comments on the wiseco pistons.

 

Now need to think about

 

*4" Pipework from BL intercooler to Veilside TB

 

*Any thoughts on Mazure electric waterpumps? Remember i have AEM now to control it and time its running after shut off.

 

*Injectors, 1600cc is RC the only contendor?

 

*water injection kits? any good proven systems? any for sale?

Edited by StuartW (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi nothing wrong with cp pistons , afterall thats whats in the 7.7 sec Sups . I No as i build it . Yes the rings are genetic but it depends on the application so its down to personal choice i guess .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Strange Pro series Race brakes arrived 11 1/4" Rotors the whole set up weighs 33Lbs!

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=84946&d=1232210470

attachment.php?attachmentid=84949&d=1232210470

 

 

100mm Throttle body with TPS fitted

Mazuire electric pump

TRD Engine mounts

 

The Head has gone off for machine work to accommodate full ferrera valve train inc dual springs.

The Block is being bored for the Wiseco 86.5mm Pistons

All Plexi glass and door trims are in and finished

Really stonkin on now...

041220081531.jpg

041220081534.jpg

041220081532.jpg

041220081533.jpg

041220081536.jpg

041220081540.jpg

041220081538.jpg

041220081539.jpg

041220081541.jpg

041220081542.jpg

Edited by StuartW (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking nice Stuart, when and where is first outing planned?

 

This looks good value at £60

Santa Pod Raceway invites drivers & riders to the Peak Performance Days held on:

Saturday 4th April 2009

 

Yes Gaz if i can make that i will!

 

Fitted all the brakes on Friday, Had to machine the spacers from 15mm to 6mm to clear the arches as this car is slammed. This meant re spacing all the caliper brackets as well

 

Carillo H beam rods arrived today :D

 

Ryan..Hopefully i will get some pics up of the windows this week.

041220081543.jpg

041220081544.jpg

041220081547.jpg

041220081548.jpg

081220081555.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice to see you are buying quality parts for the car:)

 

Except for the ebay manifold, you will want to put lots of sealent on that manifold before you put it together.

 

Its a PITA to take it on/off with the engine in so get it on right the first time with the engine out. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Except for the ebay manifold, you will want to put lots of sealent on that manifold before you put it together.

 

Its a PITA to take it on/off with the engine in so get it on right the first time with the engine out. ;)

 

cheers for that, is there a easier mani to access?

 

The faces will be milled and carefully checked before assembly and leak tested regularly;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.