DaveSupTT Posted September 4, 2008 Author Share Posted September 4, 2008 Just about to take cylinder head off but manual states that I need a 10mm bi-hexagonal wrench which I don't have and I can't find at normal retailers, Halfords etc. Anyone got any idea where I might get one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd-mkiv Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 (edited) I have a drapher set that comes in a steel box with tork bits and allen key sets simular to this (spelling crap on all of what ive wrote) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PRO-15pc-METRIC-HEX-ALLEN-KEY-1-2-SOCKETS-BITS-CRV-SET_W0QQitemZ120299879992QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item120299879992&_trkparms=72%3A985%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 Edited September 4, 2008 by johnd-mkiv (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 Just use a 10mm allen key socket, it'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luka-P Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 Isn't Bi-Hex just a normal socket but with ridges, not flats. Halfrauds are never any help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevie Boy Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 Isn't Bi-Hex just a normal socket but with ridges, not flats. Halfrauds are never any help That's what i was thinking, double hex instead of a single hex metric 10mm socket. What bolts/nuts it to be used on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd-mkiv Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 This is the set I have that will do it, also comes in handy for a lot of other jobs on the supra http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DRAPER-21932-40-PCE-MECHANICS-BIT-SET-HEX-TORX-SPLINE_W0QQitemZ290257535493QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item290257535493&_trkparms=72%3A985%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 Halfords are indeed a help, since their professional sockets are all bi-hex! In any case the head bolts have a female bi-hex in them, so you don't use a socket, you use an allen key. You can't use a normal hex socket on a bihex bolt, but a normal hex allen key will fit in a female bihex as found on the head bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted September 7, 2008 Author Share Posted September 7, 2008 Thanks for the advice, I successfully used a 10mm Hex drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 really? and there was me thinking you were away Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted September 13, 2008 Author Share Posted September 13, 2008 really? and there was me thinking you were away Mike LOL im everywhere Mike Not looking forward to going back to work on Monday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted September 13, 2008 Author Share Posted September 13, 2008 Okay wel im looking for a fiar bit of advise here and I have got some technical questions I need asnwering as as well! So, Mr Wilson if your about and got a free minute or too........ Anyone else for that matter as well!! Questions! 1) Having removed pistons and found rings broke on 1,2 & 3 I checked the bore of each piston using a calibrated optical bore gauge. The results shown below: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted September 13, 2008 Author Share Posted September 13, 2008 (edited) The manual states that the max diam allowable is 86.02 and as you can see @ 10mm from top in thrust direction all pistons are above tolerance. Having said that 0.03mm (amount oustide tolerance) equals 0.00118 ie just over one thousanth of an inch! To me that doesnt seem to be much and certainly apart from piston 3 all the others measured near 180p.s.i. when I did the compression test and number 3 bore doesnt seem to be any worse than the others. I really need an experienced opinion to give me a view whether I need a re-bore or not. Just to add, there doesnt seem to be any scratches or gouges. And if I do, who would you send it to? Question 2 I would like a view on the following; 1) Should I replace big end bearing shells? 2) Should I remove crank and replace main bearing shells? 3) Should I replace pistons with better than standard? 4) I asked in a previous thread what things would you replace while the engine is out of the car? The results were aux belt tensioner alternator water pump cam belt Oil pump Re shell it ie New bearing shells. Main bearings, con rod bearings and thrust washers New rod bolts All new seals and gaskets and O rings Is there anything else I should consider? 5) Does anyone know where I can get various bolts to replace either missing or damaged ones. They are all metric fine (1mm, 1.25mm or 1.5mm pitch) and I cannot find anywhere that stocks them. 6) The engine sump was sealed with flange sealant rather than a gasket. I have some Loctite 5920 premium Gasket Silicone, will this be okay? Thanks guys. Edited September 13, 2008 by DaveSupTT (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steb9780 Posted September 13, 2008 Share Posted September 13, 2008 Dave what is an optical bore gauge? Have you got a picture of one. I don't know much about boring engines, but those holes at work would not be aloud due to the ovality. And generally there is a bush either freeze fitted into our bores or loctited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 REBORE definitely Remove crank, have checked for straightness, wear et cetera. have micro polished if OK New main, big end and thrust bearings, new oil pump, new crank cambelt sprocket. All new seals. That should do the bottom end. Your choice for pistons, stock are fine for mild power, forged much preferable for modded engines. I like JUN (Cosworth) pistons, but they cost. Wiseco are a good cheaper alternative. I don't like CP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 Dave what is an optical bore gauge? Have you got a picture of one. I don't know much about boring engines, but those holes at work would not be aloud due to the ovality. And generally there is a bush either freeze fitted into our bores or loctited. Sorry mate, I cant take a pic as my dad borrowed it from work and its gone back now. REBORE definitely Remove crank, have checked for straightness, wear et cetera. have micro polished if OK New main, big end and thrust bearings, new oil pump, new crank cambelt sprocket. All new seals. That should do the bottom end. Your choice for pistons, stock are fine for mild power, forged much preferable for modded engines. I like JUN (Cosworth) pistons, but they cost. Wiseco are a good cheaper alternative. I don't like CP. Cheers Chris, Okay im going to get it rebored. Can you do this Chris, or if not do you know where I am best sending it to? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 REBORE definitely Your choice for pistons, stock are fine for mild power, forged much preferable for modded engines. I like JUN (Cosworth) pistons, but they cost. Wiseco are a good cheaper alternative. I don't like CP. Unfortunately you can only get stock pistons in the stock size. So if you bore it out 0.5mm you have to go aftermarket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luka-P Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 CP are good price wise and some package deals can be found with rods also. You're basically going to find that you get what you pay for. A good auto engineering place should be able to get the work done for you. I'd recommend giving them the crank, connecting rods and head and they can check, clean and work on them accordingly. As Chris said, new shells, gaskets, oil pump etc to give you a bit more peace of mind. If you're having a rebore I'd give the machine shop the pistons/rings so they can work with them whilst boring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Unfortunately you can only get stock pistons in the stock size. So if you bore it out 0.5mm you have to go aftermarket. You sure? I feel this may not be the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Simon is right, no oversize stock pistons from Toyota. I used Wiseco when I rebuilt mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 How much do they bore it out by, and what size are the after market pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luka-P Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 There are various sizes mate. You really need to get it checked out to see how much wants boring out, then you get the best size piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 Cheers Bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steb9780 Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Sorry mate, I cant take a pic as my dad borrowed it from work and its gone back now. No I was just wondering what the "optical" bit was about. We use digital bore micrometers at work. The optical ones we have are old hat, but they're not digital, you hold them upto the light and it shows up a vernier scale to measure. Just wondering if there was a newer optical style gauge with digital readout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 Its how you described it above with a vernier scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steb9780 Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Its how you described it above with a vernier scale. How many prongs did it have? 3 or 2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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