DaveSupTT Posted October 27, 2008 Author Share Posted October 27, 2008 Also getting new Plugs (NGK race ones for BPU) and a new thermostat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted November 9, 2008 Author Share Posted November 9, 2008 Few more pics from Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted November 14, 2008 Author Share Posted November 14, 2008 Hopefully it wont be to long now till I get my engine back in good working order! Spoke to Chris the other day and all the valves need re skimming as they were rather damaged as they were running with not enough clearence - if Chris is around he might add a few words to explain it better. But basically the valves will of not been able to close properly, and there for loosing power and also a lot of heat was being generated which would explain why they looked burnt. The head casting wouldnt come any cleaner than it has, and Chris has tried steam cleaning with detergent and solvents but still no look. From working on it, it appears that over time, the engine has probably been run on cheap oil, with no regular oil changes. But slowley, everything is getting sorted!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dash Rendar Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 It had oil changes at least every 5K when I had it (and decent oil too), but that was only for about 2 years of its live. (And I didn't do many miles at all.) I couldn't tell you about the history before I bought it though. That's good news that everything's nearly ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 The original cams were scored on the bearing journals so david and I agreed to fit some good used cams i had. I reground all the valves, repalced 3 altogeter. With the "new" cams none of the valves had more than 3 thou clearance. This is odd, grinding them in wouldn't close them up that much, and normally the base circles on stock cams are to within a thou or so. So i fitted the original cams, and still the clearances were tiny. I have to assume that the engine has been run previously with hardly any valve clearance... All 24 shims now need surface grinding to size, a slow, PITA job. Otherwise everything should be AOK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted November 14, 2008 Author Share Posted November 14, 2008 Cheers for that Chris! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luka-P Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 What metal are the shims? Just thinking if they would stick to the magnetic charge on the grinder as they look very stainless. Possibly just very shiney. How much is coming off them? I can see it taking a while! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 They are case hardened steel, I have done loads and the stay on the magnetic table fine, but, yes, they take ages to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 They are case hardened steel, I have done loads and the stay on the magnetic table fine, but, yes, they take ages to do What is the case thickness? (How much can be ground safely?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 It's usually about a mm, so grinding should be fine. How much are new shims from Mr T? If it's that slow and painful a job, it may well be cheaper to just buy the correct than pay for Chris's time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 What metal are the shims? Just thinking if they would stick to the magnetic charge on the grinder as they look very stainless. Possibly just very shiney. How much is coming off them? I can see it taking a while! It could be something like EN57 which is magnetic, but is still classed as a "stainless steel" because it's a steel alloy with a chromium content above some amount (I think it's 10 or 15% but I can't remember) They're fairly small diameter, so a decent surface grinder should lick whatever needs to come off them in a fairly short time I would have thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Toyota never seem to have many, if any in stock, it's easier to just grind my own. I suspect, given their thickness, they are through hardened. I only grind one face, the face that sits in the follower, so that face isn't subject to wear anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted November 24, 2008 Author Share Posted November 24, 2008 As I am going along, I am wanting to replace a lot of the hoses. Does anyone know of a good place to get such things from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 I'm sure Chris will agree - Toyota Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Toyota never seem to have many, if any in stock, it's easier to just grind my own. I suspect, given their thickness, they are through hardened. I only grind one face, the face that sits in the follower, so that face isn't subject to wear anyway. I bought a load recently, they had to order a couple but they were there inside a week. They are quite expensive though, can't remember exactly but I think they are about a fiver each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 I strongly recommend that you DO NOT use the blue silicone hose for anything other than the rad hoses. The small bore stuff available to mere mortals is not linered, and any split will propagate along it. It also pops off easily as it's silicone, and slippery. If, as the salesmen are won't to tell you, it's better than "rubber" hoses, and given it's less than a third of the price of "rubber" hose, doesn't anyone wonder why no car makers use it for air and vac applications in unlinered form? Use either genuine Toyota hoses, or, if it can be made from straight hose off the reel, then Gates make a decent product. Small bore silicone hose can be bought with a mesh liner, but it's very hard to find, and very expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 The problem is that even though you mention Gates, actually getting hold of the stuff is a nightmare! I don't know if you know someone on the inside Chris, but I spent hours and hours trying to find someone who actually distributed their products here in the UK. In the end I gave up and begrudgingly bought some silicone stuff. Which kept slipping off and was rubbish. Who's your supplier??