DaveSupTT Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 Unfortunatly im not flush or anywhere close to being so so id like to keep the cost down as much as possible, but I also dont want to cut corners. I dont want to be having to rebuild or touch the engine again after all this! What im after is a nice strong reliable car! So if things need doing in order to ensure that, i'd prefer to do stuff while the engine is out. Unless, I can get to stuff easily enough when the engine is back in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Sorry, I can't remember why I thought the engine might see such high boost, it was some time ago! I'd either leave it on a stock ECU and run 1.1 / 1.2 bar maximum boost contrlled by throttling the exhaust flow, or put a mappable ecu in it and bigger injectors and risk pushing the turbos harder, if you are feeling brave. I'll try and read the whole sage later, but I think the answer will be the same Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 (edited) Cheers for your input Chris. To be honest, I think ill take the safe option and stick to 1.2, and try and make sure it doesnt go above! Edited August 6, 2008 by DaveSupTT (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 Okay guys, I have a couple of questions for you, hopefully some one can give me some advise. Q1. One of the last things I need to disconnect before removing the engine is the drive shaft. The explanation in the manual requires use of various SST and infers some special set up when re-installed to ensure proper alignment. If anyone has removed the prop shaft can you give me the benefit of your experience. Q2. Once i've removed the engine with transmission intact, can I still use the bell housing to locate and fix the unit to the engine mount or do I have to disconnect the transmission from the engine block first? I think this will be the case but if someone could verify and give their input i'd appreciate it. Regards Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 Also, just to update on the last few post regarding a smaller restictor ring - my current one has a diameter of approx 53mm. Does this sound about right prevent boosting over 1.2bar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 What are you using to lift the engine and box out as a unit? Unless it's a serious industrial quality engine hoist you are better splitting the engine and box and removing them separately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 I am going to rent an engine crane which is up to 1 tonne. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 That should cope, but for the home mechanic I'd say splitting the units will make things MUCH easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 Ok cheers Chris. Does anyone have an answer to my 1st question in post 54? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 4 nuts hold it to the gearbox output flange, and 3 nuts and bolts hold it to the diff input doughnut, 2 bolts hold the centre support bearing plate up to the bodyshell. Be aware of 2 thick spacer washers between the centre bearing support plate and the bodyshell. No special tools needed at all. So long as you don't split the front and back halves there's no need to mark anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 9, 2008 Author Share Posted August 9, 2008 Thanks again for your help Chris, its appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 9, 2008 Share Posted August 9, 2008 Thanks again for your help Chris, its appreciated No worries, the invoice will be with you next week, 14 days only please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 9, 2008 Author Share Posted August 9, 2008 haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 10, 2008 Author Share Posted August 10, 2008 Update: I have now removed the drive shaft! And what a PITA it was. The bolts were pretty much welded on lol. However, they were not as bad as the bolts on the silencer were! I had to hacksaw them off!!! So, all in all, not made as much progress as we hoped this weekend, but now that thats disconected, Im almost ready to hire the crane! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 Which bolts? Never had any issues with propshaft nuts or bolts (Drive shafts are the ones from the diff to the rear hubs, propshaft is gearbox to diff..., you do mean the prop shaft?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 10, 2008 Author Share Posted August 10, 2008 Sorry Chris, my mistake, yep i meant the prop shaft! But to be honest, them bolts wernt too bad, it was the bolts on the silencer that I had to remove to get to the prop shaft. Now they were a pain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 16, 2008 Author Share Posted August 16, 2008 I have now removed the transmission!!! Next job is to hire the crane and take the engine out - finally!!!! (Thank god I didnt try and take the engine out with the transmission still attached, that WOULD of been a nightmare!. So cheers guys for your advise! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 23, 2008 Author Share Posted August 23, 2008 (edited) Well, finally the engine has been removed!! Question: Were just about to mount the engine on the stand, but I just wanted to check that im mounting it in the correct place. - Doesnt look like I could mount it anywhere else but I just wanted to check. Please see the pick below and if anyone can confirm that im mounting it correctly that would be great! Edited August 23, 2008 by DaveSupTT (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 23, 2008 Author Share Posted August 23, 2008 (edited) After removing the engine, I have also found another oil leak - looks like a seals gone, but will find out more as we go along. Edited August 23, 2008 by DaveSupTT (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 Looks ok, you want the fourth support on the stand bolted up as well though. Plus it's a good idea to try and get the center of the stand in the middle as it makes it easier to turn over on the stand. As for the oil leak, that looks like a leaking cam cover - quite common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 23, 2008 Author Share Posted August 23, 2008 Cheers mate, yep i'd not forgotten the 4th support Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 24, 2008 Author Share Posted August 24, 2008 (edited) Just wanted to pick all of your brains, as when I have been taking bits off around the engine, I have come to the turbos and noticed the fins on both sides are different? Im not quite sure if thats normal, I cant think why to be honest why they would be, also bear in mind that these are stage 1 hybrids. As I understand it, the internals of these hybrids are stock (J-spec) dimensions (though built with steel rather than ceramic internals) To me something doesnt look right? (see pics) Anyone have any thoughts? If they are meant to look like that, would you say they look in good condition? Cheers Turbo 1 and Turbo 2 Edited August 24, 2008 by DaveSupTT (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 24, 2008 Author Share Posted August 24, 2008 impatient bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 Its the exhaust side that are ceramic, thats the intake side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSupTT Posted August 24, 2008 Author Share Posted August 24, 2008 Ahhhhh will check the other side soon then! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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