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luka-P Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Lol an insider. Has engine building and tuning gone to the underworld level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 http://www.gates.com/europe/brochure.cfm?brochure=2347&location_id=3711 The RLC range is probably of the most significance here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Yeah, I found the Gates website pretty easily. However, I'm looking for a distributor.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 I think Trident Racing at Silverstone sells it. Or if you can't find anyone local use Wurth hose, that's available everywhere, and is also top quality Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 6, 2009 Author Share Posted August 6, 2009 (edited) Long Overdue Update! Well guys, it’s been a LONG time since I have written in this thread, and lots of things have gone on in the mean time! I will go into more detail at a later stage (hopefully not another year on) but for now ill just summarise what’s gone on. As a few of you know, in the end I decided to take the head and block down to Chris and he has done a complete rebuild. The head was skimmed, and block was bored and honed to fit the Wiseco pistons. Chris fitted new rods, all seals and gaskets replaced, new valves (correctly seated), absolutely everything you can think off. The crack was also rebalanced. I have replaced every silicone hose under the engine, and all worn hoses and pipes replaced using genuine Toyota parts. Every bolt, nut, washer and connector (that required it) has been replaced, again with genuine Toyota parts. I have also replaced all gaskets with new ones, including for the turbots. Included in my rebuild I have replaced many other parts such as the crank pulley, water pump, oil pump, and new belts. I have also fitted an AEM AFR gauge, new Chris Wilson restrictor ring. Every single pipe has been cleaned, intercooler has been cleaned (was full of oil). Lots of things were missing (and not due to being misplaced, they were NEVER THERE ) including several bolts, turbo stays and a few other bits and pieces. This list is endless lol, and it’s been so long I can’t recall everything. All though my FOLDER of receipts is helping me remember things All new fluids have been replaced, as you would expect! Basically, this car has a new engine with everything to go with it! So, where am I up to now? Almost everything is back together and in the car. Just for those that may want to know, I fitted the transmission to the engine and fitted it all as one unit! It is very tight and you have to be careful not to squash any pipes but it can be done. Left to fit I just have the turbo pipes to put on, and the exhaust to fully connect up, put apart from that there is not much else left to do before I get to turn the key and see what happens! fingers crossed. I have done a few checks up to now; 1) While the engine was on the stand, I lashed up the starter motor to turn the engine over, obviously putting oil in the engine first. Everything was okay. 2) I checked the oil was being pumped around by using a test circuit to monitor the output of the oil pressure switch. 3) I have checked all the wiring for anything visibly obvious, and checked electrics as far as possible. Some bits have required re wiring as they were cr*p! 4) Checked fuel system, and the fuel pressure is reading 40psi and is being pumped appropriately. 5) Checked ignition circuit to spark plugs and all is working fine. Problems: So far, touch wood, I have only come across 1 problem and im sure its nothing major. When I have turned the key to the ignition position, during testing stages, when I turn it back to the off position I cant take my key out! To do so, I have to remove the battery terminal! Any ideas of what’s going on? So guys, im sorry it’s been a long time in updating this thread, and if anyone has any questions feel free to fire away. Hopefully I will have the car back on the road sometime soon! My questions. Is there anything else I need to check before I fire her up for the first time? Does anyone have any idea as to why I can’t remove my key from the ignition without removing the battery terminal? I have tried messing with the alarm/immobiliser but no luck there? Thanks for reading and for everyone that has help me! Dave Edited August 6, 2009 by DaveSupTT (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 7, 2009 Author Share Posted August 7, 2009 Morning Bump, for anyone that may be able to shed light on my questions above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 Are/were you auto Dave? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 im with Rob sounds like the Auto box inhibitor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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